pacific marine circle tour map

Pacific Marine Circle Route

Pacific marine circle route 2019.

Victoria to Sooke

From Victoria, go as fast or as slow as you’d like, meandering through the winding roads into Sooke (only about a 45-minute drive from Downtown Victoria). Here, take a break from the road to explore “where the rainforest meets the sea”; stretch your legs with a trek out to the geological wonder that is the Sooke Potholes, or set out on a scenic shoreline walk along Whiffin Spit – extending between the Sooke Harbour and Juan de Fuca Strait. For something faster-paced, you can go ziplining with AdrenaLINE Zipline Adventure Tours, or set out on a fishing excursion with True Key Adventures. The oceanside town is also home to some spectacular local haunts like Stick in the Mud Cafe, and the 17-Mile House Pub (its namesake is the distance from Victoria’s City Hall) on route into town.

Exploring all that Sooke has to offer may mean you turn in for the night; we recommend SookePoint Ocean Cottage Resort or Sooke Harbour Resort & Marina. If you decide to make this portion of the road trip into a day trip, making a pitstop in Sooke and continuing on to Sheringham Distillery to taste small batch, Island-made hand-crafted spirits and stop in at the famous local staple, Shirley Delicious Cafe, for a late lunch. 

Charging stations:

• Prestige Oceanfront Resort, 6929 West Coast Rd, Sooke
• Seaparc Leisure Complex, 2168 Phillips Road, Sooke
• Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Road, Sooke

Must Stop Spots

Prince of whales, adrena line zipline adventure tours, sheringham distillery, where to stay, sookepoint ocean cottage resort, sooke harbour resort & marina, sooke to port renfrew.

Further along the route, Port Renfrew will greet you with wild vibes and wide-open ocean – this destination feels inherently West Coast. It is the perfect place to wander great hikes (it’s home to the trailhead of the famous West Coast Trail), explore magnificent old-growth and encounter a sport-fishing mecca. Keep the West Coast rustic vibes going with stop in at Bridgemans Bistro for a meal featuring local Island food and beverage. If you are turning in for the night, it doesn’t get much better than Wild Renfrew Resort – offering luxurious seaside cottages or the more economical West Coast Trail Lodge. In the evening, stoke a fire outdoors while you map out the next day’s drive.

Important Notes:  

• Cell phone service is spotty or unavailable along this part of the route.

Charging stations: 

• Wild Renfrew – 17293 Parkinson Rd, Port Renfrew

Gas station: 

• Pacheena 1, Juan de Fuca, BC *Note: this is the only gas station between Sooke and Lake Cowichan 

Shirley Delicious

French beach, wild renfrew, port renfrew to lake cowichan.

Luckily, Avatar Grove wasn’t the last stop for old-growth forest – lookout for signage for the Harris Creek Spruce (about 20 km outside of Port Renfrew), measuring 4-metres in diameter and approximately 80-feet in height. And, as if the old-growth forest wasn’t magical enough, on this part of the route you will catch site of Fairy Lake, home to the “bonsai” – a tiny Douglas fir tree defying odds, growing on a submerged log in the lake.

The winding forest road will eventually deliver you into Lake Cowichan – a charming town on the lake and popular tourist destination for swimming, fishing and (most famously) floating down the Cowichan River on a tube on a hot summer’s day. We recommend stopping for a bite to eat on the water at Jake’s on the Lake or a slice at Carmanah Pizza.

Important Notes: 

• Kaatza Station Museum, 125 South Shore Road, Lake Cowichan, BC
• Pacheena 1, Juan de Fuca, BC *Note: this is the only gas station between Sooke and Lake Cowichan.

Avatar Grove

Riverside inn, lake cowichan to duncan.

29 km | 30 mins

Just a quick hop from Lake Cowichan, Duncan , a.k.a “The City of Totems,” is a great stop for a walkabout and a cultural experience.  Take a short detour off the highway towards downtown and wander through over 40 magnificent carved totems that each depict a unique story told by the Indigenous carver. The newest edition is the Sesquicentennial Totem in Station Street Park (carved by Tommy Hunt Jr. from the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation) erected to celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday. In between totems, explore the town’s boutique clothing shops, book shop and, if you’re in town on a Saturday, the Duncan Farmers’ Market.

• Island Savings Centre, 2687 James Street, Duncan BC
• Coronation Mall, 361 Trans-Canada Highway 1, Duncan
• Duncan Train Station, 120 Canada Ave, Duncan
• Cowichan Regional Visitor Centre, 2892 Drinkwater Rd, Duncan

Island Motorsport Circuit

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From Cowichan Bay, you’ve reached the final leg of the trip. We recommend a quick detour en route to Sidney , via the Kinsol Trestle. An iconic landmark on Vancouver Island, it is one of the tallest free-standing timber trestles in the world. Standing 44-metres tall and spanning 187-metres, it is part of The Great Trail spanning across the country. Get the whole story about this historical landmark at the Shawnigan Lake Museum before heading back to the Malahat Highway, with a stop at the Malahat Summit to take in stunning views of the Saanich Inlet and the Cowichan Valley.

Alternate Route: Save time and take the scenic route by driving onto the Mill Bay – Brentwood Bay ferry for a quick (and stunning) 25-minute crossing to Sidney. Be sure to check departure times before you get in line to wait – this ferry doesn’t operate in the late evening. Charging stations: Kerry Park Recreation, 1035 Shawnigan Mill Bay Rd, Mill Bay

Kinsol Trestle

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Pacific Marine Circle Route Road Trip, Vancouver Island: Best Places to Stop, Map + Itineraries

The Pacific Marine Circle Route is one of Vancouver Island’s best road trips. It starts and finishes in Victoria, British Columbia’s characterful capital city.

The scenic road winds through temperate rainforest as it follows the rugged coastline of the Juan de Fuca Strait.

Salty sea breezes, beach waterfalls, huge trees and ocean vistas abound, as well as potential whale sightings.

After arriving at the remote community of Port Renfrew, the journey turns inland and heads towards the expansive shores of Cowichan Lake and the bountiful Cowichan Valley. The finale is the spectacular Malahat Summit, high above the ocean.

We’ve driven the Pacific Marine Circle Route more than half a dozen times in the last few years.

In this post, I’ll share our top picks for places to stop along the 263km long route, as well as useful tips to make the most of the journey.

I’ve also put together some suggested itineraries, to help with your trip planning.

Here’s what to expect:

How to get to Victoria

• What to expect
• Driving tips
• Best places to stop on the Pacific Marine Circle Route
• Suggested road trip itineraries
• Where to stay

There are affiliate links in this post. If you make a purchase via one of these links, we may receive a small percentage of the sale.

Published July 2023

Pacific Marine Circle Route: Essential details

Before I get into my recommendations for the best places to visit on the Pacific Marine Circle Route (PMCR), I thought it would be a good idea to share some background information.

The Pacific Marine Circle Route travels across the traditional territory of multiple First Nations, including the Pacheedaht, Quw’utsu, Ts’uubaa-asatx, Hul’qumi’num, W̱SÁNEĆ, Sc’ianew, Te’mexw and MÁLEXEȽ.

The driving distance, without stops or detours, is 263km. The best time to drive the PMCR is June to September, when the weather is warmest and driest.

The route is usually open all year round. Keep in mind, however, that November to March can be very wet. The days are short, with cool temperatures. There may be ocean fog too.

While it is possible to drive the PMCR in one day, I’d personally recommend a minimum of two, with three being ideal. There are so many beautiful places to see along the way and it would be a shame to miss out!

Pacific Marine Circle Route map

The Pacific Marine Circle Route is a combination of five roads:

• Highway 14 between Victoria and Port Renfrew
• Pacific Marine Road between Port Renfrew and the South Shore junction
• South Shore Road from the Pacific Marine Road junction to Lake Cowichan
• Highway 18 between Lake Cowichan and Highway 1 (near Duncan)
• Highway 1 between Duncan and Victoria

When viewed on a map, these roads form a complete circle. The below Google Map shows the route, as well as the featured activities and attractions mentioned in this post.

Officially, the Pacific Marine Circle Route starts and ends in Victoria. The city of Victoria is situated on the southeastern tip of Vancouver Island.

The easiest way to travel to Victoria from BC’s mainland is to take the ferry from Tsawwassen (Vancouver) to Swartz Bay . The journey time is 1 hour and 35 minutes. Swartz Bay is an easy 30 minute drive from Victoria.

If you have a specific ferry crossing in mind, I would suggest making a ferry reservation. This is particularly true on weekends, especially holiday weekends.

Alternatively, it is possible to take a ferry from Tsawwassen or Horseshoe Bay (both Vancouver) to Nanaimo, a city two hours drive north of Victoria. If you take this ferry crossing instead, it is possible to ‘cut in’ to the Pacific Marine Circle Route earlier at Duncan. This avoids double backing.

Visiting Vancouver Island from the USA? Consider taking the Black Ball Ferry from Port Angeles, Washington, to Victoria.

Pacific Marine Circle Route: What to expect

As mentioned, the Pacific Marine Circle Route utilises five roads – Highway 14, Pacific Marine Road, South Shore Road, Highway 18 and Highway 1.

The entire journey is paved. This section of the post will explain what to expect along the way. Click here to skip to the best things to do on the PMCR .

Victoria to Port Renfrew

Starting in a clockwise direction, the route leaves Victoria and heads west towards the harbourside village of Sooke on Highway 14 .

After this point, the highway stays close to the ocean (specifically the Juan de Fuca Strait) for the rest of its winding journey to Port Renfrew. This is the most beautiful part of the PMCR, with glimpses of the ocean offered through surrounding lush temperature rainforest.

The road occasionally climbs and descends, crossing bridges and creeks on the way. A gas station signifies the arrival to Port Renfrew. Go straight to visit Port Renfrew and Botanical Beach. Make a sharp right to continue towards Lake Cowichan.

Highway 14 is a well used road. For the majority of the route, it is a single lane (two lanes total) highway. Phone signal is intermittant on this road and non-existent at the Port Renfrew end.

There are windy sections with some tight curves and blind spots. The speed limit is, for the most part, 60km/h. If you’re driving a larger or slower vehicle, prepare to pull over when you can to let others pass.

Port Renfrew to Lake Cowichan

The sharp right turn from Highway 14 leads to a long one-lane bridge over the San Juan River, the first of half a dozen on this section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Stay right when the road splits, cross another river bridge you’ll be on Pacific Marine Road .

This winding, narrow at times, road leads all the way to Cowichan Lake. Most sections are forested, though there are some stark clearcuts. These may not look great but they do open up the views.

Pacific Marine Road ends at a junction on South Shore Road , adjacent to Cowichan Lake. Turn right and continue to the community of Lake Cowichan.

Port Renfrew to Lake Cowichan is the quietest section of the PMCR. There are no services between Port Renfrew and the South Shore Road junction. Phone signal is also limited.

Both roads are single lane only (two lanes total), with some one lane bridges. There are some very wide sections as well as some narrow areas, with tight corners. It is common to see industrial traffic (logging trucks) – give them plenty of space.

Lake Cowichan to Highway 1 junction near Duncan

Lake Cowichan and Highway 1 are connected by Highway 18 , a well-used road. I haven’t featured any stops or attractions along this section of the PMCR.

The highway is mostly flat and straight and therefore very easy and fast to drive. It is a one-lane highway with some two-lane sections. The speed limit along most of the highway is 100 km/h.

Highway 1 junction to Victoria

This section of the PMCR is the busiest. Highway 1 is Vancouver Island’s main highway. After leaving Duncan, it passes through the rural surroundings of the Cowicha Valley. The highway stays inland until Mill Bay.

The Malahat highway section, to the south, offers travels across rugged mountainside, with ocean views to the east.

Most of the suggested activities in this post are located a short distance from Highway 1 itself, so you will need to detour from the main route onto smaller roads. Considering how busy Highway 1 can be, that’s a good thing!

After the Malahat, Highway 1 travels through the centre of Goldstream Provincial Park. The city of Langford is next and then, finally, Victoria.

The majority of Highway 1 between Duncan and Victoria is two lane, with regular traffic lights in urban areas. Large sections of the road have a 50km/h-80km/h speed limit.

The Malahat section of the highway is narrow with wide curves. Opposing traffic is separated by a barrier.

Pacific Marine Circle Route tips

• Highway 14 has a low-speed limit and many tight corners. Some locals drive very fast on this road, so be prepared to pull over to let them pass
• It is common to see wildlife on both Highway 14 and Pacific Marine Road. Keep alert!
• As noted above, it is likely that you will see large industrial vehicles on South Shore Road and Pacific Marine Road. Slow down, give them lots of space and be prepared to pull over if necessary
• Phone signal is limited on Highway 14 and Pacific Marine Road. Tell someone where you are going and when you plan to be in touch
• Download the relevant Google Maps in advance so you can use them offline
• There are very few gas stations between Sooke and Lake Cowichan
• Check your spare tire before leaving Victoria and know how to change it
• It rains often in the Port Renfrew area, especially from November to May. Hiking trails and beaches can be very slippery
• As above, prepare to bring and wear wet weather gear while travelling on the coast, especially from November to May
• It is possible to drive the PMCR in either direction. I have written about it in a clockwise direction in this post
• If you find this guide helpful, you may also like our Nanaimo to Tofino Road Trip Guide

Public transport

Wondering if you can explore the Pacific Marine Circle Route by public transport? The quick answer is – kind of. It is possible to travel part of the route on the West Coast Trail Express, a shuttle bus designed for West Coast Trail hikers. I wouldn’t really recommend it for travelling around, however.

Pacific Marine Circle Route: Best places to stop

Read on to discover our top picks for places to visit on a Nanaimo to Tofino road trip.

I have included 17 different places, with some being quick sightseeing stops and others involving hiking trails.

All of the featured activities/trailheads are situated within 20 minutes drive of the main Pacific Marine Circle Route.

If you’re planning to drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route in one day (ambitious!), I would suggest picking just two or three of these suggestions.

For longer road trips, I have created two, three and four day itineraries to help with travel planning.

East Sooke Regional Park

Driving from Victoria, East Sooke Regional Park offers the first real taste of Vancouver Island’s wild west coast. 50km of hiking trails traverse the forest and coastline, taking in pocket beaches, tide pools and rocky bays.

For a short visit, I would suggest parking at Aylard Farm and hiking along the Coastal Trail to Creyke Point and then towards Alldridge Point (4km return, around 1.5 to 2 hours). A set of 3,000 year old petrogylphs are carved into the rocks just above the ocean at Alldridge Point.

The Coastal Trail features rugged terrain, with plenty of places where you need to step up and down. It can be slippery in wet conditions.

An easier alternative to East Sooke Regional Park is Whiffin Spit . The 2.4km trail along the natural breakwater is flat and takes less than one hour to walk.

Sooke Potholes

Formed millions of years ago after the last ice age, Sooke Potholes is a unique geological formation of deep naturally carved rock pools, waterfalls and canyons.

The potholes are most impressive to see on sunny days, when the water is crystal clear. The rock pools are a very popular place to swim when it is hot.

There are a number of different (paid) parking lots, each with trail access to viewpoints and beaches. The signage can be a little confusing. I’d recommend heading to parking lot 2, as it has easy access to a scenic gorge lookout.

Sheringham Point Lighthouse

If you’re a fan of lighthouses, be sure to make a stop at Sheringham Point Lighthouse . The red and white building sits on a rocky bluff above the ocean and is the only lighthouse on this section of coastline. It is a great place to spot seals.

The small parking lot for the lighthouse is found at the end of Sheringham Point Road. The hike is 600m each way and is downhill to the lighthouse (10-15 minutes). It is an easy walk, with gravel and paved sections and some intrepretive signage.

Feeling hungry? Make a stop at Shirley Delicious , a super cute cafe perched in the forest at the corner of Sheringham Point Road. Pick up a coffee and some freshly baked treats (muffins, crossiants and more) or stop and enjoy sandwiches with house made focaccia.

Mystic Beach

This beautiful beach on the 47km long Juan de Fuca Trail definitely has a mystical touch! Mystic Beach is not large but features features impressive cliffs and caves, as well as a natural waterfall. And, of course, the Pacific Ocean crashes right onto the rocks.

The 2km hike down to the beach traverses a lush forest and crosses a suspension bridge. It’s downhill all the way (which does mean it is uphill all the way back…) and has some short muddy sections. The path is rooty in areas too so expect to step up and down.

You know that Mystic Beach is close, however, when the roar of the ocean filters through the trees and wooden stairs appear. Plan to spend around 45 minutes hiking the trail in each direction.

If you don’t have time to hike down to Mystic Beach, consider a stop at Sandcut Beach instead. The 400m trail leads to a long rocky beach with several waterfalls cascading down sandstone rock. Sandcut Beach is located between Sheringham Point Lighthouse and Mystic Beach.

Sombrio Beach and the Hidden Waterfall

Sombrio Beach is the longest beach along this stretch of the coastline and is a favourite of surfers. The sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean are spectacular! Sombrio Beach is also on the Juan de Fuca Trail , located around the half way point.

A must see at Sombrio Beach is the Hidden Waterfall . Walk 1.5km across the pebbles to the far eastern section of the beach. This takes around 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.

Look for a big pile of driftwood on a creek. Follow the rushing water up the creek to find a beautifully cascading waterfall at the end of a mossy canyon. Expect to get your feet wet.

The Sombrio Beach parking lot is accessed via an unpaved, downhill 1.7km long road from Highway 14. It is well used and can be a little bumpy. Drive slowly!

Port Renfrew

Port Renfrew is a community of 260 people, situated on the Port San Juan inlet. First Nation people have lived in this area since time immemorial.

With housing, accommodation, cafes and shops scattered along the hilly coastline, Port Renfrew has a remote and sleepy feel. There are two Pacheedaht First Nation (‘children of the sea foam’) reserves on the other side of the San Juan River.

The main industries in this area are forestry, fishing and tourism. The latter is focused on outdoor adventure, with Port Renfrew being the start (and end) trailhead for both the Juan de Fuca Trail and more famous West Coast Trail.

Port Renfrew is a great place to grab a bite to eat, pick up supplies and spend a night or two.

Go for a walk on the wharf and then pop into the Renfrew Pub for a local Island brewed beer. Renny’s Food Truck serves up super tasty fried favourites (burgers, clam fritters, onion rings and more), while the Coastal Kitchen Cafe is a local institution for coffee and breakfast.

Botanical Beach

Botanical Beach is famous for its uniquely rich tide pools filled with marine creatures and plants. Located just 3km from Port Renfrew on a paved road, I’d say it is a must see when driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

The most direct route to the beach is the 1km long downhill trail from the eastern side of the parking lot (20-30 minutes). The trailhead on the other side of the parking is almost twice as long, leading first to Botany Bay and then Botanical Beach. Combine both trails for a 2.8km loop (1 hour).

Once at Botanical Beach, take in the ocean views and explore the rocky coastline. The tidepools are carved from soft sandstone and feature hundreds of plant species and marine animals. Be sure to only look and don’t touch!

Avatar Grove / T’l’oqwxwat

The Port Renfrew area is one of the wettest places on Vancouver Island. The enormous amount of rainfall and mild climate help huge trees to grow.

One of the most impressive and easily accessible locations to see some of these giant trees is Avatar Grove (called T’l’oqwxwat by the Pacheedaht First Nation).

This recently protected area features two short boardwalk hiking trails through the forest. The Lower Grove Trail (on the right hand side of the road, 520 return) is mostly flat and features some enormous cedars and Douglas Fir trees.

The Upper Grove Trail (left side, 560m return) is the most popular as it leads to “Canada’s Gnarliest Tree,” a cedar with a gargantuan burl (knotty growth). The path is steeper and has multiple sets of stairs.

Avatar Grove is located on Gordon River Road, an unpaved industrial (logging road). It is a 7km detour from Highway 14 and about 15-20 minutes drive from Port Renfrew. Drive very slowly to avoid potholes and give way to industrial traffic.

Big Lonely Doug and Eden Grove

If you’re exploring the Pacific Marine Circle with a high clearance vehicle and good tires (AWD or 4X4 would be beneficial), consider continuing from Avatar Grove to Big Lonely Doug .

Big Lonely Doug is Canada’s second tallest known Douglas Fir. Sitting in a logged clear cut, it provides a dramatic contrast to Avatar Grove. It is both a magical and sad experience to witness this huge tree standing alone in a destroyed forest.

Further along the same road at Big Lonely Doug is Eden Grove . This ancient forest is home to more giant trees , with one particular redcedar being almost four metres in width. Unfortunately, Eden Grove is not yet protected.

From Avatar Grove, continue along Gordon River Road and then then take a left on Edinburgh Main. The road is decent for the most part but there is a steep hill close to Big Lonely Doug that could be challenging for smaller vehicles. Eden Grove is further along Edinburgh Main.

Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree

In an area filled with huge trees, the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree offers something on the cuter side. This tiny tree is growing on a submerged log at the edge of Fairy Lake. It’s not really a bonsai tree, but a small Douglas Fir.

The easiest way to view the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree is to simply pull up next to lake on Highway 14. There is a small path leading through the trees down to the shore of the lake as well, if you want a closer look.

The Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree is just 10 minutes drive from Port Renfrew, right on Highway 14. I’m going to include a Google Street View schreenshot of the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree below, just to show how near it is to Highway 14!

Harris Creek Spruce

The last big tree stop in the Port Renfrew area is the Harris Creek Spruce . This giant Sitka Spruce tree sits in an old growth grove about 30 minutes drive northeast of Port Renfrew.

This mossy grove is found just off Highway 14. A short flat trail (less than 50m) leads from the small forest parking area to the Harris Creek Spruce. The tree is surrounded by a wooden fence, so you can’t get too close.

I think the Harris Creek Spruce is particularly impressive to see as most of the other trees in the forest are significantly smaller. The nearby creek provides a soothing soundtrack as well.

Cowichan Lake

Cowichan Lake is Vancouver Island’s second largest body of fresh water. It is a popular destination for fishing and idyllic camping vacations. It is circled by two main roads, with the Pacific Marine Circle Route following the South Shore Road for a short time.

The town of Lake Cowichan sits on the eastern shore of the lake and is a service hub. We love to stop in Lake Cowichan for ice cream and last minute supplies. Public washrooms and the Visitor Centre are located next to Saywell Park. Lake Cowichan is the end point of the Cowichan River tubing experience.

If it’s hot on your trip, Gordon Bay Provincial Park is a worthy detour before reaching Lake Cowichan. There is a large day use beach here with excellent swimming. When the Pacific Marine Circle Route reaches the South Shore Road junrtion, turn left instead of right and drive 10 minutes west to Gordon Bay.

