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Hidden Beauties of Ukraine: One Day in Lutsk 

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Daniel Herszberg

Daniel has visited Every Country in the World – the youngest Australian to set foot in all 197/197 countries!

A charming city in Western Ukraine , Lutsk is one of the many hidden beauties of Ukraine .

As a compact, safe and walkable city, I am surprised that Lutsk doesn’t appear more often in Eastern Europe travel itineraries! With a history going back centuries and a historical mix of Ukrainian, Jewish and Polish cultures, one day in Lutsk draws you into the best of travel in Ukraine: the crossroads of empires.  

Before you go: Visiting Ukraine in 2024 

9 am – lubart’s castle and cathedral of st. peter and paul , 11:30 am – choral synagogue , 12:30 pm – lunch: a ukrainian feast , 2:30 pm – volyn jewish museum , 4:30 pm – theatre square , 5:00 pm – a moment of reflection , 6:00 pm – dinner: show basilico .

At the time of writing, Lutsk has been left relatively untouched by the ongoing war in Ukraine . 

However, if you are planning to travel to Ukraine now, there are certain things to keep in mind . Make sure to check out everything you need to know about air raid sirens, electricity and your safety before you book your flights!

One day in Lutsk 

Begin your day with a visit to Lubart’s Castle (or Lutsk Castle), an imposing medieval fortress that has stood for centuries. Make sure to take the time to explore the well-preserved ramparts and take in panoramic views of the city.

Before heading inside the castle, make a short stop at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul , a beautiful Baroque-style church nearby. It’s a serene spot to start your day.

Travel tip : Lubart’s Castle is on the 200 UAH note – keep one handy for a cool Instagram photo.

A short walk from the castle, you’ll find the Choral Synagogue , a testament to Lutsk’s multicultural heritage.  

The Choral Synagogue is one of the most unique synagogues in Europe . The Jews of Lutsk were allowed to build on a synagogue on the condition that it formed part of the city’s defence system. You will notice a tower attached to the rundown synagogue building , with guard stations above. As the synagogue walls were over two metres thick, even detonating bombs left by the Nazis could not bring the building down.  

As you stand in front of the Choral Synagogue, you can see the former Jewish hospital (now the Rhombus Hotel) and the ruins of five other synagogues nearby.  

For lunch you are heading back into town to Lʹoh u Svata restaurant – Lutsk’s best restaurant for Ukrainian food . Head downstairs into the cellar (useful if an air siren goes) and admire the walls lined with Ukrainian cultural paraphernalia which quickly transport you to the Ukrainian countryside.  

Tsar Peter I stayed in this house during a visit to Lutsk centuries ago!  

My recommendation? The fried carp and potato variniki (Ukranian dumplings)!  

After lunch, head to the Volyn Progressive Judaism Centre ( Волинська релігійна громада прогресивного іудаїзму on Google Maps ). This tall, light blue building used to house the Beth Din (Jewish Court) of Lutsk. Today, you can still feel the grandeur of the building , a small insight into what was once an important Jewish city.   

Now, don’t fret: I’m not sending you to court. Rather, you’re going to the small Jewish Museum housed on the ground floor – another hidden secret in Lutsk .  

For most of Lutsk’s history, the city was around 60% Jewish , with the remaining population Ukrainian and Polish. While only a handful of Jewish families live in Lutsk today, the small museum contains a wealth of photographs and video content from a pre-Soviet, pre-WWII Lutsk . Even if you aren’t interested in Jewish history, I would recommend taking a look for the photographs and artefacts of the Lutsk of yesteryear .  

The staff here don’t speak much English, so I would advise to have Google translate ready (again, another reason to have a Ukraine eSim or local SIM ready to go).

Many of the staff are resettled people from Eastern Ukraine , with the community center forming an important part of the aid effort in Ukraine. If you’re looking at how to best assist in Ukraine , the staff may have some ideas!  

Local tip : Don’t forget to visit the Jewish cemetery memorial marker, located behind the center next to the car park. Lutsk’s centuries-old Jewish cemetery was paved over by the Soviet government to make way for a carpark. A small reminder of Lutsk’s difficult heritage .  

