Dump Truck CDL Class B Pre-Trip Inspection
Pre-trip inspection dump truck class b.
The Class B Commercial Driver’s License (CDL) pre-trip inspection will have approximately 80 items to be checked on a dump truck with air brakes. The number of checks will be based on the actual vehicle’s installed equipment. The following procedures/items would be the same for other Class B vehicle types (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of straight trucks weighing 26,001 lbs. or more) such as bucket trucks, garbage trucks, flatbeds, and other straight trucks.
Here is a procedural training video demonstrating the requirements and best practices to help prepare you for successfully completing the Pre-Trip Inspection portion of the CDL Class B (Dump Truck). Below the video is a line item checklist you can also use for study.
To earn your Commercial Driver’s License, you must pass a series of tests. One of the first tests is the Pre-Trip Inspection. In your working life after earning your CDL, you would actually accomplish each checklist item — physically check oil level, tire pressure, etc. But, while testing to earn your CDL, you only need to name and point to or touch each item, and fully explain to the examiner what you are inspecting (for the In-Cab portion of the Pre-Trip Inspection Test, you must physically demonstrate each item).
You are being graded to ensure you know what to check each part for, and not that you just know the names of the parts. You will have to check each item as outlined.
Whereas the checklist below is a good guide to follow, there is no specific order or sequence to the test. You just need to ensure you complete every item.
Pre-Trip Inspection Class B with Air Brakes Checklist Items
This checklist order starts in the front of the vehicle and inspects only the axles on the driver’s side of the truck. The test requires you to only inspect the driver side unless the item is only on the passenger side (parts in engine compartment, exhaust).
Front of Vehicle
- securely mounted
- not broken or cracked
- amber in color
- Clear and clean
- ensure no leaks or oil puddles
Engine Compartment
- Locate the oil dipstick
- make sure level is between add and full
- locate coolant reservoir
- ensure level is sufficient for operation, between hot and cold mark
- not leaking
- if no reservoir, verbally describe how to remove radiator cap and check coolant
- ensure level is between add and full
- must say if it is gear or belt driven
- working properly
- not damaged
- securely mounted, bolts tight
- belt driven
- belt, not cracked or frayed, and tension is between ½” and ¾”
- wire secure into back of alternator
- belt, not cracked or frayed, tension is between ½” and ¾”
- secure to engine, bolts tight
- hoses secure, not leaking
- if belt driven, belt not cracked or frayed, tension is between ½” and ¾”
- check under vehicle for oil puddles
- check engine for leaks
- check hoses for splits and cuts
- ensure all clamps are tight
- check all hoses for leaks
- make sure to check both hoses on both sides of engine for leaks
Front Truck Axle
- secure, bolts tight
- not cut, pinched or leaking
- fittings are secure not cracked or broken
- not bent, bolts tight, no cracks, cotter pins in place
- sockets are not worn or loose
- must check from steering wheel to steering box and from steering box to axle.