Duncan totem poles

The Pacific Marine Circle Route leaves Cowichan Lake on Highway 18 and joins Highway 1 just north of Duncan .

This small city is host to the world’s largest outdoor collection of publicly displayed totem poles . For me, that makes it well worth a short stop.

Note that while I call Duncan a city, it is technically Canada’s smallest city by area. It only has a population of 5k people!

Putting that fun fact aside, Duncan’s Totem Tour Walk features as many as 44 different totems. All but one are located in the downtown area. If you can, time your visit for the Farmers’ Market, held every Saturday year round.

Cowichan Bay

Southwest of Duncan is the scenic seaside community of Cowichan Bay . I mention Cowichan Bay for two reasons.

For one, it really is the cutest place to stop in this area. Think colourful shops and restaurants, artist studios, boardwalks, floating houses and buildings on stilts. Cowichan Bay has such a cosy fishing village vibe! Whale-watching and kayaking tours are offered during the warmer months.

Cowichan Bay is also a great base to explore the wider Cowichan Valley. This area is a foodie heaven, thanks to Canada’s warmest year-round temperatures.

There are award-winning wineries, cideries, breweries, restaurants, cafes and bakeries, all utilising the highest quality of local produce. Our personal favourite is Merridale Cider , located on a 20 acre orchard.

Kinsol Trestle

One of the tallest free-standing timber rail trestle structures in the world, the Kinsol Trestle soars 44m above and 187m across the Koksilah River. This manmade marvel is only 15 minutes drive and a short walk from the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Built by the Canadian Northern Pacific Railway in the early 20th century, the trestle carried passenger and freight traffic across the river until 1979. It was restored and opened as part of a multi-use trail in 2011.

While the views from the trestle are beautiful, it is the views up to the bridge that are the most impressive. The multi-layered structure is just engineered so beautifully.

The Kinsol Trestle is 1.2km (20-25 minutes) from the south side parking lot. The trail is completely flat and open to cyclists, hikers and equestrians.

The Malahat Highway

Heading south, Highway 1 climbs and descends the 356m high summit of Malahat Mountain . Named after the local First Nation community, the Malahat is considered one of the most sacred places on southern Vancouver Island.

For drivers, the Malahat section of highway is a winding and steep 25km long journey over rugged mountainsides, through the forest and along steep cliffs.

Several viewpoints (accessible northbound only) provide breathtaking vistas of Saanich Inlet, the Saanich Peninsula, Salt Spring Island and the surrounding Salish Sea.

To see the best Malahat views, consider a trip to the Malahat SkyWalk . This new attraction boasts an elevated treetop boardwalk and 32m tall spiral observation tower with 360 degree lookout. For kids and big kids alike, there’s a slide down from the top as well!

While we haven’t personally checked out the Skywalk yet, it looks like a good option for families, anyone with accessibility needs and also those short on time. It’s also ideal for those driving the Circle Route clockwise as there is no access to a public viewpoint in this direction.

Goldstream Provincial Park

Our final recommended stop on the Pacific Circle Marine Route is Goldstream Provincial Park .

Despite being so close to Victoria, Goldstream still feels like a world away. There are massive old growth trees to admire, summits to climb, waterfalls to hike to and spawning salmon to watch (mid late October to December).

The challenging hike up to Mount Finlayson offers a good workout, climbing 410m in just 2km. The summit views towards the Langford area are well worth the effort.

If that sounds like too much, I’d suggest a leisurely walk to the Visitor Centre (1.2km return). The trail passes a number of large trees and has some pretty river and inlet views as well. There is a short side trail to 47m high Niagara Falls .

Suggested road trip itineraries for the Pacific Marine Circle Route

There’s so much to see and do on the Pacific Marine Circle Route; a two or three day road trip is ideal. Here are some itineraries to help with your planning!

Note – I have tried to plan and time these itineraries as best I can. Keep in mind that everyone travels differently and you may spend/more less time at a place than others.

Two day itinerary

Want to see all the best places on the Pacific Marine Circle Route but don’t have a lot of time? This two day itinerary is for you!

Day 1: Victoria to Port Renfrew

From Victoria, head first to Whiffin Spit to walk the natural breakwater and take in the views.

Continue on to Sandcut Beach (via Shirley Delicious for lunch) to see the waterfall.

If you’re comfortable driving down an unpaved road (slowly!), consider Sombrio Beach as your next stop. Walk along the beach to the Hidden Waterfall if you have the time and appropriate footwear.

Your final stop of the day is Botanical Beach . Explore the tidepools before or after checking into your accommodation in Port Renfrew .

Day 2: Port Renfrew to Victoria

Avatar Grove is the first stop today, as long as you’re comfortable driving a few kilometres on an unpaved road. Walk one or both of the short trails here.

Back on Highway 14, pause at the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree . Make another stop at the Harris Spruce , a little further along the road.

Follow the winding main road to Lake Cowichan . Enjoy lunch here or continue on to Cowichan Bay . An alternative idea would be to head to one of the many wineries/breweries/cideries in the Cowichan Valley area . Some serve food while others allow guests to bring picnics.

Stretch your legs at the Kinsol Trestle near Shawnigan Lake. Return to Highway 1 to drive the Malahat Highway or take the back road.

Please note that there aren’t any accessible viewpoints on the Malahat when driving the PMCR clockwise. If seeing ocean views is a priority for you, consider the Malahat SkyWalk . Of course, you could also drive this itinerary the other way around or double back.

Three day itinerary

Have a little more time? Check out this three day Pacific Marine Circle Route itinerary.

From Victoria, head first to Whiffin Spit to walk the natural breakwater and take in the views. Sooke Potholes is next. Enjoy lunch in Sooke or continue on to Shirley Delicious .

Check out Sheringham Lighthouse before heading to Sandcut Beach see the waterfall.

If you’re comfortable driving down an unpaved road (slowly!), consider Sombrio Beach and the Hidden Waterfall as your next stop (bring appropriate footwear).

Stay overnight in Port Renfrew . If you have time to explore the tidepools at Botanical Beach before or after checking in, I’d suggest doing that. If not, plan to go early on day two.

Day 2: Port Renfrew to the Cowichan Valley

If you haven’t been to Botanical Beach , make an early start and head there this morning.

Next stop is the beautiful trees and trails of Avatar Grove (unpaved road, drive slowly). If you have a high clearance vehicle and are comfortable to explore further, consider continuing on to Big Lonely Doug and Eden Grove .

Follow the winding main road to Lake Cowichan for a late lunch. If it’s a hot day, make the side trip to Gordon Bay to swim.

Make an afternoon stop in Duncan to see the totem poles before stopping for the night in the Cowichan Valley area or Cowichan Bay. If you have the time, visit one of the local breweries/wineries/cideries for a tasting.

Day 3: Cowichan Bay to Victoria

Not staying in Cowichan Bay ? Head there this morning for a look around. Consider a whale watching or kayaking trip . Drop by one of the local breweries/wineries/cideries if you haven’t already.

The final stop on this itinerary is Goldstream Provincial Park . If you have the energy, climb to the top of Mount Finlayson for spectacular views. Alternatively, enjoy some of the flatter trails that lead from the parking area.

Four day itinerary

This four day Pacific Marine Circle Route itinerary is aimed at road trippers who want to hike and explore further off the beaten path.

Day 1: Victoria to Sooke area

From Victoria, head first to East Sooke Regional Park and hike part of the Coastal Trail from Aylard Farm. Take a picnic or enjoy a late lunch in Sooke .

Spend the early part of the afternoon at Sooke Potholes. To finish off the day, I would visit Sheringham Point Lighthouse . If you have time, try to fit in Sandcut Beach as well.

If camping, spend the night at French Creek Campground , Jordan River Regional Park or China Beach Campground . Not camping? Backtrack to Sooke .

Day 2: Sooke area to Port Renfrew

Start the day with a hike down to Mystic Beach (if you missed Sheringham Point Lighthouse the day before, head there first).

There isn’t many places to find food in this area, but you could backtrack to the Cold Shoulder Cafe in Jordan River before continuing on.

Day 3: Port Renfrew to The Cowichan Valley

Avatar Grove is the first stop today, as long as you’re comfortable driving a few kilometres on an unpaved road. Walk one or both of the short trails here. If you have the vehicle to do it, continue on to Big Lonely Doug and Eden Grove .

Day 4: The Cowichan Valley to Victoria

Ideas for longer road trips

If you have even more time to spend in this area, here are a few more ideas:

• Consider camping at Sooke Potholes on your first night, enabling you to visit every viewpoint and beach along the scenic canyon
• Spend an extra night in Port Renfrew and take some time to relax next to the ocean
• Hike some of the Juan de Fuca Trail and camp overnight at one of the many backcountry campgrounds, such as Mystic Beach, Sombrio Beach or Bear Beach
• Spend one night at Goldstream Provincial Park and explore more of the trails

Where to stay on the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Here are my top picks for accommodation along the Pacific Marine Circle Route, ordered in a clockwise direction.

• Sooke – Accommodation is on the pricey side here. Salty Towers is one of the more affordable options. If budget isn’t a consideration, don’t miss SookePoint Ocean Cottage Resort
• Port Renfrew – Treat yourself with a stay at Wild Renfrew , where you’ll find private waterfront cottages, some with hot tubs. Wild Coast Wilderness Resort is a nearby alternative
• Cowichan Valley area – One of the most reliable choices in the Valley is the Best Western Cowichan Valley Inn near Duncan
• Cowichan Bay – The best location and best views can be found at Oceanfront Suites , just a short walk from everywhere in Cowichan Bay
• Victoria – The Fairmont Empress Hotel is the most iconic property in the city, just across the water and adjacent to the BC Legislative buildings. A more affordable alternative is the nearby Royal Scot Hotel and Suites (particularly good for groups)

Campgrounds

Camping is not only cheaper than staying at accommodation, but it also offers more flexibility when it comes to overnight stops while driving the PMCR. Where possible, I’d recommend making a reservation during the summer months.

• French Beach Provincial Park Campground – A good option for campers looking to stay close to Sooke, French Beach Campground is just a short walk to the coast
• Jordan River Regional Campground – Oceanfront camping at rustic campground for only $25/night, with all sites allocated on a first come, first serve system
• China Beach Campground, Juan de Fuca Provincial Park – Set into the forest, this well spaced campground is 1km walk from the eponymous beach, where waterfalls cascade from cliffs into the ocean
• Sombrio Beach, Juan de Fuca Provincial Park – Get a taste of the Juan de Fuca Trail with a stay on this remote beach . The parking lot is 500m from the beach, so you’ll carry all of your gear in (no RVs)
• Pacheedaht Campground – 65+ campsites situated on or just behind a beautiful 2km long sandy beach near Port Renfrew. Reservations can be made via email [email protected] or phone (250) 647-0090
• Fairy Lake Recreation Site – Famous for its ‘bonsai tree’, this paid Recreation Site is very close to Port Renfrew and has a sandy beach and 36 campsites
• Gordon Bay Provincial Park Campground – While a short detour from the main PMCR route, this campground is a good choice for road trippers wanting to swim and/or paddle on Cowichan Lake
• Stoltz Pool Campground, Cowichan River Provincial Park – The closest provincial campground to the Cowichan Valley, Stolz Pool is situated by a calming river
• Goldstream Provincial Park Campground: This very popular campground has short and long hiking trails leading to the day use areas of the park

Other resources you may find helpful to plan your Vancouver Island adventure:

23+of the Best Things to Do in Courtenay Nanaimo to Tofino Road Trip Guide: 15 Amazing Places to Stop

25+ Amazing Vancouver Island Waterfalls You Must Visit Where to Find Big Trees on Vancouver Island 22+ of the Best Campgrounds on Vancouver Island, BC Ultimate 2 Week Western Canada Road Trip from Vancouver: Itinerary, Tips & Map

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Pacific Marine Circle Route Road Trip Guide

By: Author Taryn Eyton

Posted on Last updated: August 9, 2023

You don’t have to go far in BC to really get out into the wilds and off the grid. One of my favourites is a road trip on the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Southern Vancouver Island.

This road trip starts and ends in Victoria, one of BC’s biggest cities, but most of the route goes through remote wilderness. There are tons of places to stop and hike, check out waterfalls, visit enormous trees, or walk on the beach. 

Unlike some of other trips on BC’s backroads, this one is entirely paved and you go through tiny (and adorable towns) every few hours. If you’re looking for a weekend of outdoorsy adventure on Vancouver Island, you’ve got to drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route. (It even made my list of the best weekend getaways from Vancouver .)

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Table of Contents

Driving Directions

The Pacific Marine Circle Route is a loop road trip that starts and ends in Victoria on Southern Vancouver Island. (If you didn’t know, Vancouver Island is a large island on the west coast of British Columbia, and is one of Canada’s most beautiful islands .)

The route is only about 260km long and can be driven in one day, but since there is so much to see along the way, many people prefer to take a few days. Driving directions are as follows:

• From Victoria go west along highway 14 to Port Renfrew
• Next, go inland to Lake Cowichan on Pacific Marine Road
• Follow the Cowichan River and highway 18 east to Duncan
• Finish by taking highway 1 south back to Victoria.

The entire route is well signed so you won’t get lost. You can travel the loop in either direction, but I did a clockwise loop so I’m describing it that way here. I also made a custom, clickable Google map for you with all the stops highlighted!

Road Conditions and Driving Tips

The entire Pacific Marine Circle Route is paved. It used to have a gravel portion between Port Renfrew and Lake Cowichan but it was paved almost a decade ago. Besides parts of the section on highway 1 between Duncan and Victoria, it’s a two lane road with few opportunities for passing.

There are several sections that are very twisty and despite being paved, the road is a bit bumpy . There are also a handful of single lane bridges . Most of the route (besides the portion on highway 1) has very little traffic.

Some parts of the Pacific Marine Circle Route are quite remote and there are a few stretches where you’ll go quite a while without passing any services.

In particular, there aren’t any stores, restaurants or gas stations between Sooke and Lake Cowichan except in Port Renfrew. There is a gas station in Port Renfrew but you can’t count on it being open so it’s best to fuel up in Sooke.

There is no cell coverage on the western part of the route. You will lose cell service between Sooke and Lake Cowichan. As I said, the road is well signed so as long as you stay on the main road, you will be fine.

However, if you plan to take any side trips off the main route you should bring paper maps or a GPS . (And believe me, I’ve got some side trips for you that are definitely worth it!)

I used the Vancouver Island Backroad Mapbook on my roadtrip of the Pacific Marine Circle Tour. It was really helpful, especially at some confusing logging road junctions.

You can definitely drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route in a single day. It takes about 5 hours to drive with no stops . But many of the stops will take you an hour or more, so it’s best to split the trip up over several days. Two days is great but three or four is better.

It’s easy to rent a car in Victoria or at the Victoria Airport. I use Discover Cars because it lets you compare prices from lots of different car rental companies to get the best deal.

Places to Stop on the Pacific Marine Circle Route

East sooke regional park.

Explore the windswept coast in East Sooke Park. There are 50km of trails to choose from with varying difficult.

If you want a short walk , hike 5 minutes from the Aylard Farm trailhead to explore the nearby beach. If you have more time , hike some of the Coastal Trail. Bring a copy of the trail map to help you find your way.

To get to East Sooke Park, turn left onto Gillespie Road. Follow the signs to the park via East Sooke Road and Beecher Bay Road. Click here for google maps driving directions .

Sooke Potholes

The Sooke potholes are a popular place for swimming in the river rock pools when the water levels are low in the summer. (In the winter they just look like rapids.)  You can also hike on the numerous trails to get great views of the river.

The ruins of an old lodge sit right next to the edge of the river canyon. There’s a fence around the ruins, and they are officially off-limits, but the area has become a favourite for local graffiti artists.

To get to the Sooke Potholes turn right on Sooke River Road. If you cross the bridge over the Sooke River, you’ve gone too far. Follow Sooke River Road up the hill into Sooke Potholes Provincial Park . Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

There is one river access point here, but for more river access points and the hiking trails, continue a few kilometers further to Sooke Potholes Regional Park .

Make sure you stock up on gas and groceries in the little town of Sooke , BC (population 13,000). It’s the largest centre you’ll pass through until Lake Cowichan, about 130km further along the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

There are a few cafes, coffee shops and fast food options if you need to take a break. I like both The Stick in the Mud Coffee House and Serious Coffee.

Whiffin Spit

A sand spit over 1km long protects Sooke Harbour. Take a walk out along the spit to get great views of the calm Sooke basin on one side and the wilder Juan de Fuca straight on the other side. There’s a gravel trail out to the end of the spit and benches to sit on if you just want to take in the scenery.

To get to Whiffen Spit, turn left onto Whiffen Spit road about 2km after the round about in “downtown” Sooke. Follow the road to it’s end past the famous Sooke Harbour House hotel and restaurant. There’s a small parking lot and it can be very busy. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

Shirley Delicious

About 20 minutes past Sooke you’ll see a little A-frame cabin on the left hand side. That’s Shirley Delicious . It’s an adorable cafe, bakery and coffee shop that you can’t miss. The owner is so friendly.

To get to Shirley Delicious turn left onto Sheringham Point road about 20 minutes past Sooke. It’s right after you pass the Shirley Community Hall. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

 Sandcut Beach

For years I had seen amazing photos of the waterfall at Sandcut Beach on Instagram, so I was really stoked to finally see it for myself.

The water pours over the lip of the sandstone cliff onto the beach. In drier weather you can walk behind the falls, but when I visited in springtime, the flow of the falls was way too heavy.

To get to Sandcut Beach look for a small signed parking lot on your left about 10 minutes past Shirley Delicious. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

From the parking lot it’s a 10 minute hike through the forest to the beach. The trail can be muddy. Once at the beach, turn left and walk along the gravelly beach for another 5 minutes to the falls.

Mystic Beach

Mystic Beach is located at the southern end of the Juan de Fuca Trail , a 47km coastal backpack trip that I think of as the West Coast Trail’s younger cousin.

You don’t have to do the whole trail to visit Mystic Beach: you can hike 2 km down to the beach and admire the wild West Coast scenery.

The beach is a popular day hiking destination thanks to its photogenic waterfall . If you brought camping gear, you can camp overnight. (See my Juan de Fuca trail guide for more info.)

To get to Mystic Beach turn left into the China Beach day use parking lot in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. It’s about 7 minutes past Sandcut Beach. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

It’s a 2km hike to the beach. Along the way you’ll cross a suspension bridge high over Pete Wolf Creek.

READ NEXT: Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Sombrio Beach

Sombrio Beach is located around the mid-point of the Juan de Fuca Trail . It’s a popular place for walk-in camping on the beach as well as for surfing .

The beach stretches around a wide bay and there is lots to explore. One of the most interesting features of the beach is the waterfall hidden in a mossy canyon .

If you want to find the hidden waterfall, turn left and walk down the beach until you see an outhouse in the trees. A minute past the outhouse you’ll see a creek flowing out on to the beach. Follow the creek upstream to find the waterfall. (Be prepared to get your feet wet!)

The canyon is a sensitive place and is sacred to the Pacheedaht First Nation so please be respectful. There is already some graffiti in the canyon – please don’t add any more.

To get to Sombio Beach, drive 21km from the Mystic Beach parking lot. Look for a gravel road on your left. It may be signed for Sombio Beach but often the sign is missing. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

From here it’s a 2km drive on a rough gravel road down to the parking lot. Most regular cars can make it but it is very bumpy with lots of potholes so you might prefer to park at the top and walk down if you don’t have a 4wd.

From the parking lot it’s an easy 5 minute walk to the beach.

Port Renfrew

Port Renfrew is pretty unique. It’s a tiny town at the end of highway 14. Traditionally most people knew it as a great fishing spot or as one of the starting points for both the West Coast Trail and the Juan de Fuca Trail .

It’s a gritty little logging town that is slowly transforming itself into a cute eco-tourism hub thanks to its new reputation as the tall tree capital of Canada.

There isn’t a real designated centre to the town – it’s kind of spread out. Be sure to head down to the dock next to the Port Renfrew Pub at the end of highway 14 to grab some photos.

Port Renfrew makes a great basecamp for day trips in the area . On my trip we camped one night at the Pacheedaht campground and spend our second night in town at the fabulous waterfront Wild Renfrew cabins.

There is a small general store in town if you need supplies. The Port Renfew Pub is open year round and there are two other seasonal restaurants . There’s a seasonal gas station at the marina and a brand new gas station right at the entrance to town.

Botanical Beach and Botany Bay

If you are in the area, you can’t miss the tide pools at Botanical Beach . Located inside Juan de Fuca Provincial Park , the area is so ecologically diverse that marine biologists have been studying here for over 100 years.

Check the tide table before you go so you can time your visit for the lowest tides . Try to aim for a tide of 1.2m or less.

After exploring at Botanical Beach, take the loop trail heading west along the coast to Botany Bay. Along the way you’ll pass through beautiful coastal rainforest. There are several beach access trails at Botany Bay, plus a couple of great view points on the bluff above the beach.

The trail loops back to your starting point at the parking lot. The Botanical Beach/Botany Bay loop trail is 2.8km long and takes about an hour to hike… plus stops. (You’re going to want to make a LOT of stops.)

To get to the Botanical Beach and Botany Bay trailhead, turn left on to Cerantes Road where highway 14 dead-ends in front of the Port Renfrew Pub. Drive about 5 minutes on this road until it ends in the Botanical Beach parking lot of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Port Renfrew’s Big Trees

You can visit some of the world’s largest and oldest trees near Port Renfrew. Canada’s Gnarliest Cedar is in Avatar Grove, an easy 10km drive from town. Slightly further afield is Big Lonely Doug, the world’s second largest Douglas Fir.

Doug stands alone in a clearcut, so you can really get a sense of how tall he is. There are a few other record setting trees in the area as well including the Harris Creek Spruce, the Red Creek Fir and the San Juan Spruce.

You can visit all of the trees as a day trip from Port Renfrew or as part of your Pacific Marine Circle Tour road trip. A few of the trees require 4 wheel drive to visit, but most are on easily accessible (but bumpy) gravel roads.

I have a complete guide to visiting them all in my article  How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island .

READ NEXT: How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees

Fairy Lake is just outside Port Renfrew. There’s a campsite there and a short nature trail, but the real star is the internet-famous bansai tree of Fairy Lake . This plucky little tree is growing out of a partially submerged log near the edge of the lake.

If you come in the spring like I did, the lake level will be high and the partially submerged log will be almost entirely underwater.