As the sun sets, Theatre Square ( Teatral’nyy Maydan) comes to life with skateboarders, young couples and buskers . Do yourself a favour and pick up a fresh donut ( ponchyk in Ukranian) from the stall to your left – a little pre-dinner snack never hurt, and donuts are a cultural activity too. 

Enjoy some free time to explore Lutsk’s vibrant Lesi Ukrainky pedestrian street. Stroll along the charming avenue, lined with shops, cafes , and historic buildings.  

If you have access to a car and are interested in delving deeper into the difficult Jewish stories of Lutsk’s history, consider visiting the mass grave of the 25,658 Jews of Lutsk .  

Over a two-week period in 1942, the Jews of Lutsk were murdered in two large ravines on the outskirts of town. Today, a small memorial serves as a poignant reminder of the city’s past and the atrocities of the Holocaust in Ukraine. This may not compare to the vast memorials of Babi Yar , or Ukraine’s unique pogrom memorial – but it is still an extremely powerful site to visit.

To get here, follow the Google Maps location which will take you through some old sugar factories (an extremely photogenic spot for those seeking Soviet nostalgia ).  

Your one day in Lutsk ends with a delightful dinner at Show Basilico , a restaurant known for its upscale pan-European cuisine. Now don’t expect the vibrant dining scene of Lviv or Kyiv , but the menu here does have something for everyone, from sushi to pizza . If you have just started your Ukranian adventures, Show Basilico also offers some fancier fusion style Ukranian variniki . 

And if you’re lucky, live music will join your dinner!  

As the day comes to a close, you’ll leave Lutsk with a deeper appreciation for its cultural heritage, the resilience of its Jewish community. In my opinion, Lutsk is one of the hidden beauties of Ukraine for its enchanting blend of history and modernity . 

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8 Best Things To Do In Lutsk, Ukraine

Published: September 9, 2023

Modified: December 28, 2023

by Greta Thompson

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Lutsk, a picturesque city located in western Ukraine, is a hidden gem that offers an abundance of cultural, historical, and natural treasures. With its rich history dating back to the 11th century, Lutsk is a vibrant destination that seamlessly blends old-world charm with modern flair.

As you explore this captivating city, you’ll find yourself immersed in a plethora of experiences that will leave a lasting impression. From exploring ancient castles and monuments to indulging in traditional Ukrainian cuisine, Lutsk offers a diverse range of activities that cater to every traveler’s interests.

In this article, we will dive into the 8 best things to do in Lutsk, Ukraine. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or a food enthusiast, Lutsk has something to offer for everyone. So, pack your bags and get ready to embark on a remarkable journey through this enchanting city.

Discover the Lutsk Castle

At the heart of the city stands the magnificent Lutsk Castle, also known as Lubart’s Castle. This medieval fortress is a testament to the city’s rich history and offers breathtaking views from its towers. Explore its numerous chambers and exhibitions to learn more about the fascinating past of Lutsk.

Stroll Along the Olga Kobylianska Street

Nestled in the center of Lutsk, the Olga Kobylianska Street is a lively pedestrian boulevard lined with restaurants, cafes, and boutiques. Take a leisurely stroll along this charming street, indulge in local delicacies, and shop for unique handicrafts.

Visit the Volyn Museum of Local Lore

Dive deep into the history of Volyn region at the Volyn Museum of Local Lore. From ancient artifacts to traditional costumes, this museum offers a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Lutsk and its surroundings.

Explore the Holy Trinity Cathedral

The Holy Trinity Cathedral is a magnificent Orthodox church located in the heart of Lutsk. Admire the stunning architecture, intricate frescoes, and ornate decorations while experiencing a moment of tranquility and spirituality.

Take a Boat Trip on the Styr River

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a relaxing boat trip on the picturesque Styr River. Marvel at the tranquil scenery, soak in the fresh air, and embrace the natural beauty that surrounds Lutsk.

Attend a Performance at the Lutsk Drama Theater

Immerse yourself in the local arts scene by attending a performance at the Lutsk Drama Theater. From gripping plays to enchanting ballets, this theater offers a diverse range of cultural experiences for audiences of all ages.