- none broken
- all in alignment
- not shifted
- not broke or rusted
- check front and rear mount for cracks, rust
- check for tight or missing bolts
- make sure bushings are not torn or missing
- not cracked, bend, or broke
- bolts tight
- not kinked, cut, swollen or leaking
- fittings secure
- not bent, broke or leaking
- not cracked dented, rusted or leaking
- clamp is secure, tight and in place
- pins in place holding slack adjuster to push rod
- straight, not broken
- no more than 1”adjustment (movement) on the push rod
- not bent or broken
- no holes, cracks or dents
- smooth surface
- no signs of grease or oil
- shoes are sufficient, more than ¼” pad
- no cracks, no chipped pads
- no fluid, grease or oil
- 4/32” tread depth
- no cuts or bubbles on side walls
- check top of tire for even wear and flat spots
- check pressure with gauge
- check valve stem is not cracked, broke, leaking or twisted and secured with cap
- no rust trails
- no aftermarket welds
- none missing
- no signs of rust trails
- no cracks or distortion from lug bolt holes
- no loose or missing bolts
- proper fluid level (if sight glass)
Side of Cab and Vehicle
- not cracked or broken
- door hinges are secure, bolts tight
- handle works, no damage to side
- seal is intact and not torn
- opens and closes properly
- securely mounted, brackets not damages, bolts in place
- mirror is not broke and clean
- securely mounted, bolts
- no fluid or debris on steps
- straps are secure
- cap is on tight
- must check tank & cap for leaking
- no signs of soot (leaking)
- all clamps are tight
- must check hole exhaust system from turbo to top of stack
- not peeling or cracked
Under the Vehicle
- bolts are all tight
- must also check cross members for same
- straight, no cracks, bolts are tight
- must check u-joint bolts and u-joint is free of foreign objects
Rear Truck Axle
- check front and rear mount for cracks
- not cracked
- bushing not torn or missing
- not kinked, cut, swollen
- fitting is secure
- not bent, broke
- not cracked or rusted or leaking
- no more than 1” adjustment (movement) on the push rod with brakes released (double chamber)
- no holes, cracks, or dents
- no cracked or chipped pads
- 2/32” tread depth
- check pressure with a gauge
- check valve stem is not cracked, secure, leaking or twisted and cap is in place
- none missing, not loose, no signs of rust trails
- must check there is no debris between tires
- tires are evenly spaced
- rims flush (butted) together
Rear of Vehicle
- mud flaps not torn
- no damage/ holes
- fits to the bed
- hinges are secure; bolts tight
- if equipped, seal intact; not torn
- red in color
In-Cab Compartment/Engine Start (need to demonstrate all mechanisms)
- spare fuses or breakers (whichever truck is equipped with)
- must work properly
- put on seat belt; must click secure and fit properly
- not cut, frayed or torn
- securely mounted at seat, shoulder and floor ( all points )
- After turning key to "On" position, ensure ABS light turns on and then turns off.
- After turning key to "On" position, ensure DEF light turns on and then turns off.
- on dash, check left & right turn arrow
- 4 way flashers
- high/low beam indicator
- check temperature gauge for operation and in safe range
- check voltmeter for operation and in safe range
- needle indication charging
- check oil pressure gauge for operation and in safe range
- working properly, pressure builds to 120 PSI or governor cut out or purge
- must be clean
- no cracks or chips
- no obstructions; stickers
- seal is secure with no leaks
- no stickers
- mirrors are adjusted
- operate properly (must turn on)
- rubber blades are not cracked
- good contact to windshield
- medal arms are secure, no damage
- washer fluid operates (squirts)
- blow air and electric horn
- must turn to hot and feel for air from vents
- turn on defroster to make sure they work properly
- feel for air to blow from vent at windshield
- push in clutch & make sure shifter is in neutral before starting engine
- if automatic transmission make sure vehicle is in neutral
- check parking brake by applying and putting truck in low gear and try to move (lug engine)
- must check both tractor and trailer parking brake individually
- pull forward at 5 mph and stop with foot brake
- ensure steering wheel does not pull left or right
- roll driver’s side window down (listen for leaks)
- build air pressure to ~120 PSI, governor cut-off (to purge)
- turn off engine then turn key to on position
- release parking brake, push in
- apply foot brake & keep pressure and listen , applied for 1 minute-cannot lose more than 3 pounds in 1 minute (must hold for full, timed minute)
- say that low air buzzer will come on at ~55 to 60 PSI; pump foot brake (fan) so buzzer will sound
- say that parking brake will automatically engage at approximately 20-30 PSI, continue pumping foot brake (fan) until parking brake engages.
Exterior Light Operation Check
In Florida, you may ask the examiner to assist in checking the external lights. You must tell the examiner exactly which lights they would check (headlight high and low beam; right and left turn signals; 4-Way flashers; Clearance Lights)
Remember, lights are amber in color on the front, and red in color on the rear (all lights, must say color and describe light condition)
- Lights (front of vehicle AMBER )-head lights (high & low beam), right/left turn signal, 4 way flashers, clearance, must turn on, clean, not broken, operating properly
- Lights (front side of vehicle AMBER )-right/left turn signal, put on emergency, flashers, make sure working, amber lenses, not broken, clean
- Lights (rear of vehicle RED )-right/left turn signal, put on 4 way flashers, clearance and brake lights, red lenses, not broken, clean.