To see the tree drive past the entrance to the Fairy Lake Recreate Site Campground and pull over on to the gravel shoulder once the lake comes in to view. This is the best place to see the tree. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

Lake Cowichan

The town of Lake Cowichan is pretty small, but compared to Port Renfrew, it’s a metropolis. This is a g reat place to stop for gas, groceries or something to eat . You may also want to stretch your legs with a walk along the lakeshore at the community park.

Cowichan Valley Trail

Just outside of Lake Cowichan you can access the Cowichan Valley Trail. This trail is actually part of the Trans-Canada Trail.

The Cowichan Valley Trail is built on an old rail bed . It has a crushed gravel surface that makes it great for easy walks or bike rides . The trail also crosses a few old wooden train trestles high above the valley.

The main access point for the Cowichan Valley Trail is right in the town of Lake Cowichan on Cowichan Lake road just before you turn on to highway 18. You can also access it via several side roads off highway 18. There’s lots more info on the TrailsBC website.

Cowichan River Footpath

If you want a slightly more challenging (but still easy) hike, head to the Cowichan River Footpath in Cowichan River Provincial Park . This footpath meaders next to the Cowichan River through lush rain forests downstream to an old train trestle bridge over then river, then heads back up the other side.

You can start and finish your hike at Skutz Falls , a popular swimming hole in the summer and a great place to watch salmon jump up the fish ladders in the fall.

To get to the Cowichan River Footpath, turn right onto Mayo Road from highway 18 about 9km from Lake Cowichan. Follow Mayo Road downhill to the river and park near the bridge. The trail starts from either side of the bridge. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

Duncan and the Cowichan Valley

The town of Duncan and the Cowichan Valley are the agricultural heart of Southern Vancouver Island. There are tons of farms, wineries, and dairies . Try to time your visit so you can shop at the farmers market in Duncan on Saturdays or Cobble Hill on Sundays (summer only).

Some of the farms and wineries also have on-site shops and tasting rooms .

Malahat Drive

In order to get back to Victoria you’ll have to climb up and over the Malahat Summit. Rising 300m above the waters of Saanich Inlet, Malahat Summit isn’t really that high up, but it still provides excellent views .

There are a few viewpoints but you can only access them in you are driving north. If you are southbound, you’ll have to continue past them to the next U-turn location.

I haven’t had a chance to visit yet, but the Malahat Skywalk is also a great place for incredible views. It’s a huge circular elevated walkway that rises out of the forest. You can walk back down or take a ride on their slide.

Save time by buying tickets in advance .

Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

• Goldstream Provincial Park

At the end of the Malahat, just before reaching Victoria, lies Goldstream Provincial Park . This popular park has tons of hiking trails and a campground.

If you want a mountain hike , head up the steep trail to Mount Finlayson . If you’re after waterfalls, visit BC’s very own Niagara Falls on a short 1.3km hike.

The park is also a great place to go bird watching – it’s even on the BC Bird Trail . On a recent visit I strolled on the streamside path and spotted eagles, American dippers, and common mergansers.

To get to Goldstream Provincial Park turn left onto Finlayson Arm Road just as the highway finishes it’s descent to sea level fro the Malahat. There is a flashing traffic light at this intersection and a provincial parks sign. The parking lot is just off the highway. Click here for Google Maps driving directions .

Before heading back to Victoria, stop in the city of Langford. Located on the outskirts of Victoria, it’s the fastest growing community in BC. That means that for a suburban centre, it has incredible food .

Don’t miss a show-stopper meal at House of Boateng . I had an incredible six course long table dinner at their nearby event space, but you can book in to their award-winning restaurant as well.

If you’re looking for something more casual, Rhino Coffee has great doughnuts, sandwiches, and of course coffee . And don’t miss the incredible handmade ice cream at Parachute Ice Cream .

Where to Stay

There are lots of accommodation options on the Pacific Marine Circle Route, from cute cabins, to waterfront campsites to posh inns. If you’re just staying one night, it makes the most sense to base yourself in Port Renfrew as it’s essentially the half-way point.

If your trip is a bit longer, you could consider booking accommodation in Sooke, Lake Cowichan, the Cowichan Valley, or Langford as well.

On one of my trips we actually spent two nights in Port Renfrew as you can take lots of great day trips from there. (You can’t miss Avatar Grove and Big Lonely Doug !)

In Port Renfrew I recommend the cabins at Wild Renfrew . They are right on the pier in Port Renfrew near the pub. The cabins have covered patios overlooking the ocean and gas powered fire pits. It was great to sit on the patio, listening to the rain on the roof after a long day of exploring.

Want more ideas for cozy cabins in the area? Check out my list of the best cabin rentals in BC .

For a splurge , stay at the Westin Bear Mountain Resort in Langford at the beginning or end of your Pacific Marine Circle Route road trip. It has a beautiful mountain top location and a great on-site restaurant. It also makes a good base for foodie stops in Langford or trips to Goldstream Provincial Park.

If you’re rather camp , there are lots of options along the route. I love the Pacheedaht campground just outside Port Renfrew. It’s right on the beach and the sunsets are spectacular!

Here’s a list of all the campgrounds you’ll pass on the Pacific Marine Circle Route:

• Sooke Potholes Regional Park
• Sooke River Campground
• French Beach Provincial Park
• Jordan River Regional Park
• Juan de Fuca Provincial Park China Beach Campground
• Juan de Fuca Provincial Park Sombrio Beach Campground (walk-in only)
• Pacheedaht Campground: Phone 250-647-0090
• Fairy Lake Recreation Site
• Lizard Lake Recreation Site
• Lakeview Park Campsite
• Cowichan River Provincial Park
• Bamberton Provincial Park

I’ve driven the Pacific Marine Circle Route a few times, and I just keep going back. In particular I love Port Renfrew. It’s a tiny logging town that is transitioning to eco-tourism while (mostly) retaining its gritty roots. And to me that’s so quintessentially BC. You have to go visit!  Have you already been? Let me know in the comments.

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Angie Norman

Tuesday 16th of July 2024

Hi Taryn, We're a retired couple from the UK and are hiring a 32ft RV. We're considering doing the Pacific Marine circle route. Do you think it is safe to do this? I welcome your comments. Many thanks Angie Norman

Taryn Eyton

Lots of people drive this route in RVs every year - it is safe to do so and is allowed. However, it depends on your level of comfort with driving a long vehicle. The road is narrow, twisty, and bumpy. There are also no passing lanes so you will likely need to pull over to let traffic pass periodically.

Tuesday 21st of May 2024

Hello. We are staying in Victoria for a couple days and have also booked 2 days in Sooke. I was thinking of taking this drive to visit Malahat Skywalk and then onward to enjoy a scenic drive landing in Sooke. What other stops do your recommend on the way to Sooke? Sounds like Port Renfew is your favorite. Should we just head there for a lunch stop and hike around this area before checking in? Wondering if I should just do this drive another time and do Victoria and Sooke, and Port Renfew as a day trip from Sooke.

You could certainly drive the entire loop in a day, but it would be rushed. My advice would be to spend one of your days in Sooke driving to Port Renfrew and back and stopping at some of the places mentioned in this post. The drive to Sooke from Victoria is mostly on highways through Victoria's outer suburbs so there isn't really anywhere in particular I would recommend you stop before you get to Sooke. Have a great trip.

Sunday 27th of August 2023

Hi Taryn Thank you for your wonderful and detailed article - so full of helpful information! I have done this route once before, but with not a lot of time for many stops. We will be heading out again in September and are hoping to explore much more of the area. I have read now that Avatar Grove is closed for trail upgrades? Do you happen to have any more up-to-date information on this closure (and/or expected re-opening)?

Sunday 10th of September 2023

The only info I have is on the Sites and Trails BC website here: http://www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca/search/search-result.aspx?site=REC202159&type=Site You could try getting in touch with the Port Renfrew visitor info centre. They might know more.

Tuesday 1st of August 2023

Amazing! Is there any stand up paddle board places you recommend?

Tuesday 8th of August 2023

@Taryn Eyton, Thank you for your recommendations! I will be spending weekend at the Wild Renfrew towards the end of the month. Your guide has been super helpful in planning a trip around the Paciic Marine Circle. Best guide on the internet I've found! With the House of Boateng being shut down for dinner... Any other places you'd reccommend for nicer dining experiences?

Wednesday 2nd of August 2023

The coast is fairly exposed in most places along the route. The best places to SUP would be Sooke Harbour and Lake Cowichan.

Danielle B.

Monday 14th of March 2022

I'll do the Pacific Marine Circle route next month. Your guide is the best I've found! Love the tips on parks and trails and your helpful and insightful comments. Just saying thank you :)

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Pacific Marine Circle Route: Road Trip Guide

Southern Vancouver Island is famous for its dramatic coastal landscapes, variety of outdoor activities, and ample wildlife-watching opportunities.

If you’re looking to appreciate the beauty of BC, then this area should be right at the top of your bucket list.

To explore Southern Vancouver Island in its entirety, you’ll want to drive the iconic Pacific Marine Circle Route. It’s a loop route that will take you along the coastline and into the middle of the island, so you’ll get to explore a wealth of landscapes.

Planning this epic road trip route can often feel overwhelming, but don’t worry, we’re here to help! With this guide, we’ll take you through everything you need to know when it comes to the Pacific Marine Circle Route.  This includes the best places to visit, where to stay, and some other top tips.

Pacific Marine Circle Route Overview

Covering a total distance of 263 km (163 miles), the Pacific Marine Circle Route takes you along the coastline and through the old-growth forests of Southern Vancouver Island.

This epic road trip starts (and ends) in Victoria, BC’s beautiful capital city, and takes you along the wild coastline past Sooke and to the towering trees of Port Renfrew.

From there, you’ll loop back inland to explore the stunning lakes and wineries of the Cowichan Valley. End your adventures by driving back along the beautiful Saanich Inlet, stopping to see spectacular waterfalls, sea lions, and spawning salmon.

With unparalleled views along the way, this is a road trip that you won’t want to skip! It only takes about 5 hours to drive the entire loop, but you’ll want at least two to three days to fully explore everything that it has to offer.

And, while we’d recommend driving the whole route for the best experience, you can split the journey up, or pick different start/end points if you wish!

Driving Directions

The Pacific Marine Circle Route loops around Southern Vancouver Island, starting and ending in Victoria, BC. It’s about 263 km long and while it can be driven in a day (about 5 hours if you don’t stop), we highly recommend taking at least two or three days to drive it. There’s so much to see and do!

You can drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route in either direction. We prefer driving the loop clockwise, so that’s how we will present it in this article. We don’t really have a reason for why we prefer this direction though. The road trip is great in both directions!

Assuming you drive the loop clockwise, you’ll leave Victoria and adventure along Highway 14, past Juan de Fuca Provincial Park and to Port Renfrew. Once there, you’ll follow the Pacific Marine Road north to Lake Cowichan. The next leg of the journey follows the Cowichan River, taking you east along Highway 18 to Duncan. Lastly, you’ll drive south on Highway 1 (the Malahat Highway) back to Victoria.

If you’re short of time, then you can just drive a section or two of this iconic road trip. Nonetheless, you should really try to drive the whole route as it has so much to offer!

Tips for Driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Before we dive into the best places to visit, where to stay, and all the other juicy stuff, we’ve got some top driving tips that you should know about the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

First of all, the main roads along this road trip are all paved. That being said, if you venture off the highways (which you should), expect bumpy gravel roads with potholes. Generally, you won’t need a 4WD vehicle to get to most places though (except a few of Port Renfrew’s big trees).

Keep in mind that even the main roads are relatively twisty and bumpy. Also, most of the highways have just two lanes (and some single-lane bridges). Make sure to pull over and let faster vehicles pass!

Another key thing to mention: you’ll find very limited services between Sooke and Lake Cowichan. There are no gas stations, stores, or restaurants, except for in Port Renfrew — and those aren’t always open. We recommend filling up at a gas station in Sooke or Lake Cowichan and making sure you have all the essentials beforehand!

Cell service is also very limited along parts of the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Reception is improving — a cell tower was recently built near Sooke — but you’ll still lose service at some point between Sooke and Lake Cowichan.

While the roads are well signed, bring a backroads map or download offline maps so you don’t get lost when out of service. We’d also recommend bringing a Garmin InReach for when you’re off-grid. It can be a lifesaver if there’s an emergency.

Also, you’ll likely get cell service from the US towers — make sure to turn off roaming while along the Juan de Fuca Strait so you don’t get extra charges!

Lastly, if you drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route during winter (which is just as beautiful as the summer and a great time to see the waterfalls), you’ll need winter tires to complete the trip. From October 1 to March 31, the Malahat Highway (Highway 1) and Highways 14 and 18 all require winter tires — even if there’s no snow.

How Long Is the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Technically, it’s possible to drive the whole Pacific Marine Circle Route (263 km) in one day. It will take you around 5 hours but that’s without any stops — and really, what’s the point of that? Especially when there are so many fabulous places to visit along the way!

Most of the activities in this guide will take at least a few hours. You’ll also want time to explore the towns and stop to enjoy the views or for a bite to eat!

We’d recommend taking at least 2-3 days to drive the whole route. This will give you plenty of time to enjoy the views, visit some of the area’s iconic attractions, and relax too.

Best Stops & Places to See on the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route is a bucket list experience for sure! Boasting dramatic landscapes, coastal forests, and wild beaches, the beauty of this area will take your breath away.

From epic views to marine mammal sightings, there’s no shortage of things to do and see along the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Below, we’re going to cover some of the very best places along the Pacific Marine Circle Route, so make sure they’re included in your road trip itinerary!

1. Victoria to Sooke

Starting in Victoria, you’ll head on a 40 km drive to Sooke. Without stops, the drive will take around 45 minutes — although there are a couple of fantastic places to visit along the way!

If you’re from Victoria, then you’ll likely want to jump right into the road trip. The roads are relatively winding, so take your time and enjoy the drive after you’ve left the city.

However, if you’re new to the area, then you’ll want to spend some time exploring the beautiful city of Victoria first, as there’s a lot to see! It’s the capital of British Columbia after all, so you should allow an extra day for explore here first (or at the very end of your trip).

You’ll find endless things to do in Victoria, but it all depends on how long you have in the city. If you only have a single day, check out our one-day itinerary for Victoria to make the most of your time.

One of the most popular activities in Victoria is whale watching. This half-day tour is a fantastic option, which gives you opportunities to see orcas and whales while exploring the beautiful coastline.

After a whale watching tour, spend some time exploring downtown Victoria. Here, you’ll find the BC Parliament Buildings, The Empress, and Royal BC Museum, all standing beside the gorgeous Inner Harbour.

You can also take a bus shuttle up to the famous Butchart Gardens, one of the most beautiful gardens in Victoria . These gardens shouldn’t be missed and are definitely one of the highlights of the city!

Once you’re headed out of the city for your road trip, you could also visit Thetis Lake or Esquimalt Lagoon . These are both great options if you are eager to get right into nature.

Check out our guide to the best things to do in Victoria , if you’re wanting to spend a few hours in this incredible city! 

East Sooke Regional Park

East Sooke Regional Park is known for its stunning rainforest and beautiful rugged coastline. With small pocket beaches, towering trees, and crystal blue waters, the park offers a variety of beautiful places to visit and things to do.

Stop near Aylard Farm for a picnic by the ocean or walk alongside the shoreline to see the unique Alldridge Point Petroglyph. Follow Pike Road down to the scenic Iron Mine Bay or head out on an adventure on some of the 50 kilometres of trail that lead through the park.

If you want to fully experience East Sooke Regional Park’s coastal beauty, go for a hike along the 10-km Coastal Trail. Along its entire length, you’ll be treated to striking views of the Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A popular but challenging hike, you’ll need two vehicles parked on either end of the trail if you want to complete the entire trek.

From lush ferns and colorful arbutus trees to soaring eagles and swimming seals, East Sooke is an excellent place to get immersed in nature. Also, this is a great area for whale watching — we’ve spotted grey whales and porpoises, right from shore!

Sea to Sea Regional Park

Next up is Sea to Sea Regional Park . Boasting an area of nearly 4,000 hectares, this huge wilderness area has a lot to offer.

First of all, there are around 57 km of hiking, horse trekking, and mountain biking trails here. Popular hikes include Mount Manuel Quimper, Mount Brule, and Empress Mountain, all of which offer stunning views of the surrounding area. 

Hiking trails will also take you to some beautiful lakes within Sea to Sea Regional Park including Peden, Crabapple, Grass, and Shields. These trails start at the Sooke Potholes — another incredibly beautiful park to check out.

Don’t miss the Mary Creek Waterfall on the Peden Lake Trail — one of the best waterfalls around Victoria !

With a town motto of ‘Where the Rainforest Meets the Sea’, Sooke is a charming town that’s located exactly where you’d expect: on the seafront.

The nearby Sooke Potholes and East Sooke Park are definitely some of the highlights of Sooke. The town itself is small, but you’ll still find plenty of things to do and see.

Some of the most popular in-town attractions include the Sooke Region Museum, the Sooke Basin (perfect for a kayak or paddleboard adventure), and the peaceful Ella Beach.

There’s also Whiffin Spit and the long boardwalk at Ed Macgregor Park, so don’t rush your time here. In fact, we’d recommend staying here overnight if you have the chance!

Where to Stay in Sooke

Prestige Oceanfront Resort – With a harbourfront location, this resort offers a variety of awesome facilities including several dining options, a sports lounge, a hot tub, and an indoor swimming pool. There’s even a modern spa on-site.

SookePoint Ocean Cottage Resort – Perched along the rocky coastline, the suites here are beautiful and offer spectacular sea views. You might even be able to watch whales right from the comfort of your own suite!

Sooke Potholes

Within Sooke Potholes Regional Park , you’ll find the area’s incredible potholes. These deep pools along the river are great for swimming during the summer months (although the water is pretty chilly).

You’ll find plenty of hang-out spots by the water where you can relax, sunbathe, or jump in for a swim. Even if you don’t want to get wet, the water is a quite stunning color and great for photographs!

If you’re visiting during the winter, make sure you check out Mary Vine Creek Waterfall. One of the best waterfalls near Victoria , this beautiful waterfall is best seen in winter (it often dries up in the summer).

Sooke Potholes Regional Park offers great hiking opportunities year-round. Some of the trails even head into the Sea to Sea Regional Park. There’s also a campground here during the summer if you’re traveling on a budget.

2. Sooke to Port Renfrew

Once you’re done exploring Sooke, the next leg of your journey will take you to Port Renfrew and the wild west coast of Vancouver Island.

From Sooke to Port Renfrew, you’ll be covering a total distance of 71 km. Without stopping, this drive will take around 1.5 hours. But there’s tons to see along this part of the Pacific Marine Circle Route so you’ll want to allow a lot longer than that!

With breathtaking scenery and epic beaches, this part of the drive is probably our favorite section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Beautiful beaches, huge trees, and plenty of waterfalls await you on this part of the road trip.

The key thing to mention is that services are very limited along this route until you reach Port Renfrew. For that reason, make sure your vehicle is filled up with gas and that you have an offline map to guide your adventures!

Shirley Delicious

One of the unexpected gems along this stretch of road trip is Shirley Delicious, a highly-rated cafe nestled in the woods of Shirley.

Located just past Sooke, this restaurant is the perfect spot to stop for a bite to eat before starting your big day of exploring. The cafe lives up to its name — the food here is delicious!

Recently, Shirley Delicious was even rated the 13th top restaurant in all of Canada. With tasty food, friendly staff, a great atmosphere, and quirky decor, this cafe will surely charm you!

The only downside? Shirley Delicious gets pretty busy during peak hours. Although there’s often a line, this place is certainly worth the wait.

Sheringham Point Lighthouse

Your next stop around Shirley should be the Sheringham Point Lighthouse . This striking red-and-white National Heritage Lighthouse is a quick stop on your road trip, but is great for a photo or two.

Maintained by the Sheringham Point Lighthouse Preservation Society, the lighthouse is open every day, usually from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Access to the Sheringham Point Lighthouse is via Jennie’s Trail, a short and easy walking trail. There is also another 3.4-km loop trail through the nearby Sheringham Community Park.

Make sure to listen for whales while you’re at the lighthouse. There’s a speaker on the ocean side of the lighthouse, which is connected to an underwater hydrophone. If there are any whales in the area, you’ll be able to hear them!

French Beach Provincial Park

French Beach Provincial Park is a must-visit while driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route. In fact, it’s one of the most easily accessed beaches along this part of the road trip — so it’s definitely worth a stop.

French Beach sits alongside the Strait of Juan de Fuca and offers you a first taste of some of the beautiful beaches that await you on this leg of the road trip. The beach is a mix of sand and rock, and is renowned for its wildlife-watching opportunities.

For those who enjoy camping, French Beach Campground is an ideal spot to set up your tent or trailer. The drive-in campsites are surrounded by moss-covered trees and are just a short walk to the water!

Sandcut Beach

Sandcut Beach is home to one of our favorite waterfalls in Southern Vancouver Island. Cascading right onto the beach, this waterfall is absolutely picturesque.

When combined with a beautiful beach, this is another place that you’ll definitely want to include on your Pacific Marine Circle Route road trip!

To reach the beach you’ll need to walk for around 400-m down through coastal rainforest from the parking lot. Once you reach the shore, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the Olympic Peninsula.

Head south to the end of the beach to find the waterfall. Once you’re there, take lots of time to explore the waterfall. If you’re careful, you can climb to the top of the small rock shelf. Sometimes, you can even get behind the waterfall itself!

Sandcut Beach is part of Jordan River Regional Park — but we feel like this beach is important enough to mention separately!

Jordan River

As you continue along Highway 14, you’ll suddenly come across a wide unobstructed view of the ocean — here, you’ll find the rest of Jordan River Regional Park .

If you stopped at Sandcut Beach, then you’ve already explored part of Jordan River. The beach here is pretty similar (but without the waterfall) so you might want to pass it by for some of the next beaches. However, we think it’s a pretty spot to stop and enjoy the ocean views… and if you’re lucky, you can watch some surfers catch the waves!

Jordan River is a popular surfing spot on Vancouver Island (although nothing beats Tofino ). In fact, its one of the few good surf spots in all of British Columbia ! The swells are especially good during the winter months… but watch out for rocks!

There’s also a campground at Jordan River Regional Park, which offers sea views, toilets, fire rings, and a drinking water station. Spaces are on a first-come first-served basis.

The campground isn’t quite our cup of tea though. It’s right beside the road and offers little privacy, although is an ideal campground for surfers. Otherwise, we recommend staying at French Beach, China Beach, or one of the backcountry beaches in Juan de Fuca Park.