Indulge in Local Cuisine

No visit to Lutsk is complete without sampling the delicious local cuisine. From hearty Ukrainian dishes to delectable pastries, the city’s restaurants and cafes are sure to tantalize your taste buds.

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The Best Things to See and Do in Lutsk

The lovely city of Lutsk is an important destination for those who want to explore the history and regional particularities of Ukraine. Located in Western Ukraine, it is one of the country’s spiritual centres, with a large number of churches, cathedral and monasteries. Not surprisingly, it is also called a little Rome.

Explore lubart’s castle.

Lubart’s Castle is the most well-known attraction in Lutsk and one of the greatest castles in the country . The 14th-century fortification is a monument of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania epoch in Ukraine. Built by Russian-Lithuanian Prince Lubart, it is also referred to as the High Castle. On the territory of the fortress, there’s also a cultural complex consisting of several museums: the Art Museum, the Bells Museum, the Books Museum (more on this below) and the Weapons Museum.

Kafedralna Street, 1A, Lutsk, Ukraine , +380332724588

Visit Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral

Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church. This remarkable Society of Jesus (Jesuit) legacy appeared in Lutsk in the 17th century. It is built in the Renaissance and Classicist styles and, luckily, has been preserved in the pristine fashion to this day. Moreover, Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral is considered to be the highest Jesuit church in Eastern Europe, which rises 26 meters (85 feet) into the sky. The Lutsk Dungeon, located under the church, is a must-see spot and is free to access (see below).

Kafedralna Street, 6, Lutsk, Ukraine , +380332 721 412

Descend into the Lutsk Dungeon

In addition to the regular streets and avenues, Lutsk’s underground passages are no less interesting. Their roots trace back to the 15th and 17th centuries. During Jesuit times, they were used as a jail, as cellars to store goods and a place for sacred objects. Meanwhile, during the Second World War, the dungeon became a bomb shelter. Nowadays, these unusual three-story dungeons, located under Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral, are draped in mystery and legends, which you can hear during the guided tour to these underground areas.

Kafedralna Street, 6, Lutsk, Ukraine , +3800332724588

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Stroll the city centre

Lutsk is an ancient city that has a typical Old Town. There are historical monuments and souvenir stalls, cobblestoned streets, beautiful fountains and green spaces. Among the main attractions are Lesya Ukrainka Park (a favourite destination of locals), Chartoryiskykh Tower (a Lutsk fortification), the central market with traditional Ukrainian goods like salo (pork fat), the Pharmacy Museum and the Choral Synagogue (an old synagogue with a defence tower). Located close to each other, these sights will help you get a general idea about the city’s history and everyday life.

Lutsk Old Town, Lutsk, Ukraine

Learn about regional icon art

The Volyn Icon Museum (Volyn is a historical region in Ukraine) is an interesting venue for fans of the sacred art. It features an impressive collection of more than 1,500 items: icons of the 17th–19th centuries, crosses, liturgical books, sacred sculptures and utensils. There’s also a unique chapel hall, where visitors come to see the Kholm Icon of the Mother of God, whose origin dates from the 11th century. The museum holds presentations, meetings, concerts of chamber music and spiritual singing performances.

Yaroschuka Street, 5, Lutsk, Ukraine , +380332243412

Wander around the Lutsk Zoo

If you’re travelling with children or would like to get away from the crowded city, the Lutsk Zoo is a lovely place to visit. It was established to preserve rare species of animals in Ukraine and to acquaint locals and tourists from all over the world with the unique nature of Volyn. In total, more than 40 species of fauna, 88 animals and 35 birds can be found here. In addition to the overall zoo space, there’s also a small contact zoo, where kids can touch and feed the animals.

Hlushets Street, 7, Lutsk, Ukraine , +380332248153 A post shared by 🌌Nadya (@together_11_forever) on Jun 28, 2018 at 11:29am PDT

Get inspired by the Books Museum

The Books Museum in the Lutsk Castle is a venue that everyone, from children to adults, will enjoy. The majority of the collection is composed of antique books, the oldest of which is over 350 years old. There are three rooms with different exhibitions. The first one goes into the publishing history of Europe, showcasing the 15th-century printing press. Other rooms have a variety of printed editions of the six most famous printing houses of Eastern European countries. Special attention should be paid to the rare exhibits like the 1644 Gospel book.