Site Navigation
- SMG of Crystal River
- CDL Testing
CDL Testing and Prep
- Steps to Getting Your CDL
- Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection w/Air
- Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection w/o Air
- Dump Truck CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Class B
- Passenger Bus CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Class B
- Driver's On-road Practical Test
- Commercial Driving Behavior
- CDL Driver Control Skills Test
- Instructional Videos
All CDL Testing & Training
All SMG CDL testing and training is initiated and completed at Interstate Commercial Driving School (ICDS) located at:
SMG Contact Information:
Tel: (352)795-7170
Fax: (352)795-8723
© SMG, Inc . All Rights Reserved.
CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist
A thorough pre-trip inspection is a crucial part of a truck driver’s responsibilities. This inspection ensures the safety, functionality, and compliance of your vehicle before hitting the road. By systematically checking key components, you can identify potential issues, prevent accidents, and avoid costly breakdowns or violations.
This pre-trip inspection checklist is designed to guide you through the necessary steps to evaluate the condition of your vehicle. It covers all critical areas, including the engine compartment, brakes, tires, lights, and more. Regular adherence to this checklist not only keeps you and others safe but also helps maintain your vehicle in optimal condition, ensuring you remain in compliance with federal and state regulations.
Pre Trip Inspection Checklist
Download free and print it! Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)
There are many sections to learn but the test is not as difficult as it may seem. Studying our simplified Class-A pre-trip inspection checklist and taking classes at your local CDL training school will get you prepared.
Engine Compartment
Driver door fuel area, coupling area, light check, in-cab inspection and brake tests, belt driven alternator, belt driven water pump, brake chamber, brake lining, caste nuts and cotter pins, coolant reservoir, gear box and hoses, gear driven air compressor, gear driven power steering pump.
- General Hoses
Leaf Springs
Power steering fluid reservoir, shock absorber, slack adjuster and push rod, spring hanger, steering column, what to check for:.
When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken. The items you will need to check for include:
- Make sure all of the wires are connected. The belt should not be cracked or frayed and the free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch.
- The free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking.
- The brake chamber should not be leaking air.
- The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.
- The brake hose is rubber, so it is important to make sure it is not leaking air.
- Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
- Make sure all three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.
- The reservoir should not leaking and must be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Make sure the drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.
- The gear box and hoses should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and should not be leaking.
- Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.
- The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking.
General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)
- The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking.
- The hub seal (or axle seal) should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Make sure none of the leaf springs have shifted.
- Check for leaks under the truck.
- There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes.
- The oil level should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It should be not cracked, bent or broken.
- Make sure this reservoir is not leaking and filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- The rim cannot have any unauthorized welds.
- Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.
- With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should never move more than one inch.
- The spring hanger should be properly mounted and secure.
- Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken.
- Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires must be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
- Make sure the tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent or broken.
- Make sure all are accounted for.
Back to top of Engine Compartment
Catwalk and Steps
Door and hinges, drive shaft, exhaust system, frame and cross members, spring mount.
Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.
- The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.
- The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Make sure to mention the brake chamber is not leaking air.
- Make sure the brake drum is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.
- There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
- The cat walk and steps should be clear of any loose objects.
- Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten.
- The drive shaft should not be twisted and the u-joints should be free of any debris.
- The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts. The tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires should be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
- The exhaust system should show no signs of leaks.
- There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.
- Fuel should not be leaking from the tank and the cap should always be on tight.
- Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened.
- Mirrors should be clean for best visibility.
- Make sure the mud flap is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- Make sure to mention there should be never be any unauthorized welds.
- The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.
- With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
- If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.