China Beach

Boasting breathtaking beauty and ample wildlife-watching opportunities, China Beach in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park isn’t a place that you want to miss.

While it is a bit of a walk down to the beach, you’ll be hiking through lush coastal rainforest. Once you arrive at the beach, you’ll be treated to a huge, beautiful beach where you can watch the waves roll in.

Sunbathe on the sandier shores of the beach’s west side, or explore the rocky area along the eastern side of China Beach. Rocky coastline surrounds the beach, with small waterfalls hidden along the shoreline.

You’ll want to park up at the day-use area but there’s also a campground here to the east of this area. The campground is a beautiful place to spend a day or two, if you have the time.

Mystic Beach

Mystic Beach is considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Canada, thanks to its lush forest backdrop, coastal cliffs, and stunning beachside waterfall. 

The highlight of Mystic Beach is the massive waterfall that cascades down an oceanside cliff, falling right onto the beach. The waterfall is great for cooling off after your hike and makes for some awesome photos!

To reach Mystic Beach, you’ll hike 2-km from the China Beach day-use parking lot. In fact, the trail you’ll be walking along is actually the start of the iconic Juan de Fuca Trail .

Not only is Mystic Beach impressive, but the hike to it offers stunning scenery. There’s even a suspension bridge to cross over Pete Wolfe Creek.

Definitely wear hiking shoes or runners to get to Mystic Beach. We’ve seen lots of people attempt this hike in sandals and we don’t recommend doing that!!

If you’re looking to experience the ‘wild side’, then backcountry camping is available beside the beach. Just make sure you pitch up above the high tide line! 

Sombrio Beach

Sombrio Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park and it’s easy to understand why. This huge rocky beach is framed with tall Douglas fir trees and overlooks the distant Olympic Mountains.

In addition to being jaw-droppingly beautiful, the beach is also easy to access by vehicle. There’s a parking lot and from there, it’s just a short walk down to the shore. Also, Sombrio Beach lies along part of the backcountry Juan de Fuca Trail so it’s popular with hikers and backpackers.

While its not as obvious as Mystic Beach, Sombrio also features a waterfall — but you’ll have to search for it! The hidden waterfall is tucked into the forest, at the end of a small moss-covered canyon.

To find the waterfall, walk to East Sombrio and then follow a small creek up into the forest. While it was once a secret, the waterfall is becoming common knowledge — so if you can’t find it, just ask someone.

Despite being rocky, Sombrio Beach is one of the best surfing spots on Vancouver Island . And like many of the other beaches in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, you can camp along this beach. Just choose your tent location wisely — stay above the high tide line!

Port Renfrew

While just a small oceanside village, Port Renfrew serves as the gateway to some of Vancouver Island’s best outdoor adventures.

Port Renfrew is home to the southern trailhead of the famous West Coast Trail and the northern Botanical Beach end of the Juan de Fuca Trail . These multi-day trails take backpackers along stunning coastal scenery and through huge forests.

Often called the ‘Tall Tree Capital of Canada’, Port Renfrew is also known for its towering ancient trees in Avatar Grove, the huge Big Lonely Doug, and other surrounding big trees. If you want to see big old-growth trees, this is the place to do so.

Another one of the most popular activities here is whale watching, and this small-group whale-watching tour is a great option. It’s run by Orca Spirit Adventures. You’ll have the chance to see whales, as well as the Carmanah lighthouse and Sea Lion Rock!

While in Port Renfrew, make sure to stop at the Renfrew Pub for a bite to eat and a drink. Also, make sure to check out the dock here too. The village is also a good spot to stay the night after a long day of adventuring, before heading north towards the Cowichan Valley.

• Where to Stay in Port Renfrew

Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages — This is the best place to stay in Port Renfrew, in our opinion. You’ll be staying in cozy, sea-facing cottages. Some of them even feature a fire pit and private hot tub!

West Coast Trail Lodge — There are 20 renovated suites to choose from at West Coast Trail Lodge and many of them offer ocean and forest views.

Botanical Beach and Botany Bay

Just a few kilometers from Port Renfrew, you’ll find the beautiful Botanical Beach and Botany Bay. Here, you’ll find some of the best tide pooling on all of Vancouver Island .

One of the highlights of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, Botanical Beach is renowned for its unique tidal pools carved into the sandstone beach by the ocean. These bowl-shaped tidal pools are filled with a rich diversity of vibrant marine life, from spiky urchins to purple sea stars.

You’ll need to time your visit at low tide to truly experience this ecological wonder. If you visit at high tide, you can still enjoy the breathtaking vistas but the tidal pools will be underwater.

Botany Bay is adjacent to Botanical Beach, so make sure to visit both locations at the same time.

As a heads up, sometimes there’s bear activity in the area, and you can also spot whales off the coast (we’ve seen a gray whale feeding meters offshore).

3. Port Renfrew to Lake Cowichan

The next step of your Pacific Marine Circle Route journey will take you from the rugged coast near Port Renfrew to the peaceful Cowichan Valley, where an entirely different world awaits.

As you leave the picturesque shores behind, your route will take you through lush forests, past beautiful lakes and to quaint villages. The majority of this section will take you inland, along a forest road. However, the views are just as impressive as the coast! 

The drive from Port Renfrew to Lake Cowichan is a total distance of 62 km. Without stopping, it’ll take you 1.25 hours — but you’ll want to allow much longer as this is a great area for seeing some of Canada’s oldest and largest trees.

Just be aware that cell service is very spotty along this section, and in some areas, you won’t have any signal at all. 

Avatar Grove and Big Lonely Doug

Looking to see some of the best examples of ancient trees on Vancouver Island?

If you’re driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route then you can’t miss out on stopping to see Avatar Grove and Big Lonely Doug.

Avatar Grove is home to many old-growth trees, including Canada’s Gnarliest Cedar tree (a cedar with a huge knotty growth called a burl). There are two forest sections to explore at Avatar Grove: the Upper Grove and the Lower Grove.

Next up is Big Lonely Doug, which is the second-largest tree in Canada. Over 70 meters high, this huge tree sadly stands alone in an empty cutblock within the Gordon River Valley.

Other popular spots for old-growth trees include Harris Creek Sitka Spruce, the San Juan Spruce, and Red Creek Fir.

Most of the trees are accessed down logging roads so drive carefully! For more accessible old-growth trees, check out Cathedral Grove, which is near Port Alberni but not part of the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree

Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree is a popular spot for photography along the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Located out on Fairy Lake, you’ll see a fallen log with a tiny bonsai-like Douglas fir tree sitting on top of it. Somehow, this stunted tree has managed to survive its rather unique conditions in the middle of the lake and today, it’s a popular photography spot. 

The bonsai tree is located near Fairy Lake Recreation Site Campground, and you can actually view it from the road. For a closer look, wander right down to the water’s edge. You won’t need much time to stop here, but it’s a cool place to photograph.

Lake Cowichan

Lake Cowichan is a charming town that’s located on the lake itself, so naturally, you’ll find a variety of water-based activities here.  There are plenty of services here too including restaurants, a grocery store, and a gas station! 

One of the best places to visit is The Tube Shack which offers one of the best tubing experiences down the Cowichan River. Other popular attractions include Arbutus Park, Gordon Bay Provincial Park, and Little Beach.

While staying here, you can also hike up Bald Mountain, visit Kaatza Station Museum, and walk along Duck Pond Bridge, so there’s a lot that the town offers! 

4. Lake Cowichan to Duncan

After Lake Cowichan, you’ll be heading back to the eastern coast of Vancouver Island, with Duncan as your destination.

Your drive parallels the Cowichan River and follows a forest road. The drive from Lake Cowichan to Duncan covers a distance of just 29 km so it’s not far at all.

Without stopping you’re looking at around 30 minutes but we do recommend stopping to check out the Cowichan Valley Trail or Cowichan River Provincial Park along the way. If you’re not the designated driver, then this area is also known for its wineries! 

You won’t need to make as many stops along this section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route, but the city of Duncan does have a lot to offer!

Cowichan Valley Trail

The Cowichan Valley Trail is another location that you’ll want to include on your Pacific Marine Circle Route Road Trip. It makes up part of the massive Trans-Canada Trail and is multi-use so it’s suitable for hikers, bikers, and horse-riders.

The Cowichan Valley Trail is also very family-friendly and some people do choose to take strollers with them. Although a great hiking option, it doesn’t get too busy either which is always a bonus.

The trail was once part of a railway so there are a number of historic trestle bridges along the trail. The 70.2 Mile Trestle is the closest to Lake Cowichan and the Holt Creek Trestle is closest to Duncan. However, the Kinsol Trestle near Shawnigan Lake is by far the most impressive and worth a stop.

Along the trail, there are picnic areas so you can always stop off and have something to eat too. 

Cowichan River

The Cowichan River is a popular spot to head for the summer months. The river stretches all the way from the Cowichan Estuary in Duncan to Cowichan Lake. Much of the area is protected by the Cowichan River Park .

The river offers a variety of water-based activities including swimming, paddling, and the most popular choice — tubing! There’s nothing better than floating down the river on a hot day.

If you don’t feel like getting wet, you can stroll alongside the river on the 20-km long Cowichan River Footpath. It runs from the Holt Creek Trestle to Skutz Falls. Make sure to check out the 66 Mile Trestle, which offers excellent views of the river below!

Want to stay the night? The Stoltz Pool Campground is nestled in the woods in the bend of the river. You can explore all around the campground on the Stoltz Pool Loop Trail.

This gorgeous river is also a popular spot for fishing. There’s a variety of fish found in these waters, including salmon, steelhead, and trout. 

In fact, if you head to Marie Canyon and Skutz Falls during the fall, you’ve got a great chance of watching the salmon spawn. This section of the river closes to fishing during this time of year (October to mid-December).

Often referred to as the ‘City of Totems’, Duncan is one of the best places to visit in the area when it comes to culture. Not only is it full of beautifully-carved totem poles, but there are also plenty of attractions to visit.

Some of the most popular spots include the BC Forest Discovery Centre and Cowichan Valley Museum. You can also take a short detour to the Hand of Man Museum if you wish, which is packed full of eccentric items! 

While in Duncan, you can hike up Mount Tzouhalem too although it’s quite the challenge.

For those heading to the city on a Saturday, check out the Duncan Farmer’s Market. Here, you’ll find everything from locally-grown produce to handcrafted gifts.

5. Duncan to Victoria

The last section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route road trip takes you from Duncan, back to Victoria. Between the two cities, there’s just 61 km which will take you just under an hour to drive if you don’t make any stops.

This last stretch of your adventure will take you along the Malahat Highway, and there are a few great places to visit before you reach Victoria. Although you won’t spend much time on the road, you don’t want to rush this section.

From the charming town at Cowichan Bay to the beautiful forest of Goldstream Provincial Park, there are a couple of places that you don’t want to miss!

Cowichan Bay

Cowichan Bay is a historic little town that’s located along the waterfront, just south of Duncan. With a laid back atmosphere and slow-paced living, it’s is the perfect spot for relaxing after an action-packed few days.

Spend an afternoon wandering along the main road of Cowichan Bay, stopping to check out art studios or eat at one of the local restaurants.

Or, for a bit more excitement, head out on one of the whale-watching tours that depart from this town too. These 4-hour wildlife cruises have the highest chance of seeing orcas on all of Vancouver Island!

Cowichan Bay is also a great place for spotting sea lions in the fall. All of these large marine mammals love to sunbathe on the docks after feeding on salmon. They are best seen from the public wharf, although you’ll hear them as soon as your in town.

Kinsol Trestle

As you’re driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route, don’t miss out on visiting the historic Kinsol Trestle along the Cowichan Valley Trail.

The Kinsol Trestle is one of the tallest free-standing timber trestle bridges in the entire world. It stands at a total 44 meters, towering high above the Koksilah River. The entire bridge is 187 meters long, making it one of the most spectacular of the eight trestles located along the Cowichan Valley Trail.

You’ll find the trestle just past Shawnigan Lake, which is also a great place to relax and enjoy the views.

It’s an easy 1.2 km walk to the bridge. The pathway is suitable for wheelchair users, strollers, cyclists, and horse riders. While here, make sure you enjoy the lush scenery all around you.

Malahat Skywalk

No Pacific Marine Circle Route road trip is complete without visiting the Malahat Skywalk . This observation deck offers jaw-dropping views of the Saanich Inlet, Finlayson Arm, and Mount Baker.

The 32-meter-high lookout is accessible via a 600m tree walk that’s an experience in itself. As you wander along the trail, make sure to take in all the sights and smells, specifically the arbutus trees (whose flowers smell like honey).

Better yet, once you’ve walked to the top of Malahat Skywalk, you can simply slide down the middle of the tower which is super fun! 

Goldstream Provincial Park

Last but certainly not least on this road trip itinerary is Goldstream Provincial Park . Boasting majestic waterfalls, towering trees, and plenty of wildlife, this incredible place has so much to offer. 

One of the most famous waterfalls within this park is Niagara Falls and yes, it shares a name with the waterfall in Ontario!. This waterfall is an impressive 47.5 meters high.

During your time here, you’ll also want to hike up Mount Finlayson. The trail is steep but the views from the top are epic!

If you visit Goldstream Provincial Park during the fall (starting October), you’ll also get to see the salmon run. Make sure you bring binoculars to spot the eagles, too.

Where to Stay on the Pacific Marine Circle Route

You’ll find a variety of accommodation options along the Pacific Marine Circle Route. From charming campgrounds to cozy cabins, there’s something for every budget. 

We’d recommend staying in Port Renfrew, more specifically, at the Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages . Not only will you be in a stunning seafront location, but some of the cabins feature a fire pit or private hot tub. 

Alternatively, Sooke is an excellent place to stay along the Pacific Marine Circle Route. If you choose to stay here, SookePoint Ocean Cottage Resort is a fantastic choice as you’ll also benefit from striking sea views!

Another option is to stay somewhere in the Cowichan Valley, like Lake Cowichan. If you’d prefer to stay in this area, then Cowichan River Lodge is a good choice. Nestled in the trees, this wooden lodge has a beautiful location and is quite close to the river.

Top Travel Tips & Resources for Vancouver Island, BC

• Travel Insurance – If you’re travelling internationally, travel insurance is a must for any trip. Being covered by insurance is especially important when you’re going to an adventure-filled place like British Columbia. If you injure yourself while adventuring, you want to have insurance! We recommend using SafetyWing for international travel insurance. They are affordable and have great policies for travellers, digital nomads, and remote workers. Also, SafetyWing provides COVID-19 coverage, which many other insurance companies don’t cover.
• Car Rental – We find the best deal on vehicle rental prices using RentalCars.com . They compare the prices for different car rental companies so you can find the best deals out there!
• Accommodations – We prefer booking all of our hotels, hostels, and other accommodations through Booking.com because they have a flexible cancellation policy. Also, there are lots of different options on their platform, from hotels to vacation homes. Alternatively, Expedia and Hotels.com are good for booking accommodations. For vacation home rentals, VRBO is an excellent choice (they have lower fees than Airbnb, many of the same properties, and are more ethical).
• Flights – You’ll find many good flight deals on Skyscanner or Google Flights. You can book flights through these websites and they’ll help you find the best prices and flight times. If you fly at less popular times (e.g. mid-week or red-eye flights), you can also save some money.
• Tours – Get the most out of your vacation by taking a guided tour! This is a great way to see the city, adventure to exciting new locations, and learn about the local culture. Viator or GetYourGuide are great options for booking tours.

Related posts:

• 15 Best Oceanfront Vacation Rentals in Sooke
• Juan de Fuca Trail Backpacking Guide
• 36 Best Things to Do in Victoria, BC
• 11 Best Things to Do in Port Hardy
• 9 Wheelchair Accessible Beaches around Victoria, BC

Hey, I'm Nicole! I've travelled all over the world but my favorite place is British Columbia. I've lived in Victoria, BC since 2019 and spend most of my free time travelling around BC. My goal is to explore as much of this beautiful province as possible. Along the way I'll be sharing travel tips with you!

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THE PACIFIC MARINE CIRCLE ROUTE

The Pacific Marine Circle Route or South Island Spirit Loop

The Pacific Marine Circle Route, also now known as the South Island Spirit Loop, follows the coastline from Victoria through Sooke and out to Port Renfrew. Crossing the the end of San Juan Bay, it turns east and winds its way over the mountains along former forestry roads to Lake Cowichan and into the Cowichan Valley and down into Duncan. From here it follows Highway 1 through Cobble Hill, Mill Bay over the Malahat Drive and back into Victoria.  Alternatively you can take a scenic short cut across the Saanich Inlet  on the Mill Bay Ferry.

If you have a least a day to spend in Victoria and want to experience a good chunk of Vancouver Island, the Pacific Marine Circle Route is an excellent option. This 280 km driving loop takes you across coastal mountains, along inside coastal shorelines, up beautiful coastal valleys, and down rugged west coast shorelines. You can stop at pulls outs with broad ocean views of the Juan de Fuca, Haro and Georgia Straits. You will pass gorgeous beaches, tranquil lakes, rolling farmlands and vineyards and pass through many small west coast communities.  You can walk beaches, hike, swim, kayak, canoe, SUP, surf and swim. You can visit provincial parks and you can even explore some of the most majestic old-growth forest on Vancouver Island. You can stop at coffee shops and restaurants, shop at little stores and galleries and even find delightful places to stay overnight if you have more time.

The San Juan River Estuary near Port Renfrew

The entire circle route is now paved, it wasn’t always. You should also be aware that along the western portions of the route you will be driving for long distances through wilderness and gas is only available in Sooke, Port Renfrew and Lake Cowichan, so make sure you check your fuel when leaving any of these places.

The Pacific Marine Circle Route near Port Renfrew

Forest fires pose a very real risk in the region during the summer months. At various points along the route there are signs indicating the level of fire danger and whether or not a campfire ban is in effect. Be aware of these and be appropriately cautious with smoking materials and any other source of open flame. Should you notice any indications of a fire, call 911 or alert residents who can do so.

Approximate Distances and Driving Times

Victoria harbour to Port Renfrew  – 112 km (67 miles) approx 2 hours without stops Port Renfrew to Victoria 155 km (93 miles)  approx 2 hours 40 minutes without stops.  If you take the Mill Bay Ferry instead of Driving the Malahat 144 km (86 miles) 3 hours 15 minutes depending on the ferry schedule.

Driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route – What to see and do

Mill bay ferry.

We decided to start our trip from our home base in Saanichton by taking the Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay Ferry . By the time you line up early and sail the 25 minutes across, you really don’t save any time, but for us locals, it provides a little change from driving over the Malahat.  The ferry offers great views of the Brentwood Bay area and Saanich inlet. If decide on this option, you should plan to get there early as this is a very small boat only holding about 16 cars.

The BC Ferries Mill Bay Ferry Schedule can be seen here by clicking this link:  Mill Bay Ferry Schedule Hot Tip:  Prepaid fares can be purchased at the following locations and will save you about 40% off the regular fare purchased at the ferry: Thrifty Foods: Broadmead: 100-777 Royal Oak Drive Sidney: 9810 7th Street Central Saanich: 7860 Wallace Drive Mill Bay: 50-2720 Mill Bay Road Mill Bay Shell Service Station
:   828 Deloume Road

The BC Ferries, MV Klitsa, approaching the Brentwood Bay dock

The Malahat Drive

If this is your first time on the island you may not want to miss the Malahat drive and the amazing views it offers from the two pullouts at the summit. The Malahat Drive is part of the Island Highway (#1) and begins at Goldstream Park and ends at Bamberton on the other side of the mountain.  The highway cuts right through Goldstream Provincial Park following the Goldstream River before it begins to climb.  Goldstream Park offers great hiking and walking opportunities, a campground, picnic facilities and if you’re here in the fall it is a great place to watch spawning salmon.  At the first pullout on the summit you will have incredible views down Saanich Inlet at Mt Finlayson, Victoria’s highest peak, and south across Juan de Fuca Strait and the Olympic Peninsula. The second pull out offers amazing views looking east over the Saanich Peninsula, Haro and Georgia Strait and all the way across to the coastal mountains beyond Vancouver & Hope including Mount Baker if the weather is clear.

Malahat Summit, looking south at the Saanich Inlet, Mount Finlayson and the Olympic Range

At the top of the Malahat drive is a new tourist attraction, the Malahat SkyWalk .   The Malahat SkyWalk is a wheelchair and stroller-friendly, fully accessible 600 meter walk on a raised walkway.  It winds through a beautiful forest leading to the Skywalk itself.  This amazing wooden structure has gentle spiral ramp that takes you up 32 meters to a lookout offering spectacular views of Finlayson Arm, Saanich Peninsula,  and on clear days, Mount Baker and the Coast Mountains in the distant background. And, you don’t have to walk back down, there is a Spiral Slide that will get you to the bottom in about 9 seconds!  There is also gift shop and a cafe at the visitors center.

Access to the Malahat Skywalk is 4 km past the Shawnigan Lake turnoff, just past the summit lookout. If you are coming from Mill Bay you will not be able to turn left off the highway and you must pass the entrance sign and follow signs to the designated U Turn route.

Walking the ramp in the Spiral Tower

Mill Bay to Duncan

From Mill Bay you will continue north on the Island Highway towards Duncan. You will pass through Cobble Hill where you could grab a coffee or do some shopping in some of the quirky stores at Whipple Tree Junction . Depending on the time you have and your inclination, you may want to drive the more scenic route through the back roads to Cowichan Bay . You can turn right on Kilmalu Rd on the far side of Mill Bay then the next left onto Telegraph Road and drive through beautiful pastoral farmlands and vineyards on a narrow gently winding road country road. Cowichan Bay is a small coastal community right on the water and is full of small gift shops, coffee shops and places to eat. From Cowichan Bay you will eventually rejoin the Island Highway and proceed into Duncan.

Whippletree Junction, Cobble Hill

Cowichan Bay

Duncan to Port Renfrew

From the highway, Duncan doesn’t look like much, but get yourself into the old town centre and you will find a thriving community of shops and restaurants including one of our favourites, Craig Street Brew Pub . Duncan calls itself the “City of Totems” and has over 40 beautifully carved totems scattered all around the City, with a rich history behind each totem.

Duncan – City of Totems

Craig St Brew Pub, Duncan

From Duncan you will turn west on the Cowichan Valley Highway which will take you  up the Cowichan Valley towards Cowichan Lake. This idyllic community is situated on Cowichan Lake with the beautiful heritage Cowichan River flowing through the center of town. Cowichan Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes on Vancouver Island. On the way there you can also stop at the Cowichan River Provincial park and hike some of the trails along this beautiful river and check out Skutz Falls and the beautiful Marie Canyon.