Kafedralna Street, 1, Lutsk, Ukraine , +380332724588

Marvel at the house of architect Golovan

Located on the banks of the Styr River, the so-called House with Chimeras (similar to the one in Kiev ) is the most unusual attraction in Lutsk. The architect Mykola Golovan has been working on it for over 30 years. Currently, it is adorned with about 500 sculptures in a variety of styles, from Gothic and Renaissance styles to classic and fairytale pieces. The greatest object is the bas-relief depiction of all the sculptor’s family members on the pediment of the house.

Liuteranska Street, 9, Lutsk, Ukraine

Gaze at the greatness of the Lutheran Church

The Lutheran Church is one of the city’s youngest attractions, which was built in the early 20th century. Completed in the Neo-Gothic style, it has the same name as the street on which it is situated. In Soviet times, the church was used as a secular building, and after the collapse of the Soviet Union, it was handed over to the Baptists. Thus, it is a Baptist church at the moment. It is located some distance from the city centre of Lutsk, yet its spire makes the church an easily visible attraction from afar.

Liuteranska Street, 16, Lutsk, Ukraine

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The heart of Volyn is Lutsk , one of the most ancient, mysterious and charming cities in Ukraine. It is well known for its rich history, which determined the city’s appearance. Today, Lutsk manages to harmoniously combine the monumentality of Soviet architecture with the grace of ancient buildings that continue to preserve Kyivan Rus’ and Medieval Europe’s spirit. The richness of its history and architecture is comparable to those of Lviv and Kyiv . 

History has not preserved the precise year of the city’s appearance, but it was first written about in 1085. An old text recounted the tale of a city whose massive fortress was able to withstand a 6 month-long siege by the Poles. The citadel itself, according to historians, was built in 1000 by Vladimir, the prince of Kyiv . At that time, the city’s name was Luchesk, derived from the word “luka,” meaning “an arc or bend (of a river)”.

In the 14th century, Lutsk was a part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and became its second most important city. Under Lithuanian rule, the city flourished, mostly due to its favorable location on a trade route from the Baltic Sea to the Byzantine Empire. Having turned into a large trade center, Lutsk became a magnet for domestic and foreign merchants, and, as a result, acquired a very diverse population. The Polish and German quarters appeared at this time, enriching Lutsk ’s architectural beauty. Both Poland, which controlled Lutsk in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the Russian Empire, which took over a century later, contributed to the city’s unique aesthetic.

Lutsk ’s historic area is a protected national treasure. It houses numerous historic, architectural and religious landmarks. The old and new parts of Lutsk are divided by the beautiful Lesia Ukarainka Street, which leads to the city’s main attraction, the Lubart Castle . It is one of ten oldest fortifications of not only Ukraine, but of the whole Europe. Moreover, it is one of the very few monuments of times of Lithuanian rule on Ukrainian territory, and it has survived until now almost unchanged. Several museums lie on the castle’s territory: the Armory Museum, the Book Museum, the Art Gallery and, the most unusual, Museum of Bells. In its collection, you can find one of the country’s oldest bells.

The gem of the historic city’s architectural ensemble is the splendid  St. Peter and Paul Cathedral , built in the 17th century as part of a Jesuit monastic complex. The splendor of its decor and the luxury of its interior, richly decorated with sculptures and impressive frescos, continue to amaze its visitors. The church’s underground tunnels are also intriguing; they are multilayered and stretch on for kilometers. It is said that during restive times, the tunnels served as a secret passage out of the city. These dungeons are often compared to the netherworld. They are dimly lit and are littered with bones and sculls. You can enter the tunnels only on a tour.

Another of Lutsk ’s sacral masterpieces is the  Saint Trinity Cathedral . It appeared in the 18th century as a Catholic church in a Bernardine monastery; its features are reminiscent of Rococo. But after the Bernardine order was abolished, and the temple passed to the Orthodox church, and it was rebuilt in the late Baroque style.