- The spring arm should be secure at both ends.
- The spring mount should be secure at both ends.
- Make sure the torque arm is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- Make sure to check and mention that no U-bolts are missing.
Back to top of Driver Door Fuel Area
Electric Line
Locking jaws, mounting bolts, release arm, sliding fifth wheel locking pin.
- Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled.
- Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mudflap and the trailer landing gear so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.
- The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.
- The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate.
- The seals should be in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.
- Make sure the king pin is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- You must physically check that the locking jaws is fully locked around the king pin.
- No mounting bolts should be missing.
- Make sure the platform is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
- The release arm should be in the fully locked position.
- The skid plate needs to be properly lubed.
- The pin must be in the fully locked position.
Back to top of Coupling Area
Header Board
Landing gear, rear door and hinges.
- Shock Absorbers
Tandem Frame and Release
Trailer tire.
- Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.
- The brake chamber should be properly mounted so that is does not leak air.
- The brake hose should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks.
- Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
- There cannot be any missing cross members.
- The header board cannot have any holes or missing rivets.
- The landing gear must be fully raised and the cradle handle secure.
- Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts.
- The rims cannot have any unauthorized welds.
- The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten.
- The shock absorber should be checked at both ends for leaks.
- When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
- Release handle and locking pins should be in the fully locked position.
There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire should be properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.
- Front of the truck
- Both sides of the truck
- Rear of the truck
- Both sides of the trailer
- Rear of the trailer
Back to top of Trailer
The five functions are:
- Left turn signal
- Right turn signal
- Four way flashers
- High/low beams
- Brake lights
Back to top of Light Check
- Airbrake Test
Air Pressure Gauges
Emergency equipment, heater and defroster, lighting indicators, oil pressure gauge, parking brake, service brake check, water temperature gauge, windshield and mirrors, windshield wipers and washers.
The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:
Air Brake Test
There are three stages to an air brake test:
- Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you will want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which will then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
- Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
- Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.
- The air pressure gauges should build to governor cut out.
- Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses.
- Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.
Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)
- Blow both horns to make sure they are working.
- Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.
- Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.
- The seat belt should not be ripped or frayed and should adjust and latch properly.
- The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.
- Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, then tug lightly on the trailer.
- Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake and tug lightly on the trailer.
- Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.
- The voltmeter should be charging between 13 and 14 volts.
- The water temperature gauge should also rise to normal operating range.
- The windshield and mirrors must be clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.
- Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.
Back to top of In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests
During a CDL pre-trip inspection, truckers inspect many aspects of their commercial vehicle, including the overall safety of the vehicle; major hoses, fluid levels, and vehicle belts; the clutch or gear shift; and emergency equipment. The driver demonstrates their knowledge by walking around the vehicle, checking various safety components and explaining why each part should be checked for safety.
Trucking companies want to recruit drivers who have safety in mind! Use this checklist to help you master the pre-trip inspection.
Reference and practice tests:
- Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)
- CDL Practice Tests
Edited on 8/31/24
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
2021 Oct 7. A full procedural video of the Commercial Driver's License (CDL) Class B (Dump Truck) with Air Brakes Pre-Trip inspection. A Class B vehicle is a straight truck...
Here is a procedural training video demonstrating the requirements and best practices to help prepare you for successfully completing the Pre-Trip Inspection portion of the CDL Class B (Dump Truck). Below the video is a line item checklist you can also use for study.
Class B Pre-Trip Inspection. Point to, or touch, every item that you are inspecting. Tell the tester how you know that the part you are inspecting is in good, safe working condition. Identify all defects or you may not receive credit.
this is a pre-trip inspection for a class b truck similar on many other class b vehicles
This video has helped thousands of viewers master their Class B CDL Skills Test. This is a full Class B Pre-Trip Inspection with an In-Cab inspection and Bra...
This pre-trip inspection checklist is designed to guide you through the necessary steps to evaluate the condition of your vehicle. It covers all critical areas, including the engine compartment, brakes, tires, lights, and more.