The Cowichan River

Kayaking on Lake Cowichan

Railway bridge, now a pedestrian bridge over the Cowichan River in Cowichan Lake

Passing through Cowichan Lake onto the South Shore Rd, you will come to Mesachie Lake which was a mill town from 1942 to 1968.  Here you will turn south onto  the Pacific Marine Rd which will take you over the mountains towards Port Renfrew.   A little further down the South Shore Rd is Honeymoon Bay , another lumber mill town, the homes on the original townsite were built and completed by Western Forest Industries Mill in 1947.

The Pacific Marine Circle Route near Mesachie Lake

From Mesachie Lake you will start up the former logging road which winds over the mountains to Port Renfrew. This road is now paved making it a much less tedious and dusty drive than it used to be. As you come out on the other side you will pass by Fairy Lake Recreation site . A small bonsai tree growing on an old submerged log on the lake is said to be the most photographed tree in all of BC!

Tree growing out of a submerged log at Fairy Lake

You will continue west on Pacific Marine Rd from Fairy Lake and will eventually turn south on Deering Rd towards Port Renfrew. If you went straight ahead at this intersection you could proceed instead, towards Avatar Grove about 6 kms along gravel road. The Avatar Grove is a site of protected ‘old growth’ forest and home to “Canada’s Gnarliest Tree”. This magnificent forest was identified by Ancient Forest Alliance activists in December, 2009. It is located within the traditional territory of the Pacheedaht First Nation, and was recently declared off limits to logging through a new Old-Growth Management Area plan in February of 2012. There are a couple of beautiful, relatively short hikes through sections of the Avatar Grove on board walk trails and stairs.

Avatar Grove

Avatar Grove – The Worlds Gnarliest Tree

Port Renfrew

Deering Rd takes you onto the San Juan River estuary at the mouth of Port San Juan with the gorgeous Pacheedaht Beach, running the length of the bay. At the north east end of the bay is the famous West Coast Trail   head. Pacheedaht Beach is part of the Pacheedaht First Nations Lands.  They allow camping on the beach and at their RV Park, but you will have to check in with them before accessing beach.

You will eventually cross the river into Port Renfrew . Port Renfrew is a very small community, but you will find accommodations, a couple of stores and restaurants, a pub and a gas station located here.

Pacheedaht Beach, Port Renfrew

The Renfrew Pub & Government Dock, Port Renfrew

Port San Juan – Port Renfrew

Just 3 1/2 km or so up along the coast from Port Renfrew is Botanical Beach, part of the Juan De Fuca Provincial Park which runs down the southwest coast to China Beach. A major feature of this park is the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, a rugged wilderness hiking trail that stretches along 47 kilometres of wilderness coastline.

Botonical Beach

Botanical Beach itself is one of the most amazing places on the West Coast, particularly at low tide. With rich unique tidal pools carved out of the sandstone and granite outcroppings and a shoreline full of life, Botanical Beach offers one of the best opportunities to view intertidal marine creatures and plants on Vancouver Island. However, the impact of human activity on the intertidal area is of growing concern. When visiting please look in the tide pools only. Don’t touch, remove, or disturb any tide pool life, shells, plants, flowers, kelp, etc. – they are all part of a vulnerable ecosystem that Botanical Beach was established to protect. Even touching the water in a tide pool with sunscreen on your hands can create an “oil slick” that could kill the vulnerable creatures in this sensitive ecosystem. The area is a protected zone, so please take nothing but photographs from Botanical Beach. If you are planning a trip to Botanical beach a low tide of 1.2 metres or less is best for viewing the tide pools. Use the Canadian Tide Tables “Port Renfrew” section. Remember to add one hour to the listed tidal times during March to November as Daylight Savings Time is in effect.

The Botanical Beach day-use area offers parking, pit toilets, visitor information and picnic areas.

Botanical Beach

Tidal Pools at Botanical Beach

Port Renfrew to Jordan River

Once you get back on the West Coast Rd heading back towards Victoria, you will climb up onto the San Juan Ridge and will be rewarded with spectacular views across the Juan de Fuca Strait and the Olympic Peninsula. You will also pass by some amazing west coast beaches that have reasonably easy access; Sombreo Beach and China Beach. Sombreo is a fairly easy 1.5 km walk with wide well developed trails, while China Beach is about 2 km and takes about and hour round trip on a steeper narrower paths. Both trails get you down to beautiful cobble beaches with incredible views.  Both Sombreo Beach and China Beach are part of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

A view of Cape Flattery from the West Coast Rd just outside of Port Renfrew

Sombreo Beach

China Beach

Not far past China beach the road returns to the waters edge at Jordan River a very popular surfing destination for board surfers, SUP paddles and kayakers. As you come down the hill into Jordan River you will see the Cold Shoulder Cafe on your left. It is the only service you will find here. They have a delightful menu, that serves excellent coffee, made with locally roasted coffee beans, and a wide variety of  fresh treats, soups and fresh sandwiches all made in house.

Jordan River is a local surfing meca. When the surfs up you will find board surfers, paddle boarders, kayakers and parasurfers riding the waves!

The Jordan River Mouth

Surfing at Jordan River, BC

The Cold Shoulder Cafe, Jordan River

Jordan River was established as a logging camp in the late 19th century, and has Vancouver Island’s second hydroelectric power plant which was built in 1911. In 2017, BC Hydro bought out all of the properties of Jordan River and demolished the buildings because of fear of failure of the dam in the case of a large earth quake. Jordan River is now part of the CRD’s (Capital Region District) Jordan River Regional Park . There is parking, beach access and a campground here.

Jordan River Regional Park Campground

Just up the road from Jordan River is the parking area for Sandcut Beach also part of the Jordan River Regional Park and it is a short hike down to the water and yet another beautiful cobble beach. If you walk the beach to the left you will find Sandcut Waterfall pouring over a sandstone outcropping right onto the beach.

Sandcut Beach

Jordan River to Sooke

The next point of interest along the way is Point no Point , a resort located right on the coast with stunning ocean views. They have 25 cabins with kitchens and fireplaces. Their restaurant is a delight and if you do stay here they have a wonderful little hiking trail leading out to a rocky point with a couple of beautiful wood bridges crossing the ocean surge channels. Definitely worth a stop!!

Updates: As with many business, Point no Point is having problems with staff shortages.  Please check Point no Point’s website for accurate, up to date information for their current offerings and restaurant hours prior to making the drive out.

The private trails at Point no Point are now only available to guests registered overnight at the resort.

Point no Point Restaurant – Beautiful sunset views

Point no Point Resort walking trails

Just a few miles further along is French Beach Provincial Park with very easy beach access with a wide swath of green lawn fronting this sand and cobble beach. Facilities include a campground, picnic/day-use area, a sani-station, pit toilets and fresh water.

French Beach Provincial Park

Back on the road you will pass through the small community of Shirley . There is a restaurant, called Shirley Delicious, and if you drive down Shirley Road towards the coast you will come to the parking area for the historic Sheringham Point Lighthouse which began operation on Sept 30, 1912. It was automated in the 80’s and destaffed in 1989. However, due to the hard work and dedication of the Sheringham Point Lighthouse Preservation Society it has been restored to its former glory. Well worth checking out!

Sheringham Point Lighthouse

Just before Sooke you will pass Gordon’s Beach , another west coast cobble beach. There is public access to the beach, but there are also a lot of houses and cabins along the beach so it is not quite the pristine west coast experience you have seen at other beaches along the way. Right near here at 8750 W Coast Rd, you will also find the Tugwell Creek Honey Farm & Meadery with a tasting room, gift shop, and museum at their beautiful ocean view farm.

Once you get back to Sooke, you will be back in civilization. You will find all the amenities you could want here; gas, restaurants, fast food places, coffee shops, accommodation, shopping etc. Sooke is situated on Sooke Harbour, a large very sheltered bay on the coast.

Points of interest include Whiffin Spit, at the end of Whiffin Spit road. The spit is a natural protrusion of sand and rock jutting out from Quimper Park, which forms a natural breakwater protecting the inner harbor. It is an easy, flat 1.25-kilometer walk leading out to the end where there is a small lighthouse.

Whiffin Spit, Sooke

Light Marker at the tip of Whiffin Spit

On the outskirts of Sooke just before you cross the Sooke River, you will pass the Sooke Region Museum and Visitor Centre , a community museum that explores the human and natural heritage of the region from Sooke to Port Renfrew. The museum is easily identified by the huge third-order Fresnel lens on display outside the museum. The lighthouse housing the lens was removed from Triangle Island on the northern tip of Vancouver Island, originally built in 1910, but the original lens disappeared while in storage after it was dismantled, so the Fresenel lens on display here is from the Estevan Point lighthouse. The museum also operates the local visitor information centre for the region, holds various special event during the year, has a gift shop with local arts & crafts, plus they can do special meals for pre-booked tour groups.

Sooke Regional Museum & Visitor Centre – photo courtesy Sooke Regional Museum

Just across the Sooke River Bridge on your left is the Sooke River Road which leads to Sooke Potholes Provincial Park. Here you will find access to the series of deep, polished rock pools and potholes carved naturally into the bedrock of the Sooke River. There are hiking trails along the river and access to the Galloping Goose trail which runs past the park here. There are picnic facilities and pit toilets located at the parking lot.

Just a little further up the road from the Provincial park parking area is the Sooke Potholes Regional Park where there is more parking, picnic facilities and a campground. You can swim, hike and bike the Galloping Goose Trail from here.

Sooke Potholes

Tod Trestle one of the 2 trestles along the Galloping Goose trail that can be accessed from Sooke Potholes Park.

Sooke to Victoria

Leaving Sooke you will wind your way down West Coast Rd into Victoria completing the Pacific Marine Circle Route. If you want to follow more back roads and see a little more of the West Coast, turn right onto Gillespie Road about 6.5 kms from Sooke River Rd. This route will take you through some beautiful rainforest, past some rugged coastlines and into the tranquil farm lands of Metchosin.  Follow Gillespie to East Sooke Rd where you will turn left.

As you follow East Sooke Rd you will pass signage for East Sooke Regional Park at the end of Belcher Rd.  This  parks offers some amazing  hikes along the coast and incredible views of Juan de Fuca Strait and the Olympics.  There are also some petroglyphs here.

Hiking East Sooke Park

East Sooke Rd will eventually become Rocky Point Rd which will lead you to Happy Valley Rd where you will turn right.  In a short distance you will turn left onto Metchosin Rd right by the My-Chosin Cafe, a very popular restaurant with wonderful comfort food and a comfy country atmosphere. Follow Metchosin Road for approximately 6.7 kms to Lagoon Rd. On the way you will pass Witty’s Lagoon Regional Park , another gem with trails leading past Sitting Lady Falls down to a beautiful sandy beach.

View from the beach at Witty’s Lagoon Regional Park – Race Rocks Lighthouse in the Distance

Sitting Lady Falls in Witty’s Lagoon Regional Park

Lagoon Road will take you down to the Esquimalt Lagoon and the Coburg Peninsula, a narrow strip of land separating the Esquimalt Lagoon from the Juan De Fuca Strait. This is a popular destination for locals because of the sandy beach running its entire length and the bird life found in the lagoon. You will also see Hatley Castle on the hillside to your left and at the end of the spit you will see the historic Fisgard Lighthouse, built in 1860 and a part of the Fort Rodd Hill National Historic site. Once you cross the bridge at the end of the peninsula you will continue along until you reconnect with Sooke Road, where you will turn right and head back into Victoria either by Highway #1 or by following the Old Island Highway.

Esquimalt Lagoon

Hatley Castle

Fisgard Lighthouse

As you can see, there is a lot to see and do along the Pacific Marine Circle Route. If you only have a day you will have to pick and choose where to stop and how much time to spend there. Alternatively you may want to take a couple of days or more and book some accommodation or camp somewhere along the way.

Pacific Marine Circle Route Map

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beautiful photography.

Glad you enjoyed the photos! Thank you so much!!

Wonderful description of this route. I would like to do it in my older EV some day. Thanks!

Hi Rick, We’re so glad you enjoyed the post on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Hopefully you will get out in that EV and make it around! Cheers!!

Hey Bruce, very detailed and informative. Thanks a lot for writing it up 🙂 It helped me a lot to plan my trip to Victoria, especially about the places I can visit outside of Victoria city.

Thanks so much Yashraj!! I’m so glad you enjoyed the post and found it helpful!! Cheers!

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VancityWild | Canadian Family Adventure & Lifestyle

Pacific Marine Circle Route: A Vancouver Island Road Trip

• December 4, 2022
• VancityWild
• Road Trips , South Island , Victoria
• No Comments

We’ve visited Vancouver Island countless times, but somehow it still feels like we haven’t uncovered all that this little slice of BC paradise has to offer. It’s been our mission in recent trips to step outside of the ordinary and experience new regions, try new restaurants, and explore beaches and parks we had yet to visit. Enter the Pacific Marine Circle Route ! This wild, South Vancouver Island loop is a one to five day road trip with 300 kilometres of beautiful Pacific coastline, immaculate lakes, sweeping beaches, and lush forests . There’s no better way to explore the area, which is full of incredible local gems that shouldn’t be missed. We jumped at the chance to bring Ollie on his first official multi-day road trip, and we loved every minute of it!

We want to take you with us on the perfect five day journey along the Pacific Marine Circle Route – follow along to get a taste of this beautiful region. The best part? You can get through this loop quickly, or you can really take your time and stop whenever you feel inspired. There is something for everyone, from quaint restaurants and cafes, to farms, B&B’s, boutiques and wineries. Immerse yourself in the quiet peacefulness of the island lifestyle – there’s no place quite like it.

Table of Contents Pacific Marine Circle Route - A Vancouver Island Road Trip

Day 1: Victoria to Cowichan Bay

First stop: goldstream park.

After a few days spent enjoying the scenic sights, sounds and tastes of Victoria, we headed towards the Cowichan Valley. Our first stop along the way was at Goldstream Provincial Park – an old favourite of ours, but a place that’s so beautiful in every season that it keeps us coming back time and time again. Goldstream has several trails throughout the park, including our favourite hike that leads to an old, abandoned railway trestle. There are trails that bring you through lush forest glades, (with some towering trees dating back over 600 years!), along the river, (known for its annual fall salmon run), and to stunning waterfalls etched out of moss and fern covered cliffs. There are also campsites, if you feel like an extra overnight adventure! We strapped Ollie in his carrier and hiked to the Goldstream Trestle, and made sure to stop at the beautiful Niagara Falls before continuing on our way.

Second stop: Merridale Cidery & Distillery

From Goldstream Park we travelled North along the Trans-Canada Highway into the Cowichan region for a visit to Merridale Cidery & Distillery . As we pulled in, we were struck by how idyllic Merridale felt with its sun-dappled meadows of blossoming apple trees and fields of yellow dandelions. Here we spent a few blissful hours enjoying lunch in their farm house while overlooking the orchard, sipping apple ciders and meandering through the fields with Ollie in our arms. If you’ve never been here – now’s the time to go. We recommend a glass of their apple juice, (or take a bottle to go!), and their pecan mushroom burger.

Third stop: Kinsol Trestle

We decided it was a trestle kind of day, so next we headed west along Renfrew Road toward the historic Kinsol Trestle in Koksilah River Provincial Park. This spectacular, previously abandoned wooden trestle is one of the highest railway trestles in the world, and now serves as a pedestrian crossing over the Koksilah River. It’s a great opportunity to take a beautiful stroll along a piece of the Trans Canada Trail – this amazing structure is worth the visit!

Fourth Stop: Bridgeman's Bistro

We worked up quite the appetite and headed back to Mill Bay to enjoy dinner at Bridgeman’s Bistro , (a garden salad and local salmon for Brie and smoked chicken carbonara for Reuben, with a side of steamed veggies for Ollie!), while overlooking the marina at sunset. We had the most incredible view of the Saanich Inlet and Mt. Baker from their outdoor seating area – Mill Bay was definitely showing off that night! If you’re looking for a place to enjoy a west coast view with your dinner – this is definitely it.

Home for the night: The Farm Table Inn

Next up, we drove towards the Cowichan Valley to our accommodations for the night – the sweet little B&B called the Farm Table Inn . We had just enough daylight left for a walk on the farm to visit the chickens, have a chat with the farm’s lovely owners, and to meet Oliver the cat.

The Farm Table Inn is a charming B&B where the term “farm to table” takes on a true meaning. Owners Evelyn and George have poured their heart and souls into this endeavour, and George fondly shared his dreams of expanding their farm. Vegetables, eggs, and freshly smoked meats are just a few of the things that George serves in their restaurant that come right from their farm, (expect a gourmet breakfast if you stay there!), and everything that they can’t get directly from their farm, they source from local vendors. We felt so lucky to have such a delightful end to our first day on the road.

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Day 2: Cowichan Bay to Port Renfrew

100.8km – 1 hr 51 min

After an amazing sleep in the comfiest bed at the Farm to Table Inn, we were treated to an incredible homemade breakfast. We dined on fresh eggs while chickens wandered outside the window (much to Ollie’s delight!). We checked out and said goodbye to our new friends, but not without first taking a tasty picnic lunch with us to enjoy on the road.

First stop: Westholme Tea Farm

Little known fact: there are only TWO tea farms in all of North America. One is in Hawaii, and the other is the Westholme Tea Farm in Duncan, BC. Hard to believe! Nicknamed “The Warm Land” by the Coast Salish People, the fertile landscape in this area creates a unique micro-climate that fosters the growth of camellia sinensis-tea plants. We felt so lucky to be able to tour such a unique place, to learn about how tea is harvested from their plants, to taste a myriad of different types of teas sourced from all over the world, and to even eat freshly picked tea buds pulled right off their plants. The remarkable space at Westholme not only sells their amazing selection of teas and delicious tea-infused baked goods in a cafe like setting overlooking the garden, but it also serves as a studio for co-owner Margit’s pottery.

Second stop: Lizard Lake and Fairy Lake

We continued our adventure west across the island on Highway 18 towards Port Renfrew, first stopping at beautiful Lizard Lake to enjoy our picnic lunch on the dock in the sunshine. Next up on the drive – don’t forget to stop at Fairy Lake to marvel at the famous and captivating “bonsai” tree! Perched on a partially submerged log in the middle of the lake, you’ll find a perfectly tiny Douglas Fir. Thought to be 30-40 years old, this mini tree has never been able to find the resources to grow more than a few feet tall – such a picturesque sight demonstrating nature’s will for growth and survival.

Third stop: Avatar Grove

Our first stop in the Port Renfrew area was to Avatar Grove, an old growth rainforest full of massive firs and cedars. To be honest we weren’t sure what to expect – we’ve seen all sorts of west coast forests before and they’re ALL beautiful…how could this be a standout? After driving the bumpy, gravel logging road to get there, we climbed the stairs into the forest and were literally transported into a fairy land. This forest is like no other. Dwarfed by giant, old growth trees, we wandered over babbling brooks with sing-song birds chirping a soundtrack to our fairytale. Sunlight streamed through the canopy, and Ollie kept squealing for no reason other than total happiness. And yes, Avatar Grove is also home to Canada’s “gnarliest” tree.

Home for the night: The Wild Renfrew

The Wild Renfrew is a resort located in Port Renfrew with a collection of waterfront cottages, each boasting incredible ocean views and access to a private beach. The cozy cottage we stayed in was so homey and peaceful – it even had its own outdoor fireplace! After exploring the beach with Ollie and eating a delicious meal at the nearby Renfrew Pub, (the local salmon burger is sooo good – highly recommend!), we put Ollie to bed and lit a fire to stay warm while we watched the stars. (Thank goodness for baby monitors!)

Day 3: Port Renfrew to Sooke

First stop: botanical beach.

There is no better way to start the day than with a hike, and the Botanical Beach Loop did just the trick. Botanical Beach is stunning in its own right, but is made especially unique by the extensive tide pools that can be explored during lower tides. These circular pools are like their own mini aquariums, teeming with sea life. If you pick your times right and explore Botanical Beach at low tide, this is one of the best places on the west coast to view marine life up close. Each pool has its own delicate ecosystem full of plants and animals that have adapted to survive the harshest conditions. Just remember to look, and not touch!

Second stop: Sombrio Beach

Next up – a visit to one of our absolute favourite areas along the Juan de Fuca Trail – Sombrio Beach . This beach has everything a west coast beach should have. A walk through the forest, long stretches of sand, and relentless rolling waves often frequented by surfers. Perhaps our favourite thing about Sombrio is the hidden waterfall that can only be accessed from the beach. Nestled in a small cavern with rock walls covered in vibrant green moss, this has got to be one of the coolest waterfalls we’ve ever seen. (And we’ve seen a lot!)

Third stop: Shirley Delicious

We never visit Juan de Fuca Provincial Park without going to one of the best cafes on the island: Shirley Delicious . In all our travels, this still remains one of our most loved spots – it CANNOT be missed! Located in the tiny town of Shirley, (seriously tiny, blink and you’ll miss it), this quaint cafe is always bustling with people. From their mouth-watering freshly baked goods, sandwiches, and hot drinks to the friendly chats with their staff – this spot is an experience in itself.

Fourth stop: Sheringham Distillery

Next stop, a tour and tasting with the rad local distillery, Sheringham Distillery . Established in 2015 by former chef Jason MacIsaac and partner Alayne, Sheringham Distillery uses unique local ingredients to make the most delicious small batch craft spirits. (Including their internationally award winning Seaside Gin – somehow they’ve managed to capture the magic of Vancouver Island’s coast in a bottle). We loved learning about how they produce, bottle and label their products all on site, (talk about legit use of the word “craft”), and hearing about their passion for developing new spirits. Make sure to stop by if you’re in the area!

Home for the night: Prestige Oceanfront Resort

We decided to spend the night at the Prestige Oceanfront Resort in Sooke. Set just above the Strait of Juan de Fuca and with views of the Pacific Ocean and Olympic Mountains, this resort has an incredible location. There’s a full service spa, an on-site seafood restaurant called the West Coast Grill, (with great calamari!) an outdoor terrace for lounging or sitting by the fire while enjoying a drink, and the resort itself is only a short drive away from some of the best beaches on the island. Come here if you want to be pampered, or if you’re looking for a great home base for your adventures.

Day 4: Sooke to Sidney

First stop: little vienna bakery, café and marketplace and the stick in the mud coffee house.

Mornings are usually pretty slow for us, unless we get coffee and adventure fuel first. So to the Stick in the Mud Coffee House we went! This little coffee outpost is a super cute spot with delicious coffee, homemade baked goods, and lovely service. We took our americanos to go and went around the corner to Little Vienna Bakery for breakfast sandwiches (great veggie and gluten free options here!) and the yummiest yogurt parfaits with homemade granola.