The representatives of different cultures and religions that used to live in Lutsk , all left their marks in the form of distinctive architectural monuments. This explains why today, in the city’s historical center, besides Christian shrines, you can see a synagogue and a Protestant church, as well as a Karaite kenesa.

Lutsk is also famous for its bright festivals, national fairs, and medieval tourneys that take place in the Lubart Castle . Such evens allow the guests to not only admire the centuries-old cathedrals and medieval streets, but to also feel the festive atmosphere of the time.

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Ukraine Travel Advisory

Travel advisory may 22, 2023, ukraine - level 4: do not travel.

Do not travel to Ukraine due to Russia’s war against Ukraine. The Department of State continues to advise that U.S. citizens not travel to Ukraine due to active armed conflict. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

All U.S. citizens should carefully monitor U.S. government notices and local and international media outlets for information about changing security conditions and alerts to shelter in place. Those choosing to remain in Ukraine should exercise caution due to the potential for military attacks, crime, civil unrest, and consult the Department’s latest security alerts.

The security situation in Ukraine remains unpredictable. U.S. citizens in Ukraine should stay vigilant and take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness. Know the location of your closest shelter or protected space. In the event of mortar, missile, drone, or rocket fire, follow instructions from local authorities and seek shelter immediately. If you feel your current location is no longer safe, you should carefully assess the potential risks involved in moving to a different location.

There are continued reports of Russian forces and their proxies singling out U.S. citizens in Russian-occupied areas of Ukraine for detention, interrogation, or harassment because of their nationality. U.S. citizens have also been singled out when evacuating by land through Russia-occupied territory or to Russia or Belarus.

U.S. citizens seeking emergency assistance should email [email protected] for assistance. Please review what the U.S. government can and cannot do to assist you in a crisis overseas . U.S. citizens may also seek consular services, including requests for repatriation loans, passports, and visa services, at U.S. embassies and consulates in neighboring countries .

On February 24, 2022, the Ukrainian government declared a state of emergency. Each province (oblast) decides on measures to be implemented according to local conditions. Measures could include curfews, restrictions on the freedom of movement, ID verification, and increased security inspections, among other measures. Follow any oblast-specific state of emergency measures.

Many in the international community, including the United States and Ukraine, do not recognize Russia’s purported annexation of Crimea in 2014, nor the September 2022 purported annexation of four other Ukrainian oblasts -- Donetsk, Luhansk, Kherson, and Zaporizhzhia. There is extensive Russian Federation military presence in these areas. There are also abuses against foreigners and the local population by the occupation authorities in these regions, particularly against those who are seen as challenging Russia’s occupation.

Although Russia’s ongoing war against Ukraine severely restricts the Embassy’s access and ability to provide services in these areas, the Department of State and the U.S. Embassy in Kyiv continue to remotely provide certain emergency consular services to U.S. citizens in Crimea as well as four other Ukrainian oblasts partially occupied by Russia – Donetsk, Luhansk, Kherson, and Zaporizhzhia – to the extent possible given security conditions.

The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Notice to Air Missions (NOTAM) prohibiting U.S. aviation operations into, out of, within, or over Ukraine. For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the FAA’s Prohibitions, Restrictions, and Notices .

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Ukraine.

Travel to High-Risk Areas

If you choose to disregard the Travel Advisory and travel to Ukraine, you should consider taking the following steps:

• Visit our website on Travel to High-Risk areas .
• Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
• Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
• Share important documents, login information, and points of contact with loved ones so that they can manage your affairs if you are unable to return as planned to the United States.
• Leave DNA samples with your medical provider in case it is necessary for your family to access them.
• Establish your own personal security plan in coordination with your employer or host organization or consider consulting with a professional security organization.
• Develop a communication plan with family and/or your employer or host organization so that they can monitor your safety and location as you travel through high-risk areas. This plan should specify who you would contact first and how they should share the information.
• Enroll your trip in the State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter .
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the Traveler’s Checklist .