Second stop: East Sooke Park

Oh, heavenly place. The day we explored Sooke started off dreary – overcast, windy, and a little on the cooler side. When we arrived at East Sooke Park , we bundled up in toques and jackets and set off on the trail to Creyke Point. By the time we got to the beach, light was dancing on the waves – it was calm and sheltered from the wind, and sunshine broke through the gloom. The view blew us away! The trail was lush with greenery and had ocean views on either side, and little paths jutted out from the trail and led down to the beaches below. There are over 50km of trails in East Sooke Park, through forest and along the coast, so there is something here for everyone. We’re excited to come back in the summertime to explore some more, and so Ollie can play in the sand.

Third stop: Country Bee Honey Farm

For something a little bit different, our next visit was to the Urban Bee Honey Farm , a lovely establishment owned and run by former Vancouverites Jason and Lindsay. We enjoyed a tour from Jason where we heard all about their hives, how they raise their bees and harvest their honey, and where the business is hoping to go in the near future. Their space currently houses a small coffee shop with delicious baked goods, local crafts, and of course, LOTS of local honey for purchase. Best of all? All their local honeys are set up for tasting, and make no mistake, we tried them ALL and picked our favourites to take home. (Their local Fireweed honey is out of this world!) Jason shared with us their plans for setting up gardens, animal pens and picnic areas on the property by this summer – it’s such a cool and unique place to visit, we can’t wait to go back!

Fourth stop: Victoria Distillers

Have you ever seen purple gin before? We hadn’t either, but we’d heard about Victoria Distillers’ famous and award winning Empress 1908 Gin that boasts a pretty violet hue. Visiting Victoria Distillers was a neat surprise, (did you know how beautiful and impressive the equipment is for making spirits?) and we got to see the process of making their gin. Turns out, it’s micro-distilled in small batch copper-pot stills, and is hand crafted using all-natural botanicals. It’s the ingredient known as butterfly tea blossom that turns it such a vibrant purple! Besides making their spirits on-site at their stunning Sidney waterfront location, Victoria Distillers also offers tastings and tours, and has a beautiful bar and cocktail lounge that serves their delicious and inventive drinks.


Home for the night: Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa

Lovely Sidney by the Sea. We’ve often passed through Sidney on our way to the ferry and loved our visits, but we’ve never spent so much quality time here. The Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa was the PERECT place to spend the night. Our spectacular room had massive windows and a balcony overlooking the ocean, and we were conveniently located right in the heart of town. We were ready to move right in, or at least extend our stay!

Day 5: Sidney

First stop: a wander through the town of sidney by the sea.

Mornings in Sidney are blissful. Quiet, peaceful, and scenic – there isn’t really anything more you could ask for. We walked over to Quince Cafe and Ice Cream for some delicious coffee, and strolled along the pier in the sunshine. No visit to Sidney is complete without a stop at Tanner’s Books and Buddies Toys, or a browse through the shops on Beacon Ave.

Second stop: 3rd Street Cafe

Brunch! 3rd Street Cafe is a bustling Sidney staple, and is a fave local spot for eggs bennies. Located right on Beacon ave it can’t be missed – make sure this spot is on your Sidney to-do list! This is a small restaurant so if you’re planning to go on a weekend, get there early or expect a lineup.

Third stop: Mosi Bakery Cafe and Gelateria

After our first ferry was delayed due to weather, we jumped for joy…cause who wants to go home, anyway?! This meant we could finally try a spot we’ve been dying to visit – Mosi Bakery Cafe and Gelateria . Ohhh this place. Located in a quaint little building in a quiet area of Saanich, this Italian-style bakery has heavenly baked goods that will make your mouth water instantly. Mosi Bakery serves delicious breakfast, Sunday brunch, lunch, and pizza nights on Fridays and Saturdays. Their handmade gelato is incredibly creamy, combining both authentic Italian and locally sourced ingredients – some of the best we’ve had outside of Italy. (Dying for some more of their mint chip, Saanich citrus and pistacho gelato). Delicioso!

Journey home: BC FERRIES

Tired, happy and with hearts full of gratitude, we made the journey back home to Vancouver with BC Ferries. Five jam-packed days filled with incredible food, lovely hospitality, insanely beautiful sights, and memories to last a lifetime. The Pacific Marine Circle Route offers such a unique island experience, we can’t recommend it enough!

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The ultimate guide to Vancouver Island’s Pacific Marine Circle Route

Vancouver Island is one of my favourite road trip destinations in British Columbia. It is home to wild beaches, old-growth rainforests, snow-capped mountains and pristine lakes. The great thing about the island is that you don’t have to drive far to get off the beaten path and experience these rugged landscapes. The Pacific Marine Circle Route is one of the best road trips on Vancouver Island . This 289 km loop follows the southern coastline of the island, from Victoria to Port Renfrew, before veering north up to Cowichan Valley and back down to Victoria. 

This scenic drive will take you to some of the best places on Vancouver Island and is a great way to see a lot in a short space of time. To help you explore the Pacific Marine Circle Route for yourself, I’ve put together a comprehensive 3-day road trip itinerary. You will also find optional add-ons in case you want to extend your trip, driving tips, suggestions on where to stay, and more!

Disclaimer : This blog post features some affiliate links, which means I get a small commission if you make a purchase. There’s no extra cost to you but it just helps me to keep writing these free guides and itineraries for my readers. Thank you for your support!

PACIFIC MARINE CIRCLE ROUTE: VICTORIA TO PORT RENFREW AND COWICHAN VALLEY

There are so many wonderful things to see and do on Southern Vancouver Island. The drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew and up through Cowichan Valley is a great way to experience this beautiful region. You could easily spend a week exploring all the stops along the way but the nice thing about this route is that you can cover a lot in 3 days.

My boyfriend and I both work full time during the week so we’re always looking for trips we can squeeze into a weekend. This 3-day Victoria to Port Renfrew and Cowichan Valley itinerary is ideal if you’re travelling over a long weekend or have a Friday or Monday off work. If you do have more time, I’ve included some suggestions on how to extend this road trip later in the blog post. 

Before we jump in, here are some important things to know about the Pacific Marine Circle Route to help you plan your trip.

Pacific Marine Circle Route Overview

The Pacific Marine Circle Route is a 289 km (179-mile) loop around Southern Vancouver Island, starting and ending in British Columbia’s vibrant capital, Victoria. You could drive the whole route in one day; however, there are lots of amazing places to see along the way so most people do it over 3 days. This way you can take your time and stop at the wild beaches, explore some of the rugged coastal trails, and sample local wines at Cowichan’s award-winning vineyards,

You can drive the Pacific Marine Circle Route in either direction. We did a clockwise loop so this itinerary will go from Victoria to Port Renfrew to Cowichan Valley and back to Victoria.

• Day 1: Victoria to Port Renfrew (111 km/ 69 miles)
• Day 2: Port Renfrew to Cowichan Bay (100 km/ 62 miles)
• Day 3: Cowichan Bay to Victoria (55 km/ 34 miles)

Below you’ll find an itinerary map for the Pacific Marine Circle Route which features pins for each day’s scenic stops, hiking trails and places to eat. You can save the map by clicking on the star next to the title and use it to help gauge daily driving distances.

How to get to Victoria, BC

There are a few different ferry routes to the island depending on where you’re travelling from:

• Vancouver (Horseshoe Bay) to Nanaimo (Departure Bay):  From Vancouver, take the ferry from Tsawwassen ferry terminal to Victoria’s Swartz Bay terminal. Once you get off the ferry, it’s a short drive to Victoria via Highway 17 (Patricia Bay Highway). The whole trip usually takes around 3 hours.  
• Port Angeles (Washington) to Victoria (Inner Harbour):  If you’re coming from Washington or Oregon, you can hop over to Vancouver Island from Port Angeles via the  Black Ball Ferry . You’ll arrive into Victoria’s Inner Harbour.
• Seattle (Pier 69 Downtown) to Victoria (Inner Harbour): This is a lovely and relaxing way to get to Victoria. The ferry departs from downtown Seattle and arrives into the Belleville Terminal in Victoria’s Inner Harbour in less than 3 hours.

If you’re planning to take the ferry to Nanaimo or Victoria, I recommend booking your tickets in advance, especially if you’re travelling on a long weekend. You don’t have to pay the full amount right away. You can opt to pay the small reservation fee which secures your spot and pay the rest on the day. Make sure you arrive at least 30 minutes prior to departure otherwise your reservation will be released.

For those coming from further away, I’d recommend  flying into Victoria  and renting a car. I always use  Skyscanner  to find reasonable rates on flights.

You can hire a car from Victoria airport once you arrive.   I personally use  Auto Europe  for car rentals as they have great rates. You can compare all the major companies in a grid format that shows the prices for different car sizes by provider. If you need any help, their 24/7 customer service is very good.

Pacific Marine Circle Route driving conditions and tips

The entire Pacific Marine Circle Route is paved and the roads are genuinely very good. There are some bumpy sections on the way from Victoria to Port Renfrew and then out to Cowichan Valley so take it slowly. As you drive through from Sooke to Port Renfrew, there are some sharp bends and the road is quite windy. You can do this road trip in a 2 wheel drive (2WD) but if you want to venture out to Avatar Grove near Port Renfrew, you may need a 4WD with high clearance.

Some parts of the route are quite remote and you will lose cell coverage. I found that I didn’t have any service between Sooke and Lake Cowichan. The route is well signed but I recommend downloading offline maps or taking a physical one with you just in case. 

Make sure you stock up on groceries before you set off, either in Victoria or Sooke, because there aren’t many stores from Sooke until Cowichan Valley. There is a small general store in Port Renfrew but the selection is limited. The same applies for gas. Fill up in Sooke as the gas station in Port Renfrew isn’t always open and there aren’t any others until Lake Cowichan.

When is the best time to drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew and Cowichan on the Pacific Marine Circle Route?

The southern island has a sub-Mediterranean climate which means that it has some of the mildest weather in Canada. As a result, it’s a great place to visit all year round and each season offers a different experience. 

In spring, the weather is beginning to warm up and the region is fairly dry. Summer is the best time to visit for outdoor activities. The weather is lovely and warm with little rain so it’s an ideal time for hiking and cycling. It’s also a great time to see migratory whales as they make their way through the waters of the Salish Sea and the North Pacific. However the downside is that it can be very busy and accommodation can be more expensive so you’ll need to book in advance to get the best prices.

Fall is a gorgeous time to do the Pacific Marine Circle Route as the trees change colour making the drive really magical. It can get quite chilly in the evening and you should expect more rain so pack accordingly. I would avoid doing this road trip in winter as the weather can be a bit unpredictable. As I mentioned earlier, some of the route takes you through remote areas without service so if the weather took a turn for the worst, you could get stranded.

PACIFIC MARINE CIRCLE ROUTE: 3-DAY ITINERARY

This is quite a jam-packed itinerary so you’ll need to arrive the night before or very early on day one in order to fit everything in. When we did this trip we arrived Thursday after work, stayed overnight in Victoria, and got up early on Friday to start the drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew.

Pacific Marine Circle Route Day 1: Victoria to Port Renfrew

Wake up early, grab some breakfast, and get ready for a busy day of exploring beaches, waterfalls and coastal trails! Once you’ve fuelled up for the day, it’s time to start the scenic drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew. I suggest stocking up on food and supplies before you set off on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. The drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew will take you through some remote areas and you’ll go a while without passing any stores or services. If you have time, pack a picnic in a cooler for the day so you enjoy lunch on one of the beaches.   

F irst Stop: Sooke

The small town of Sooke is the first stop on your way from Victoria to Port Renfrew. Take Highway 1 north and then travel west for 45 minutes along Highway 14 to Sooke.

Known as the place where “the rainforest meets the sea”, Sooke offers plenty of opportunities to relax and reconnect with nature. It has an abundance of wildlife and endless outdoor activities – I honestly think it’s one of Vancouver Island’s best-kept secrets! Stretch your legs at East Sooke Regional Park. Spanning over 3,500 acres, the park has over 50 km of hiking trails ranging from easy hikes like Creyke Point to the challenging East Sooke Coast Trail.

Jump back in the car and drive to one of Vancouver Island’s geological wonders, Sooke Potholes. Located in Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, these aqua-green natural pools are carved into Sooke River’s bedrock. You can walk along the Riverside Trail which has beautiful views of the river and canyon. The out-and-back trail is 5.5 miles (8.9 km) long but you can walk as far as you want. Along the way, you’ll find marked and unmarked beaches which lead to amazing swimming holes.

There are three parking lots but I found that the beaches and potholes are better further up the road so aim for parking lot 3 if you can. In the summer, Sooke Potholes is a popular spot for locals and visitors alike so parking fills up quickly.

Drive into the town of Sooke and grab a coffee and take a short walk along Whiffin Spit. This small natural peninsula separates Sooke Basin and the wild waters of the Juan de Fuca Strait. Keep your eyes peeled for shorebirds, harbour seals, geese and herons. I have a full guide to Sooke if you want more information on the best things to do.

Second Stop: Shirley Delicious

Continue west along Highway 14 for 20 minutes until you pass Shirley Community Hall. Turn left onto Sheringham Point Road and you’ll find Shirley Delicious . This little A-frame cabin is one of the best places to eat on the way from Victoria to Port Renfrew on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. This café is nestled in the woods and serves fresh baked goods, coffee, brunch and lunch dishes. It’s a great place to stop and take a little break.

Once you’ve had something to eat and drink, jump back in the car and get ready for the prettiest part of today’s road trip. The drive between Sooke and Port Renfrew will take you through some of the most rugged West Coast landscapes on Vancouver Island.

Third Stop: Sandcut Beach

Sandcut Beach is one of the most unique stops along this stretch of the Pacific Marine Circle Route from Victoria to Port Renfrew. It is home to a gorgeous waterfall which flows over a sandstone cliff right onto the beach. You can walk behind the falls in summer and fall when the water flow isn’t as

The beach is a short 10-minute drive from Shirley Delicious. Keep an eye out for a small parking lot on your left (it is signed but it’s easy to miss). From the parking lot, follow the trail through the forest down to the beach. It’s a short walk but make sure you have good hiking boots because the trail can get very muddy. Once you reach the beach, go left and walk along the shore for about 5 minutes until you see the waterfall.

F ourth Stop: Mystic Beach

Continue along Highway 14 for 15 minutes until you reach the next stop on the Pacific Marine Circle Route, Mystic Beach. Home to another photogenic waterfall, Mystic Beach is one of the prettiest beaches in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

The beach is located at the southern end of the Juan de Fuca Trail, a 47 km multi-day hike along the west coast of Vancouver Island. It’s considered a challenging trail and usually takes about 3 to 5 day to complete. Fortunately, you can explore small parts of the trail such as Mystic Beach as day hikes.

To get to the beach, park at the China Beach day use parking lot which is where the Juan de Fuca Trail starts. You’ll walk the first 2 km of the trail which takes you through the forest, across a picturesque suspension bridge, and down some wooden steps. Once you get to the beach, turn left and walk along the water until you get to the waterfall. At low tide, you can walk to the other side of the falls. Spend some time taking in the views, playing on another rope swing, and exploring the cave.

Fifth Stop: Sombrio Beach

Once you’ve finished exploring Mystic Beach, jump back in the car and continue along the highway to Sombrio Beach. This part of the Pacific Marine Circle Route is where the road gets narrower and windy so take your time as you go around some of the sharp bends.

After about 21 km on the highway, you’ll see a gravel road on your left that will take you down to Sombrio Beach parking lot. There isn’t always a sign so it can be easy to miss. The road is gravel and can be rough and bumpy so go slowly. There are some big potholes so if you don’t have a 4WD you can always leave the car at the top and walk down instead. Once you reach the parking lot it’s an easy and short walk to the beach.

Sombrio Beach is a popular surfing location and a great place to enjoy your packed lunch if you brought one with you. This is definitely one of my favourite spots on the drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew so make sure you leave enough time to explore the beach.

You’ve probably seen it on Instagram, but this is where you’ll find the hidden waterfall. Tucked away in a mossy canyon, this waterfall is not a secret anymore but it’s still a beautiful sight to see on your way from Victoria to Port Renfrew. To find the waterfall, turn left and walk down the beach towards an outhouse in the trees. About one minute past the outhouse, you’ll spot a creek flowing onto the beach. Follow the creek upstream (make sure you have waterproof shoes on) and eventually you’ll come face to face with the hidden waterfall.   

This canyon is a sensitive place and is sacred to the Pacheedaht First Nation. There is already some graffiti in the canyon which is sad to see. Please be respectful and minimize your impact by following the 7 leave no trace principles so future generations can enjoy this natural place. 

Sixth Stop: Port Renfrew

It’s now time for the last leg of your road trip from Victoria to Port Renfrew. Continue on the highway for 19 km (23 minutes) until you reach the town of Port Renfrew. Located at the end of Highway 14, this small town is one of the starting points for the West Coast Trail and the Juan de Fuca Trail. Once a little logging town, Port Renfrew has become an eco-tourism hub and is home to some of the tallest trees in Canada.   

Like Sooke, Port Renfrew has an idyllic and remote, small-town charm. The town is spread out around a wide inlet surrounded by mountains so there isn’t really a downtown area. There is a small general store in town if you need to stock up on food and supplies but it doesn’t have a big selection. If you need gas, there is a seasonal gas station but I would fill up in Sooke to be on the safe side.

End the day with a walk down to the dock to catch a beautiful West Coast sunset and then grab some dinner. The Renfrew Pub serves hearty pub food and locally brewed beer on tap. It has a friendly and inviting atmosphere and is located right on the water next to the dock. There is also the Bridgeman’s Bistro which serves classic and local dishes.

Where to stay in Port Renfrew

There are some lovely places to stay in Port Renfrew, from oceanfront cottages and vacation rentals to guest houses and campgrounds. Here are my top picks:

WILD RENFREW

This is my favourite place to stay in Port Renfrew. The resort has a range of seaside cottages and studios, some of which have private fire pits and hot tubs. They also have the West Coast Trail Lodge which is a more economical option. There is a 2-night minimum stay here so if you plan to add an extra night on to your trip you could stay here. Check prices >

WILD COAST WILDERNESS RESORT

Located in the heart of Port Renfrew, the Wild Coast Wilderness Resort is a great place to stay. You can choose from private cabins in the woods, rustic yet modern cottages, suites, and hiker huts. Check prices >

GOING COASTAL R&R

If you’re travelling as a family or with a group of friends, this holiday home is a lovely option. It has four bedrooms, two additional sofa beds, a terrace with sea views, and a BBQ and fire pit. Check prices >

Pacific Marine Circle Route Day 2: Port Renfrew to Cowichan Bay

Wake up in beautiful Port Renfrew and grab some breakfast from the Coastal Kitchen Café . Pick up a few extra things for lunch as it’s going to be another busy day on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. This part of the drive will take you through the old growth forests of Port Renfrew to the rolling hills in Cowichan Valley. Cell service is very spotty in this area so you probably won’t have any signal for part of today’s drive.

First Stop: Botanical Beach

Before you start the journey from Port Renfrew to Cowichan Bay, drive down to Botanical Beach. It’s just a 5-minute trip in the car down Cerantes Road to the Botanical Beach parking lot. The hike down to the beach is about 1.5km long but it can be quite muddy depending on the time of the year.

The beach is known for its tide pools which are filled with colourful coral, starfish and other marine life. Make sure you check the tide tables before you go as the pool are only visible at low tide (i.e. when the water is out).

If you want to, you can continue walking along the rainforest loop to Botany Bay. There are some beautiful views along the way. The trail will then take you back to the car park where you started. The whole loop is about 2.8 km long and takes an hour to walk.

Second Stop: Avatar Grove

After Botanical Beach jump back in the car and take a little detour to Avatar Grove. Located about 20 minutes from Port Renfrew, Avatar Grove is home to some of Vancouver Island’s oldest and tallest Western Red Cedar and Douglas fir trees.

There are actually two groves; the upper grove and the lower grove. You’ll have to climb up and down some wooden stairs and board walks to reach both groves. The highlight is Canada’s Gnarliest Tree, a huge cedar tree with several gnarly burl growths on its lower trunk, which can be found in the upper grove. Make sure you wear sensible shoes with good grip as the trails can be quite muddy and slippery in places.

Avatar Grove can be accessed in any car but the last part of the road is unpaved so it can be quite bumpy. If you’re in a 2WD just go slowly and you should be okay.

For those of you travelling in a 4WD, you can continue further afield to Big Lonely Doug, the world’s second largest Douglas fir. If you don’t have a 4WD, you’ll have to miss this stop. Seeing Big Lonely Doug is quite a jarring experience and makes you realize how important it is that we protect old growth forests in British Columbia. In 2012, the Douglas fir was saved by a logger working in the area and today it stands alone in the middle of the clear cut.

Be careful driving to Avatar Grove and Big Lonely Doug as you’re on unpaved logging roads. These roads are still actively used for logging so it’s likely that you’ll meet large logging trucks while driving. They go quite fast and won’t stop for you so make sure you drive very slowly, keep your lights on, and pull over to let them pass where possible.

Third Stop: Fairy Lake

After your detour, drive back down Pacific Marine Road to where you turned off and continue left to your next stop – Fairy Lake. The lake itself is very pretty but the real star is the little bonsai tree. This small Douglas fir tree has somehow managed to defy all odds and grow on a partially submerged log near the edge of the lake.

The best place to stop and take photos of the tree is along Pacific Marine Road just past the turnoff to Fairy Lake Recreation Site. Drive slowly and you’ll spot it from the road. You can pull over onto the hard shoulder and take some photos quickly. 

Fourth Stop: Lake Cowichan

Once you’ve taken some photos, it’s time to drive to Lake Cowichan. This stretch of the Pacific Marine Circle Route is about 55 km long and will take you around an hour to drive so make sure you have some snacks ready!

The town of Lake Cowichan is located on one of the largest freshwater lakes on Vancouver Island, Cowichan Lake. This little community is the gateway to some of the island’s best boating, hiking and hiking and camping experiences. It’s also a good place to stop for gas, supplies and something to eat.

Stretch your legs after the long drive and pop into some of the local shops. Swordfern Boutique and The Lake Mercantile have a beautiful selection of unique gifts and souvenirs, including home décor, jewellery and clothing. 

If you’re interested in history, check out the Kaatza Station Musuem’s collection of logging artefacts and beautiful murals. The museum is housed in a restored railway station and is a great place to learn more about the region’s vibrant past.