If you are currently in Ukraine:

• Read the Department’s country information page on Ukraine.
• Familiarize yourself with information on what the U.S. government can and cannot do to assist you in a crisis overseas .
• Have a contingency plan in place that does not rely on U.S. government assistance.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your contingency plans based on the new information.
• Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
• Ensure travel documents are valid and easily accessible.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Notices related to your travel.
• Get a COVID vaccine to facilitate your travel.
• Understand the COVID testing and vaccine requirements for all countries that you will transit through to your destination.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Review the Country Security Report for Ukraine.
• Review the Traveler’s Checklist.
• Visit our website for Travel to High-Risk areas .

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In Kyiv, Blinken Discusses Ukraine’s Push for Deep Missile Strikes into Russia

Secretary of State Antony J. Blinken and his British counterpart, David Lammy, made a rare joint trip to Ukraine to show allied solidarity as the American presidential election looms.

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By Edward Wong

Reporting from Kyiv, Ukraine, while traveling with the U.S. secretary of state

In a rare joint visit abroad, Secretary of State Antony J. Blinken and his British counterpart, David Lammy , met with the top leaders of Ukraine in Kyiv on Wednesday to discuss bolstering the Ukrainian military and whether to allow it to use imported long-range missiles to strike deep into Russia.

Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy said they had heard views from President Volodymyr Zelensky on Ukraine’s desire to fire missiles provided by the United States and Britain at Russian targets well beyond the border between the two warring nations.

They told reporters at a news conference that they would convey what they had heard to President Biden and Keir Starmer, the prime minister of Britain, and that those two leaders would discuss it when they meet in Washington on Friday.

The talks on Wednesday were focused on “the situation on the battlefield, Ukraine’s objectives and what it needs to succeed going forward,” Mr. Blinken said, adding that long-range fire was among the topics. “I’m going to take that discussion back to Washington to brief the president on what I heard,” he said.

“From day one, as you’ve heard me say, we have adjusted and adapted as needs have changed, as the battlefield has changed,” he said.

Mr. Lammy confirmed that the officials had talked about Ukraine using American and British long-range missiles to hit Russia. “We’ve had detailed conversations today with President Zelensky,” he said. “We recognize that Ukraine is on the frontline of the fight for freedom.”

The visit came as the Biden administration struggles to curtail aid to Russia from Iran, North Korea and China, and as the U.S. presidential elections loom over the conflict.

Mr. Blinken alluded to anxieties over the election at the news conference and to the state of aid for Ukraine if Donald J. Trump, the Republican candidate, were to win in November.

“The bottom line is this: We want Ukraine to win, and we’re fully committed to keep marshaling the support that it needs,” he said. “Support for Ukraine will endure because it doesn’t depend on any one country, any one party, any one election."

But the United States has been by far the largest provider of military aid to Ukraine. And Mr. Blinken announced additional humanitarian and energy infrastructure aid on Wednesday.

Two air-raid sirens sounded in the evening, once as Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy met with Mr. Zelensky, and once at the end of their news conference in the foreign ministry. A third siren sounded late at night, soon after Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy boarded a train for the return trip to Poland.

After stepping off a private overnight train from Poland in the morning, the top American and British diplomats met throughout the day with military and civilian officials, including Ukraine’s new foreign minister, Andrii Sybiha, who was appointed last Thursday by Mr. Zelensky as part of an overhaul of the government’s top ranks .

After 5 p.m., Mr. Zelensky, Mr. Sybiha and four other Ukrainian officials met with Mr. Blinken, Mr. Lammy and their aides at the Mariyinsky Palace, the presidential residence.

Mr. Lammy said it had been well over a decade since the top diplomats from the United States and Britain had traveled together. He added that the governments were determined to address the threat posed to Ukraine by Iran’s shipments of short-range ballistic missiles to Russia, an accusation Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy made publicly in London on Tuesday.

At 6:15 local time, the first air raid siren of Mr. Blinken’s trip sounded, with Ukraine’s air force saying it had picked up a missile threat from the north.

Mr. Blinken’s visit came as part of a busy day in the capital for Mr. Zelensky. He also welcomed leaders of Latvia, Lithuania and Croatia, who came to attend the annual Crimea Platform summit, which is dedicated to reversing the illegal annexation of the peninsula by Russia in 2014.

Mr. Zelensky unveiled a memorial commemorating the tragedy that befell the Crimean Tatar people, an ethnic minority repressed by Stalin , who — in a foreshadowing of the Kremlin’s justification for its current war — accused them of being Nazi collaborators and deported them en masse. Thousands died.