Fifth Stop: Cowichan Bay

After you’ve had something to eat, continue along the Pacific Marine Circle Route to your final stop of the day, Cowichan Bay. It’s a 30-minute drive from Lake Cowichan to Cowichan Bay along Highway 18, a.k.a. the Cowichan Valley Highway. Along the way, you’ll pass expansive farmland and lush vineyards and will understand why Cowichan has been dubbed ‘Canada’s Provence’.

Cowichan Valley is one of my favourite weekend trips from Vancouver and I definitely recommend planning a separate visit if you can. As this is only a 3-day itinerary, I recommend staying in Cowichan Bay so you have easy access to some of the best attractions. If you want more information on the area, I have a comprehensive Cowichan Valley travel guide .

Located on the East Coast of the island, Cowichan Bay is a small historic seaside village. Walk along the pier and keep an eye out for Cowichan Bay’s local wildlife. Afterwards, pop into the stores on Main Street which sell beautiful gifts and accessories, such as Beachology and Wild Coast Perfumery. Stop by the Maritime Centre and learn more about this small fishing village through the historic exhibits.

Spend the afternoon at Blue Grouse Estate Winery. Located just outside Cowichan Bay, the estate is set on 65 acres and is one of the oldest vineyards on Vancouver Island. You can book a guided tasting where you’ll get to try five different wines or opt for a tour of the vineyard and wine making process.

Where to stay in Cowichan Bay

Being a small town, there aren’t loads of options when it comes to accommodation in Cowichan Bay. Fortunately there are some lovely places nearby:

OCEANFRONT SUITES

This is my top choice if you want to stay in Cowichan Bay. It’s located close to the pier so you’re walking distance to all of the town’s main attractions.  Check prices >

VILLA EYRIE

Situated on top of Malahat Summit, the hotel overlooks the Pacific Ocean and has amazing views of Finlayson Arm inlet. This hotel is one of the most beautiful resorts in Canada. The architecture and cuisine is inspired by Europe and reminded me a lot of Italy. Check prices >

SALISHAN TREE HOUSE SUITE

Just a 15-minute drive from Cowichan Bay, this tree house is a bit of a hidden gem. It’s beautifully decorated and overlooks the ocean. I love the large glass windows and the balcony where you can enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sunset.  Check prices >

Pacific Marine Circle Route Day 3: Cowichan Bay to Victoria

There are a lot of stops on the way back to Victoria today. You might not be able to fit in all of them before you catch your flight or ferry home so choose your favourites to stop at. Stop by True Grain Bread before you set off for the day and pick up some breakfast bits. This old world inspired European bakery serves some mouth-watering savoury and sweet treats!

First Stop: Kinsol Trestle

Take a short drive to your first stop of the day, Kinsol Trestle. It’s a pretty drive down to the community of Shawnigan Lake and along the lake itself which is today’s second stop.

Standing at 44 metres tall and spanning 187 metres, this spectacular bridge is one of the highest free-standing wooden railway trestles. It once carried trains over the Koksilah River but today it is a pedestrian bridge and is a popular trail for cyclists and walkers. You can walk along the bridge and get some photos at the various viewpoints before heading back to the car.  

Second Stop: Shawnigan Lake

Drive back along the road past Shawnigan Lake until you reach the town. It’s a very small community but it’s a bit of a hidden gem so it’s definitely worth stopping here. Spend some time walking around Shawnigan Village and explore the gift shops and galleries.

Shawnigan House Coffee + Chocolate specializes in handcrafted chocolates and locally roasted coffee. Next door you’ll find Omas Bakery which sells fresh baked goods, daily soups and healthy salad bowls. If the weather is nice, get something to take away and eat in Shawnigan Wharf Park located in the heart of the village.

T hird Stop: Old Baldy Mountain

This is one of my favourite hikes on Vancouver Island and it happens to be located on the Pacific Marine Circle Route so I had to include it! Depending on how much time you have before travelling home, you might be able to squeeze this in.

The hike is quite short and took us about 30 minutes to reach the top; however, it is quite steep in places and is classed as a moderate hike. Once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views over Shawnigan Lake on one side and the peninsula on the other. This is also the home of the (not so) secret tree swing. Sadly, it was broken when we went last year, but it has since been fixed and is now back in action!

Fourth Stop: Merridale Cidery & Distillery

Jump back in the car and take Shawnigan Lake Mill Bay Road for 3km and then turn left onto Cameron Taggart Road. After 2km, turn right onto Merridale Road which will take you down to Merridale Cidery & Distillery.

This is one of my favourite stops on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Everything is made from scratch using locally-grown produce so it really is farm to table and orchard to glass. It’s a lovely place to go for lunch as you can walk through the meadows of apple trees and then sit down in the farm house overlooking the orchard. Their apple cider is delicious but if you’re the designated driver they do also serve non-alcoholic flights including freshly-pressed apple juice and lavender soda.

Fifth Stop: Malahat Skywalk

Once you’ve had some lunch, drive back down Cameron Taggart Road. Go left at the end of the road to join back onto Shawnigan Lake Mill Bay Road. After 2.5km, you’ll reach Highway 1 and will turn right to begin your drive down to Malahat.

Named after the Malahat First Nation, this rugged area has beautiful views of the Saanich Inlet, the Saanich Peninsula, and the Gulf Islands. As you get closer, you’ll notice you are driving along ‘the Malahat’. This is a 25km portion of Highway 1 and is considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world. There are a number of viewpoints and rest areas where you can stop but I recommend continuing onto Malahat Skywalk as you’ll get the best views from this lookout.

The entrance to Malahat Skywalk will be on your left but you’ll have to drive past it as you aren’t allowed to turn left across the highway. Instead, you’ll continue driving until the next exit, come off, and then re-join the highway heading back to Malahat Skywalk.

This is one of Vancouver Island’s newest attractions. You’ll walk through a beautiful arbutus forest to a spiral tower which takes you up to a lookout with 360 degree views. From the top you can see Finlayson Arm, Saanich Peninsula, Mount Baker and the Coast Mountains in the distance. This is one of my favourite  day trips from Victoria  as it’s only a 35-minute drive from the capital city.

S ixth Stop: Goldstream Provincial Park

After you’ve soaked in the views, it’s time to get back on the road. Continue south on Highway 1 for about 25 km (you’ll have to drive north and then come off and re-join the highway south again). At the end of Malahat, you’ll find you next stop, Goldstream Provincial Park.

There are several lovely hiking trails throughout the park ranging from easy to challenging. Mount Finlayson is on the tougher side and is a steep mountain hike with incredible views. If you don’t have much time and just want to stretch your legs, I recommend doing Niagara Falls which is a short and easy 1.3km hike.

Final Stop: Victoria

It’s time to head back to Victoria! The drive will take you approximately 25 minutes to the Inner Harbour, 40 minutes to the airport, and 45 minutes to Swartz Bay. If you have some time to kill, I have a whole guide to Victoria which covers the best things to do as well as recommendations on where to eat.

EXTENDING YOUR TRIP

This 3-day Victoria to Port Renfrew and Cowichan Valley road trip will give you a taste of area’s epic scenery. If you have time and want to see more, you could extend your trip. Here are a few suggestions on how you could spend a few extra days on the Pacific Marine Circle Route:

Add on a day or two at the beginning or end of your road trip so you can explore the capital of British Columbia. It’s a really fun city filled with great food, gorgeous gardens, and a vibrant arts and cultural scene. There are also lots of fun tours that you can join such as whale watching , panoramic seaplane tours , and food tasting tours where you can sample local cuisine.     

Sooke has so much to offer. If you have time, it’s worth adding on an extra day to your itinerary and spending the night in Sooke on your way from Victoria to Port Renfrew. Use the extra time to go whale watching or hike up Mount Manuel Quimper to see one of the last remaining fire lookouts on the island. Stay overnight at Prestige Oceanfront Resort and enjoy breath-taking views of Sooke Basin, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the Olympic Mountains. Read my complete guide to Sooke >

Cowichan Valley

With so much to see and do, I highly recommend adding on a couple of days and exploring more of Cowichan Valley. Spend some time in the picturesque village of Chemainus and discover its giant art murals and trendy boutiques. Visit Duncan, one of the larger towns in the region, and see the beautifully carved totem poles which are scattered across the city. Check out my complete Cowichan Valley travel guide for more information.

OTHER ROAD TRIPS ON VANCOUVER ISLAND

Vancouver Island has no shortage of scenic drives. Here are a few other great road trips to add to your travel bucket list:

V ictoria to Tofino

As you travel almost 320km from east to west, you’ll leave the city behind and find yourself driving through mountain passes and untouched old-growth forests. The first leg of your trip will take you through beautiful Cowichan Valley and onto Parksville. You’ll then drive west to Port Alberni before continuing onto Ucluelet and then Tofino .  Read the full road trip guide >

Nanaimo to Victoria

This is the shortest road trip route (110km) so it’s perfect if you just have a weekend on the island. You can fit in as much or as little as you like as you travel through the Cowichan Valley down to Victoria. If you’re travelling from Vancouver you can take the ferry to Nanaimo, drive down to Victoria, and then take the ferry back from Victoria, or vice versa.

North Vancouver Island

A lot of visitors stick to the southern part of the island. However, drive north past Campbell River and onto Telegraph Cove and you’ll find a remote and rugged wilderness. From secluded beaches and lush rainforests, to unparalleled wildlife experiences like kayaking with orcas and watching grizzly bears hunt salmon, North Vancouver Island has so much to offer. Read the full road trip guide >

FINAL THOUGHTS

I loved exploring the Pacific Marine Circle Route last year. The drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew and Cowichan Valley is absolutely beautiful and I hope this guide helps you plan your own road trip! If you have any questions, please drop them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. I’m always looking to discover new things to do so if I’ve missed anything please let me know so I can check it out on my next trip.

Where to explore next?

Vancouver Island is one of the most beautiful places in British Columbia. I’ve spent a lot of time exploring the island over the past few years so if you’re looking for more information or inspiration, check out my detailed guides .

Here are a few other British Columbia guides that you might like:

• Gibsons: The Gateway to the Sunshine Coast
• Powell River: The Sunshine Coast’s hidden treasure
• A guide to Squamish :  The outdoor recreation capital of Canada
• The complete travel guide to Bowen Island
• 10 Ideas for your next weekend trip from Vancouver

Love from Steph

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More British COLUMBIA GUIDES

The complete guide to hiking Panorama Ridge in one day

Best hikes in Vancouver: 22 Amazing Trails for 2024

Garibaldi Lake Hike: Everything you need to know

18 Amazing and Easy Hikes in Vancouver For Beginners

20 Beautiful Spots To See Cherry Blossoms In Vancouver: The 2024 Guide

The most awesome weekend getaways From Vancouver, BC

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Pacific Marine Circle Tour

The exposed waters of Vancouver Island’s southwestern coast quickly dispel any notion than an ocean is an ocean is an ocean. The true personality of the Pacific is revealed as you traverse the slopes of San Juan Ridge as the Strait of Juan de Fuca makes its entrance from the open water of the Pacific. Conditions shift dramatically from the sheltered waterways of the Strait of Georgia, with its gaggle of tranquil islands. Here you face the open ocean, where nothing breaks the rolling swells or deflects the sting of winter storms.

The Pacific Marine Circle Tour can be driven in a day, but with so many attractions along the way, the 255-km route is best enjoyed as a two to four-day trip. Commence this exciting route in Victoria , the provincial capital of British Columbia. Conde’ Naste Traveler Magazine reader’s poll rated Victoria one of the top ten cities to visit in the world. The picture-perfect Inner Harbour is surrounded by many of Victoria’s beautiful character buildings and premier attractions: the stately Empress Hotel, the provincial Legislative Buildings, museums and galleries.

Head north via Highway 1, and then travel west along the West Coast Highway 14 to the community of Sooke . Sooke’s unspoiled beaches, meandering rainforest trails and breathtaking vistas of Washington State’s Olympic Mountains attract visitors from around the world, eager to catch a glimpse of Vancouver Island’s rugged west coast.

Sooke is the gateway to the scenic West Coast Road, which winds 74 km along the coast to Port Renfrew , and the starting points for the world-famous West Coast Trail and Juan de Fuca Marine Trail . This is one of South Vancouver Island’s most spectacular drives; it winds through coastal rain forest and along the jagged coastline, passed bed and breakfasts and seaside cafes, leading to some amazing beaches found nowhere else on the coast, with views that engender intimacy with the landscape, yet emphasize its isolation. En route is French Beach Provincial Park , the community of Jordan River , and Juan de Fuca Provincial Park (China Beach, Sombrio Beach, and Botanical Beach).

Port Renfrew calls itself the Jewel of the West Coast, where you can experience the tranquility and beauty that has made the West Coast famous. Take a leisurely 15 to 20-minute easy walk to Botanical Beach in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, and discover fascinating tidal pools rich in marine life, one of the best opportunities to view intertidal marine creatures and plants on Vancouver Island. Botanical Beach is one of the most amazing places on the entire West Coast, with tide pools filled like jewel boxes with brightly coloured marine animals. Humpback whales can often be observed feeding mere metres from the rocks.

Depart Port Renfrew on the unpaved Harris Creek Main logging road, which is in good condition and well graded although it is still used by logging trucks – one of the reasons it is well maintained. Keep your eyes peeled for bears and elk in the wilderness around Port Renfrew, as these wild animals can be encountered anywhere in the region.

A pleasant place to stop for a picnic or swim is Lizard Lake , 18 km northeast of Port Renfrew on the Harris Creek Main logging road. Lizard Lake is filled with newts (salamanders), hence the origin of its name. Sit quietly on the swimming dock, and you may see the salamanders swimming up to the surface before disappearing into the depths again. Nearby Fairy Lake, however, is not filled with fairies!

Well worth a stop is the giant Harris Creek Spruce, a tree so big that it would take 15 people to form a human chain around the trunk. The incredible tree is conveniently located right at the roadside, accessed via a small, wooden footbridge.

The legendary Red Creek Fir (73.8 metres high, 12.5 metres in circumference) is situated along the San Juan River, but requires a short hike and clear directions to locate it – don’t rely on markings on road maps to find it.

From Port Renfrew to the quiet shoreline communities of Mesachie Lake and Lake Cowichan in the Cowichan Valley the road is paved and family vehicles can do the trip. Drivers must exercise caution as this road is used by massive logging trucks that take up a good portion of the road, and drivers trying to avoid oncoming traffic can get caught in loose gravel on the side of the road. There are no services available along the route.

The town of Lake Cowichan is the gateway to some of the most spectacular camping and hiking available on Vancouver Island. Other communities such as Honeymoon Bay, Skutz Falls, and Youbou are within easy reach by road. All have access to scenic Cowichan Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes on Vancouver Island. It won’t take long to notice that fishing is more than just a pastime here…it’s a passion and a way of life.

Travelling east on Highway 18 you reach the city of Duncan . You can’t really say you’ve experienced the heart of the Cowichan Region until you’ve made the decision to get out of your car and wander leisurely around downtown Duncan, savouring the city’s shops, restaurants, galleries, and First Nations’ cultural attractions. Take a ‘Totem Tour’ or visit the Quw’utsun’ Cultural & Conference Centre and experience authentic native cuisine, view Coast Salish arts and crafts, or take part in a live native show.

Duncan is home to the BC Forestry Discovery Centre, a museum with interactive logging exhibits, train tours, and antique logging equipment. Adjacent to the museum is the Somenos Marsh Wildlife Refuge and bird sanctuary, which can be viewed from a turnout on the island highway.

The Cowichan Valley region is the heart of Vancouver Island’s burgeoning wine country, a place where you can spend a few hours – or a day or two – sampling award-winning wine and cider, visiting a local cheese maker, and dining in a cozy orchard bistro.

Head south on Highway 1, branching off to the South Cowichan community of Cobble Hill . The Cowichan Valley is characterized by diverse and picturesque landscapes of forests, freshwater lakes, saltwater beaches, and marinas, farmland, and vineyards. Continue to the seaside community of Mill Bay . The surrounding parks and scenery are lovely – perfect for hiking, cycling and boating. This is an ideal spot to spend a few days, basking in the sun and swimming in warm waters.

You may want to stop at Bamberton Provincial Park , one of the more scenic locations on Saanich Inlet. Continue to Victoria on the Trans-Canada Highway 1, which takes you over the Malahat and scenic view points over Saanich Inlet, the Gulf Islands, and the snow-capped Mount Baker in Washington State on the mainland.

After crossing the Malahat, visit Goldstream Provincial Park before continuing south to Victoria. This is a showcase for provincial parks, and the natural beauty of the environment makes this a special place to explore at a leisurely pace. You can easily spend an hour strolling through the impressive old-growth rain forest that is home to 600-year old Douglas-fir trees and western red cedars. In late fall the shallow, clear river is alive with salmon struggling upstream to spawn, just metres away from you. Share the spectacle with raucous seagulls, American dippers, bald eagles and the occasional black bear feeding on spent salmon in the estuary.

3 Days on Vancouver Island’s Pacific Marine Circle Route

Have you ever visited a place a handful of times only to later discover that you had barely discovered it at all? For me, this came to light after a trip around the Pacific Marine Circle Route on southern Vancouver Island, a place I have visited many times over the years. Previous trips had always been centred around visits to Victoria, a city I adore, and Nanaimo. Turns out, along the way I was passing by some incredible sites. From wineries to ancient trees to high-end sports cars, it took an epic road trip to discover more.

This is my experience road tripping around the Pacific Marine Circle route.

Table of Contents

What is the Pacific Marine Circle Route?

Dubbed as “the ultimate road trip – west coast style,” the Pacific Marine Circle Route is a 300 Kilometer loop through southern Vancouver Island’s prettiest parts. Along the way, you pass everything from beaches to breweries and lakes lined with 500-year-old trees. There are wineries and distilleries, unique accommodation options, and tasty eateries to keep you fueled along the way. Clear days bring stunning views of the Olympic Mountains and typical “wet coast” days provide an experience only found in the Pacific Northwest.

On my three day trip around the Pacific Marine Circle Route, I saw everything from summertime sunshine to a dump of snow – each day bringing a different flavour to the journey.

And all of this conveniently begins (and ends) in the seaside town of Sidney.

Sidney, Cider, and Sunsets

I don’t know how many times I have passed by Sidney, never once popping in to say hello. With the Pacific Marine Circle Route starting and ending here I decided to make the two-minute detour off the highway. Turns out, all these years I had missed out on this sleepy seaside town.

See: Sidney by the sea

Coffee in hand from local favourite George’s Café and Deli, we set out for a short stroll along the waterfront.  Sidenote: George’s Café is straight out of the Jetson’s. They deliver sandwiches from the kitchen to counter via tube system. Turns out the future is in Sidney BC. 

Sidney comes to a head at the waterfront, highlighted by the Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa , an affordable an inexpensive luxury getaway for many mainlanders. The area is home to plenty of things to see and do. The Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea is a great little aquarium. If the small size leaves you curious and wanting more, Sidney has you covered. Whale watching and scuba diving expeditions are a stone’s throw away, as is the local fish market on the pier.

After sorting through the shiny and smooth gems of Sea Glass Beach , we continued along the boardwalk taking in the public art before ending up at  Victoria Distillers.  Thankfully we were too early for a tasting. This was for the best as we were only 5 km into the Pacific Marine Circle Route and I had some driving to do. Still, another reason to return to this not so out-of-the-way destination.

See: Malahat and the Cowichan Valley

What I had only known as the stretch of Highway 1 where traffic comes to a halt but “hey that’s OK because the views are great,” turns out to be so much more. If you venture off the highway you will be rewarded with lakeside hiking trails, posh accommodations, and oh-so-many many wineries.

Eat & Drink: Merridale Cidery & Distillery

We didn’t stop at a winery but we did get to experience  Merridale Cidery & Distillery.  Although I personally have not jumped on the cider trend that is happening right now, I finally understood it after visiting Merridale . The tasting of craft made ciders was great (hello Scrumpy! ) but really, I could’ve been swayed by the surroundings. Merridale is so much more than a place to squeeze apples. Situated on a beautiful farm that pushes fresh and local, Merridale is also a small hotel, a distillery, and a restaurant/bar. You can wander the grounds on a self-guided tour or, better yet, take a prepared-with-love “ little red wagon ” picnic basket with you. 

I could’ve also been swayed on cider by the company it keeps. Over a charcuterie board that featured local meats and cheeses, owner and passionate Vancouver Islander Janet Docherty shared everything from her love of the Cowichan Valley to politics and the pretentiousness of some wineries.

Clearly, there is nothing pretentious about Merridale or its staff. Janet is someone you can kill an hour with just talking over house-crafted cocktails. She is also married to the man responsible for loosening the provinces stranglehold on wineries and distilleries so their contributions to the industry go far beyond their Vancouver Island farm.

After a tour of the property and some cider to go, we asked for a sunset recommendation. Janets replied with the Villa Eyrie , which just so happens to be our stop for the night. Perfect.

Sleep: Villa Eyrie

Perched high above the Malahat, Villa Eyrie looms large but in a surprisingly discreet way. As we drove up the switchback driveway and saw the size of the resort I once again questioned how I could have possibly missed it all these years. Originally opened in 1991 as an opulent escape, the property shut its doors in 2009 after failing to truly do its unique location justice. It wasn’t until the GAIN Group purchased and renovated the property did it truly stand out. Today, it’s grand stature and sweeping 180-degree views remains, however, rooms and amenities have been updated.

Located just 30-minutes from downtown Victoria, the on-site spa and mineral pool make the Villa Eyrie an accessible retreat. As I would later find out, the Villa Eyrie has another trick up its sleeve, making it appealing to a completely different crowd.

Race Cars, Rain Forests, and Renfrew

As I pulled back the curtain to take in the morning views I was met with a sea of white. Turns out Villa Eyrie is just high enough on the Malahat summit to turn all that Pacific Northwest rain into snow. Thankfully it did not put a damper on my next event, ripping around a race track in a souped-up sports car.

Do:  Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit

Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit is a one-of-a-kind experience with a one-of-a-kind partnership. Owned by the GAIN Group, the very same as Villa Eyrie, guests of the hotel often split their time behind between laps in the mineral pool and laps on the racetrack. Although semi-exclusive, the Vancouver Island Motorsports Circuit is open to the public and offers visitors a once-in-a-lifetime experience. You can take your own vehicle for a spin around this unique track or sit shotgun in a race car with a professional driver. My time on the track was with the latter.

Five laps around the circuit in a Porsche Cayman S is something that truly has to be felt to appreciate. Now I’m no stranger to high-speed fun. I have looped and spun in a World War II biplane over New Zealand and got up close with Red Bull’s collection of extreme machines in Austria . This, however, was something else.