“Memory compels us to act,” Mr. Zelensky said, noting that the return of Crimea to Ukraine is a key part of ensuring a lasting peace.

President Recep Tayyip Erdogan of Turkey, speaking by video at the summit, said, “The return of Crimea to Ukraine is a requirement of international law.”

The first debate between Mr. Trump and Vice President Kamala Harris took place in the middle of the night during Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy’s Kyiv-bound train ride. A few passengers on Mr. Blinken’s train stayed up to watch at least the start of the debate, but most scrambled online in the morning to read assessments of the event.

Officials in Ukraine were tracking the debate as well: Mr. Trump, who has expressed admiration for Mr. Putin, has rallied a significant number of Republican politicians to oppose U.S. military aid to Ukraine, while Ms. Harris has vowed to continue supporting the besieged country. Asked during the debate specifically if he wanted Ukraine to win, Mr. Trump delivered a 400-word reply but did not say “yes.”

In recent weeks, the Ukrainian military has made a surprising incursion into the Russian region of Kursk, lifting morale in Ukraine. But that offensive has failed to divert Russian units from their onslaught in eastern Ukraine, where they continue to make small but steady gains.

At the news conference, American and British reporters pressed Mr. Blinken and Mr. Lammy on entreaties from Ukrainian officials for permission for the Ukrainian military to use missiles provided by those nations for strikes deep into Russian territory.

In May, the Biden administration gave Ukraine permission to use U.S. weapons for shorter cross-border attacks against Russian sites that were being used in an offensive against the Ukrainian city of Kharkiv. Since then, U.S. officials have allowed the Ukrainian military to make that kind of shorter strike at other places along the border.

On Tuesday, Mr. Lammy called Iran’s ballistic missile shipments to Russia a “significant escalation,” and in Kyiv on Wednesday he said that Britain was joining the United States in imposing sanctions on Iran and Russia. Iranian officials have denied they made any such shipment, and in Moscow on Wednesday, the Kremlin denied it was receiving weaponry from other nations.

Until now, Iran has mainly supplied Russia with drones, while North Korea has provided artillery shells and ballistic missiles. The Biden administration says Chinese companies are selling factory machine tools and microelectronics to Russia to help it rebuild its arms-production industry.

“We’re seeing this new axis: Russia, Iran, North Korea,” Mr. Lammy said. “We’re urging China not to throw their lot in with this group of renegades.”

Also on Wednesday, Mr. Zelensky attended an international conference on justice, where he said Ukrainian investigators had gathered evidence of 137,000 war crimes committed by Russian forces since Moscow launched its full-scale invasion in 2022. And he chided Mongolia’s decision to host Mr. Putin recently — the Russian leader’s first trip to a member nation of the International Criminal Court since it issued a warrant for his arrest last year — and Brazil’s plans to invite Mr. Putin to a meeting of the Group of 20 later this year.

Those invitations were signs of the degradation of the international system of law, Mr. Zelensky said, and “the demolition of the remaining norm must not be allowed.”

Marc Santora contributed reporting from Kyiv, Ukraine, and Ivan Nechepurenko contributed from Tbilisi, Georgia.

Edward Wong reports on global affairs, U.S. foreign policy and the State Department. He is the author of the book “At the Edge of Empire: A Family’s Reckoning with China.” More about Edward Wong

Our Coverage of the War in Ukraine

North Korean Missiles:  Despite sanctions, Russia has received new shipments of North Korean Hwasong-11 ballistic missiles , according to a new report. Some of the missiles were used in Ukraine.

U.S. Election Issue:  At the presidential debate between Donald Trump and Kamala Harris, Trump repeated his claim that he can end the war  and refused to say if defending Ukraine was in America’s national security interests.

How Nail Salons Lift Morale:  Paying attention to beauty may seem a trivial concern when the very fate of Ukraine is at stake. But for many Ukrainian women, it is an important ritual of daily life .

A Tug Between Russia and Europe:  A falling-out between former political allies  in Montenegro has complicated the country’s efforts to join the European Union and curb pro-Russian influence.

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