• The force on your body is crazy, even on my slower wet day visit.
• There’s no way I wouldn’t have crashed my own ride.
• There is such a thing as sea legs on land.

See: Lake Cowichan

Using every fibre of my being not to attempt drifting around the corners, our Pacific Marine Circle Route continued by taking us into the interior of the island. This is where the natural beauty of the region really takes shape. Think crisp lakes lined with green mountains and inviting rivers, even on this freshly snowed day.

To shake off the adrenaline from my race and to experience the region beyond the road we took a stroll along the Cowichan River Provincial Park. A part of the Trans Canada Trail, it’s tall trees and river runoff was only highlighted by the dusting of snow.

Although sleepy in the winter, Lake Cowichan was a good pit stop to have pints at the Riverside Inn before taking a stroll along the floating walkway of Cowichan Lake.

It is easy to imagine the place alive with summertime activities. Boating, canoeing, and river floats are local favourite pastimes. As is spotting Stin Qua ,” the Locness Monster’s Canuck cousin. Truth time, I totally spotted this lake creature. How do I know? Because I saw an odd shape that I thought was a log, disappear with the movement of a fish after I stared at it for too long. True story. I didn’t even know Stin Qua was a thing until after my sighting.

I’m not crazy.

See: Port Renfrew

No matter which direction you choose to take the Pacific Marine Circle Route from Sidney, Port Renfrew is your halfway reward . Although completely new to me opposed to something I have passed by, Port Renfrew is, in itself, a tucked away highlight that is easy to love. It is the kickoff point for the world-famous West Coast Trail , boasts some diverse beaches, and is incredibly laid-back. You won’t find cell coverage here which leads you to enjoy the beautiful surroundings unconnected and uninterrupted. This truly is as refreshing as it sounds.

Port Renfrew also gave me one heck of a show at sundown.

Sleep: Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages

Yes, Port Renfrew is a stunner. It is also incredibly friendly – a place where everyone knows your name and locals go out of their way to make you feel at home. Thankfully for me, home in Port Renfrew was the uniquely located Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages   which required zero help to make me feel any more welcome than I already did.

Perched on the government wharf on one side and overlooking a private beach on the other, Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages  are about as Renfrew as it gets, except for maybe the wireless internet connection.

Eat and Drink: The Renfrew Pub

As if the cosy cottage with modern amenities in a pristine location wasn’t enough, Wild Renfrew is also steps from the one and only Renfrew Pub . I say one-and-only as it is both one of a kind and it is literally the only pub in town. We arrived with cribbage board in hand (because Canada) and found the bar alive with visitors and locals.

Although the Renfrew Pub serves up BC craft beers and awesome food, it is, again, the locals that make the place great. More than one person came over to say hi and comment on my terrible cribbage hands, all said welcome to Renfrew and gave their take on their quiet piece of paradise on the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Do: Avatar Grove

After some straight up home cooking from Tomi’s , we hit the hills for my personal highlight of my time on the Pacific Marine Circle Route – Avatar Grove .

Home to “Canada’s gnarliest tree,“ Avatar Grove is so much more than massive trees with old world growth. Wild Renfrew GM and straight up tree-whisperer Sheenah Duclos took us on an educated walk through the woods…and what an education it was. From the ancient coming of age Pacheedaht first nation rituals to differentiating between wood and super hard mushrooms, Sheenah covered it.

Divided into an upper and lower trail, Avatar Grove is considered Port Renfrew‘s Cathedral Grove. With trees dating back 500+ years, it is more of a walk-through time than through the woods. These pristine walking trails were only recently set up by the Ancient Forest Alliance (which is exactly what it sounds like it is) and have quickly become a highlight for the region. 

It’s easy to see why.

Beaches, Potholes, and Akvavit 

See: sandcut beach.

Neck strained from towering timbers, we said our goodbyes to Port Renfrew and hit the road. Port Renfrew to Sooke is arguably the most scenic section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route. Much of the West Coast Road takes you high above the Strait of Juan de Fuca and, thanks to some unfortunate clearcutting close to the road, views are obstructed across to the Olympic Mountains.

Once you descend to the shore you will find several hiking trails and beaches to explore. Taking a recco from Sheenah, we stopped at Sandcut Beach . After a beautiful 10-minute hike through the woods, you are rewarded with a rocky beach scattered with driftwood and views of the Olympic Mountains. Although that is nothing to scoff at, the true draw of Sandcut Beach is a small double waterfall.

Well done Vancouver Island, well done.

Drink: Sheringham Distillery

Post waterfall hike we made a slight detour all because of a roadside sign advertising a distillery. Why not? This Pacific Marine Circle Route is all about seeing what’s behind door number two. A 5-minute drive off the highway we were at Sheringham Distillery sipping craft gin and award-winning Akvavit paired with some great views.

Turns out this detour won’t be required for long as  Sheringham’s is setting up shop in Sooke.

Eat: Shirley Delicious

$80 worth of made-with-love gin and vodka later, we found ourselves back on track. Although not hungry, a stop at Shirley Delicious is must no matter which direction you do the Pacific Marine Circle Route.

Besides being a surprisingly happening spot, Shirley Delicious serves up unique coffee creations (hello mexi-latte, made with real Mexican vanilla) and incredibly tasty sandwiches. Highly recommend.

See: Whiffen Spit & The Sooke Potholes

Racing against a setting sun we hit Sooke’s two most unique natural highlights, the Whiffen Spit and Sooke Potholes .

Stretching deep through the bay, Whiffin Spit is a natural breakwater which offers a unique stroll. Popular with local dog walkers and curious tourists, it is a 30-minute leisurely walk to the tip. Along the way, you can spot everything from seals and seabirds to grazing deer and nesting ducks.

Although no secret, a visit to the Sooke Potholes is a must when visiting in the summer months. Soak in the natural occurring pools or take in the views from high above.

With daylight fading, we hit the road for the homestretch, stopping at the gas station adjacent to Sooke Oceanside Brewery for a quick flight. Sooke seriously deserves more time and should be noted for your trip around the Pacific Marine Route. My loss is your gain.

Tea, Tugboats, and Baby Goats

Since I have been to Victoria several times, (it truly is one of my favourite cities in Canada! ) I decided to view it through the out-of-the-way-yet-in-front-of-your-eyes approach I learned to love on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. This all started at the Inn at Laurel Point , a beautiful hotel quietly tucked away yet close to it all.

Sleep: Inn at Laurel Point

The Inn at Laurel Point is many things. Besides offering spacious and modern suites to comfortably call Victoria home, this waterfront hotel truly is a retreat within the city. Views from the large Erickson wing balconies are never dull. With tiny tugboats to passenger ferries ( like the V2V Empress ) to seaplanes landing at your front door, I could seriously return to Victoria just to enjoy the unique action of the Victoria harbour.

The hotel is also a museum of sorts. With the hotel owners personal collection on full display, wandering its halls and grounds is unlike any other hotel I have stayed in.

Then there is the Japanese garden lining the back side…

See: Fisherman‘s Wharf

From the Japanese garden, I continued along the seawall to Fisherman’s Wharf. Although it is by no means hidden or out-of-the-way, especially if you visit Victoria on a cruise ship, I had never been. To my surprise, this colourful group of floating homes also includes shops and restaurants as well as a dock for the colourful water taxis making it an appealing stroll.

Do: Beacon Hill Petting Zoo

After stopping for coffee to go from the brunch favourite Nourish Kitchen & Café , we continued on to Beacon Hill Park . Although there is no shortage of flowers to smell or trails to explore, the real draw, for me and any other child at heart at least, is its goats.

The Beacon Hill Children’s Farm is a petting zoo that is sure to put a smile on your face. From Vietnamese potbelly pigs to chicken sporting pom-poms on their heads, this place is great. Our timing aligned with baby goats and lambs making baby goat and baby lamb sounds.

Eat: Abkhazi Garden 

With calluses on hands and our welcome worn out we left the goats to do a very Victorian thing – enjoy afternoon tea. I have had afternoon tea in Victoria before so with this in mind I looked for a place a little out-of-the-way and a lot unique. The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden met the criteria and then some.

Seemingly hidden in the Gonzales neighbourhood, The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden offers guests a perfectly Victorian afternoon tea ambience in a one of a kind place. Former home to the last prince of Abkhazia, the story of how this place came to be is the stuff of romance novels .

In a nutshell, girl meets boy in Paris. Boy turns out to be a prince in exile. Girl, adopted by a vagabonding socialite, kept in contact with boy. Both boy and girl survive World War II in captivity and reunite in New York, marry, and settle in Victoria. There the Prince and Princess set their roots, building the wonderful gardens that are now free for all to enjoy.

Yes, tea at the  Abkhazi Garden is truly unique.

See: Chinatown

Even though I was full up on my caffeine intake for the day I wanted to seek out a hip coffee shop that was new to me. I landed at Habit  and it did not disappoint. Bonus, it is next to Fan Tan Alley , a Chinatown gem I only discovered on my last visit while on a Taste of Victoria Food Tour.

Coffee in hand I took one last stroll through North America’s second oldest Chinatown before saying goodbye to Victoria and the Pacific Marine Route.

Pacific Marine Circle Route Wrapped 

As I boarded our BC Ferry back to the mainland I thought back on the blur that was my time on the Pacific Marine Circle Route. I truly packed a ton in with most of it just out of sight from the dozen or so previous visits to the area. Still, I only scratched the surface leaving me to wonder “what else is hidden in plain sight?”

Beyond the natural beauty of Vancouver Island, that is the beauty of the Pacific Marine Circle Route. There is always something new to explore, no matter how you tackle it. So on your next road trip, be it Vancouver Island or not, get off the major route. Explore and experience what is not-so-far-off the beaten trail. You will be surprised at what you find.

What are your thoughts on the  Pacific Marine Circle Route ? Let’s hear it!

For more reviews from Canada  and beyond see HERE .

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My time road tripping around the Pacific Marine Circle Route was made possible by a Tourism Victoria . As always, the experience, opinions, and new discoveries are my own.

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Pacific Marine Circle Tour

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Package overview, four nights, + return ferry.

+ taxes and fees, per person based on double occupancy

Package includes:

• One night in Ladysmith at Microtel Inn and Suites by Wyndham Ladysmith Oyster Bay
• Two nights in Port Renfrew at Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages
• One night in Victoria at Inn at Laurel Point 
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Metro Vancouver to Ladysmith

Sail across the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo, making sure to look out for coastal wildlife during the scenic ferry ride. Once you're arrived on Vancouver Island, head south towards the quaint seaside village of Ladysmith. Spend the rest your day exploring local trails and chasing waterfalls at Stocking Creek Waterfalls, Christie Falls and Stocking Creek Trail.

Lodging: Microtel Inn and Suites by Wyndham Ladysmith Oyster Bay

Ladysmith to Port Renfrew

After a hearty breakfast at your hotel, begin your drive towards Port Renfrew. Once arrived, take advantage of the area's sandy beaches and go hunting for crystal tidal pools brimming with intertidal marine life.

Lodging: Wild Renfrew  Seaside Cottages

Port Renfrew

Start your day with a scenic coastal drive to Jordan River - home of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail which follows 47km of wilderness stretching along the shoreline giving access to stunning sandy beaches including Mystic and China Beach. In the evening catch the sunset by your resort and relax by your campfire.

Lodging:   Wild Renfrew  Seaside Cottages

Port Renfrew to Victoria

Drive east along winding roads to Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, famous for its clear, deep pools and unique rock formations. Enjoy the rest of your day in Victoria at your own pace. Sample local cuisine and craft beer, check out the Royal BC Museum and Inner Harbour, shop on Government Street or wander to Fisherman's Wharf for fish and chips.

Lodging: Inn at Laurel Point Package Upgrades:   Butchart Gardens  or  see more Victoria activities  

Victoria to Metro Vancouver

Conclude your Vancouver Island tour with brunch at one of the must-try spots in the heart of downtown, or venture to the Butchart Gardens or Butterfly Gardens before catching the ferry back to Metro Vancouver. Package Upgrades:   Butchart Gardens  or  Victoria Butterfly Gardens

Make the journey your own

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Cycling Route in North Saanich , British Columbia , Canada

Pacific Marine Circle Tour

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Saint Petersburg - Interactive map

Information about the map.

Check out the main monuments, museums, squares, churches and attractions in our map of St. Petersburg. Click on each icon to see what it is.

To help you find your way once you get to your destination, the map you print out will have numbers on the various icons that correspond to a list with the most interesting tourist attractions. This way, you’ll be able to see where each attraction is.

Icons on the St. Petersburg interactive map

The map is very easy to use:

• Check out information about the destination: click on the color indicators.
• Move across the map: shift your mouse across the map.
• Zoom in: double click on the left-hand side of the mouse on the map or move the scroll wheel upwards.
• Zoom out: double click on the right-hand side of the mouse on the map or move the scroll wheel downwards.

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Where to eat

Vodka, caviar, borscht... the list of Russian delicacies goes on! Discover where, when and what to eat during your trip to Saint Petersburg.

General information

Learn everything you need to know for your trip to Saint Petersburg, from visa requirements and currency to language tips and which plugs to bring! We'll try and answer all of your most frequently asked questions.

Port of Saint Petersburg Overview | 10 Best Things To Do In Saint Petersburg

Welcome to the port of Saint Petersburg!

St Petersburg is the second-largest city in Russia and the major gateway between the Baltic Sea and Russia. Its rich history and lavish architecture have made it one of the most visited cities in the world and a must-stop when cruising Northern Europe. In this Saint Petersburg travel guide, read about:

• Port of Saint Petersburg (Saint Petersburg cruise terminal, getting around)
• 10 best things to do in Saint Petersburg port & St Petersburg shore excursions

Visit also our cruise port guides to Helsinki , Tallinn , Oslo , Bergen , Tromso , Alesund , Stockholm , Copenhagen

Port of Saint Petersburg

Saint Petersburg port is located at the eastern end of the Gulf of Finland, and most of the cruise ships dock at Vasilyevsky Island. Cruise ship schedule in port can be limited to hours or in some cases up to three days, so you must have everything ready to enjoy the most of your stay in St Petersburg.

St Petersburg cruise port has two main docking places: The Marine Facade, and English Embarkment.

• The Marine Facade passenger port is the biggest one and it is located approximately a 30-minute drive (about 11 km/6.8 miles) from the Saint Petersburg city center. This brand-new building facility is massive and consists of 8 terminals designed to accommodate the largest cruise ships. At the Marine Facade facility terminals, you will encounter different souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants, ATMs (only for Russian currency), a Taxi Booth, and information Assistance. There is no Wi-Fi in the port.
• Lieutenant Schmidt Quay or the English Embarkment cruise terminal is located very close to the city center. The distance between this port and the Hermitage Museum is only 2 km/1.2 miles, or a 20-minute walk. However, the English Embarkment can only accommodate small ships.

Important Information

• For first-time visitors, this experience can be a little bit overwhelming; not only because of the language but also due to the many rules and regulations you will encounter when coming to Russia.
• The first thing you will need to do when planning your time in St Petersburg is to check if you require a visa for Russia. If you want to get around the city of Saint Petersburg on your own (without joining an organized shore excursion by your cruise line/independent tour company), you need to apply for a visa in your home country, as it is not possible to obtain it upon arrival. Getting this visa can take up to 2 months. Get the Russian visa information at www.saint-petersburg.com/russian-visa/ .
• If you can’t obtain a visa at home or want to avoid the hustle, don’t worry, you can still visit the city by booking an organized shore excursion through the cruise line as this will be your official pass.
• The immigration process is mandatory to exit the terminal building and return to the ship. This process is slow on the first day of arrival as each passport is checked thoroughly and can take up to one hour or more.
• Guests joining the cruise ship shore excursions will meet onboard the ship, be escorted in groups to Immigration and then to the bus parking lot. Each member of your family must have the physical passport, tour ticket, and cruise ship card ready when going through Immigration.
• If taking shore excursions with an Independent tour company , check with the Guest Services Desk in advance about the disembarkation process for you and bring your tour confirmation. You will also need to present a physical passport, tour confirmation, and cruise ship card to the Immigration Officers. A representative of your selected tour company should be waiting for you with a sign right outside the terminal building.

Getting Around & Local Transportation

• It’s important to take into consideration that during peak summer months you will encounter traffic, congestion, waiting and queueing at the main attractions, due to the number of cruise ship passengers and regular visitors, so be ready and be patient.
• There is no shuttle bus provided from the St Petersburg cruise port to the city center.
• If you are adventurous and do not require a Russian visa, there is a bus 158 that stops at each terminal around every 30 minutes . This bus stops at Primorskaya Station where you then can take the metro to Nevsky Prospekt. This is quite an experience, just make sure you have local currency, a good map, and a translator.
• The currency in Russia is the Russian ruble (RUB). The exchange rate: 1 US dollar = around 91 rubles, 1 EUR = around 98 rubles. Make sure you always have some cash as not all places accept credit cards.
• From Nevsky Prospekt, it is easier to walk to some of the main highlights such as the Church of the Spilled Blood, St Issac´s Cathedral, and the Hermitage. You can also find canal tours and Hop on Hop off bus stops.

10 Best Things To Do In the Port of Saint Petersburg

There are many attractions in St Petersburg and often not enough time to see all of them, but below I will list some of the most popular amongst the cruise ship passengers.

1. Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood

This is probably one of the most visited landmarks in the city. The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood is located somewhat less than a 30-minute drive from the Marina Facade cruise port, in the city center. This 19th-century, sumptuously decorated multicolored church was built by the order of Alexander III on the site where his father had been assassinated.

The iconic church houses the Museum of Mosaics and is situated in the vicinity of stunning city gardens and palaces, such as Mikhailovsky Garden, Summer Garden, the Field of Mars, St. Michael’s Castle, Marble Palace, and many more.

Explore Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood tours & tickets

2. St Issac’s Cathedral

Overlooking the vast Alexander Garden and St. Issac’s Square, Saint Issac’s Cathedral or the Isaakievskiy Sobor is a monumental Orthodox basilica and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. The church was ordered in the 19th century by Tsar Alexander I and has been transformed into a museum since the Soviet reign. This exquisite Orthodox cathedral is located in the city center and features an impressive gold-plated dome and opulent interior. Its golden dome dominates the skyline of the city, and you can climb the spiral stair that will lead you to the viewpoint at 43 meters high where you can admire the 360-degree view of the city.

Check out St. Issac’s Cathedral tours

3. The Hermitage Museum

Located in the baroque Winter Palace State, in the city center, the Hermitage is the second-largest museum in the world after the Louvre with over 3 million items. It was founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great and features enormous collections of art, culture, and antiquities, housed in six different buildings. Getting tickets in advance is recommended as normally you will encounter long lines at the entrance. Organized shore excursions will save you time as they will get the entrance tickets for you in advance.

Explore Hermitage Museum tours

4. Nevsky Prospekt Avenue

Admire the beautiful and opulent architecture of the most famous avenue in St Petersburg, spanning from the Admiralty to the Alexander Nevski Monastery. Located right in the heart of the city, this avenue is full of shopping stores, restaurants, and cafes overflowing with locals and tourists. Some of the highlights you will find along Nevsky Prospekt are the Kazan Cathedral and the National Russian Library .

Explore Nevsky Prospekt tours and activities

5. Explore the City’s Rivers and Canals

Taking a boat trip is a must-do when visiting St Petersburg, especially during the White Nights Season (end of May to mid-July). During this period the sun never fully sets and the sky stays bright with a light similar to the sunset. Seeing St. Petersburg highlights from a different perspective while sipping champagne or enjoying a folkloric show is quite an incredible experience!

Check out channel and riverboat cruise excursions

6. Fabergé Museum

Housed in the 18th-century Shuvalov Palace, in the heart of the city, the Fabergé Museum is a tribute to the famous Russian jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé. This museum holds over 4000 pieces of Russian artistic work, the world’s largest and most impressive collection of Fabergé eggs including nine unique Easter eggs created by the artist for the last two Russian emperors. Tickets can be purchased online or on the same day directly at the museum.

Explore Faberge Museum tours

7. Russian Ballet Performance

Ballet is an essential part of Russian Culture and it is considered one of the best in the world. The city offers a wide variety of daily performances and stage masterpieces such as Swan Lake and The Nutcracker.  Mariinsky Theater is one of the most renowned and important Theaters in the city, so make sure to get your tickets in advance.

Explore Russian ballet tours & admission tickets

8. Peterhof Palace

This palace is probably one of the most visited palaces in Russia not only for its history but for its beautiful architecture and stunning fountains. This summer imperial palace is located 30 km from St Petersburg (a 45-minute drive from the cruise port) and the design was inspired by the Palace of Versailles after Peter the Great’s visit to France.

To visit the whole Peterhof museum complex takes more than a day so you must prioritize your visit to the Grand Palace and the Gardens. Getting here with an organized shore excursion is the best option so you will not have to worry about the long lines at the ticket booth; however, besides the line to get the tickets, there is also a line to get inside the Grand Palace. For adventurous people, you can take a hydrofoil to Peterhof from the city center you will be in Peterhof in 40 minutes; this is the fastest way, but it is the most expensive as well.

Explore top-rated Peterhof tours

9. Catherine’s Palace

The summer residence of the Romanov family is located around a 40-minute driving distance from the Marine Facade cruise port (35 km/22 miles from the city center), in the suburb area of Pushkin (Tsarkoye Selo). This beautiful state is included in the Unesco World Heritage sites and was a gift from Peter the Great to his wife Catherine II.

The baroque style of the palace and its interior decoration will make you feel like a prince/princess, especially when walking down the biggest treasure of the Palace, the famous Amber room.  Very often you will find brides and grooms taking portraits at this amazing landmark. When visiting inside you will be required to wear shoe protection, and a picture or video taking is restricted in certain halls.

Explore Catherine’s Palace tours

10. Moscow Day Trip

Exploring Russia’s capital city is on everybody’s bucket list when planning your visit to Russia. You will need to dedicate a full day to this adventure due to the distance from St. Petersburg to Moscow (about 700 km; 435 mi). The best option is to take an organized shore excursion because you will be guided and taken care of from beginning to end.

You will take a 4-hour high-speed train to get to Moscow and then transfer to a bus for a guided sightseeing tour of the city’s main highlights including the famous Red Square and its iconic St Basils Cathedral and Kremlin, the official President’s home. The Government building is not open to the public but you can definitely visit some of the museums and monuments located within the walls of the Kremlin.

This article may contain affiliate / compensated links. For full information, please see my disclaimer here.

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