conde nast traveller florence restaurants

22 Best Restaurants in Florence

There’s never been a better time to dine out in Tuscany’s capital.

Regina Bistecca

Essenziale (temporarily closed)

L’Angolo Del Mare

Osteria dell’Enoteca

Il Santo Bevitore

Cantinetta Antinori

La Ménagère

Trattoria Cibrèo

Borgo San Jacopo

Gurdulù Gastronomia

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura

Trattoria Sabatino

Gunè San Frediano

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• Los Angeles

The 21 best Florence restaurants

The best restaurants in Florence exude elegance and rustic charm (or sell really good sandwiches)

When it comes to Italian food, Florence is where it’s at. This is the birthplace of gelato , bistecca fiorentina , and even vodka pasta, don’t you know? In the heart of the Tuscan hills, this city is known for its meat dishes, from wild boar pappardelle to tripe sandwiches). 

But don’t be mistaken, no one goes hungry here – veggies can get stuck into truffle pastas, summery panzanella and hearty soups like ribollita , made from veggies, beans and soaked bread. Here, you can c hoose from rustic family-run trattorias tucked down cobbled side streets, or more glamorous destinations with flower-covered walls and cellars strewn with fairy lights. Our local writers have scoured every one of them. Read on for the best in Florence. 

RECOMMENDED: 📍 The best things to do in Florence 🍝 The perfect weekend in Florence 🏡 The best Airbnbs in Florence 🏨 The best  hotels in Florence

This guide was recently updated by Phoebe Hunt , a writer based in Florence.  At Time Out, all of our  travel guides  are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our  editorial guidelines .  

Been there, done that? Think again, my friend.

Best Florence restaurants

1.  trattoria cammillo.

Just over the Arno river in Florence’s bohemian Santo Spirito quarter, Trattoria Cammillo is a Florentine stalwart that’s hardly changed since it opened in 1945. In fact, the grandchildren of Cammillo himself are still at the helm, and you’ll find Chiara, the matriarch of the family, in here most days. The vibe is loud and delightfully chaotic, but the seasonal specials never fail to deliver: go for persimmon tiramisu in autumn, lightly fried courgette flowers in spring, and whatever pasta dish is on the daily-changing list of ‘piatti del giorno.’

2.  Il Santo Bevitore

Il Santo Bevitore is one of Florence’s most romantic restaurants, especially on summer evenings, when streetside tables spill out onto the street and couples stroll by arm in arm. The food at Il Santo Bevitore is excellent, but it’s as much about the wine here, with a strong natural wine offering and hundreds of bottles to choose from. Flickering candles and exposed stone walls make this place at once rustic and elegant. Founded by three childhood friends who are passionate about ingredients and provenance, the interiors are simple enough to let the food shine.

3.  Trattoria Cibrèo

Tucked away in a corner of the Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood, Cibrèo championed nose-to-tail cooking decades before it became cool. Since the late seventies, visionary chef Fabio Picci brought so-called ‘peasant food’ (cucina povera) from the home kitchen to the restaurant scene, serving chicken heads, tripe and stale bread soup (ribollita) without apology. Gradually his restaurant empire grew into a cafe, an organic supermarket and an asian-fusion restaurant, transforming this unpolished market square into Florence’s culinary epicentre.

4.  Trattoria Marione

Two words: boar sauce. Old-school style in ambience and cooking techniques, Trattoria Marione  is perennially filled with Italians on their lunch break or out to dinner with friends. Make sure to order the seasonal specials and ask for the waiter’s recommendations. Call in advance to secure a table, especially during the Italian holidays. And make sure you order the Florentine ribollita. 

5.  Trattoria Mario

This little trattoria offers family-style seating (you can learn some Italian while here!) at low tables. Join usual diners in ordering carafes of red wine to go along with the rich Tuscan dishes. Trattoria Mario  oozes pure Florentine cooking, serving traditional favourites that have been around for centuries. The menu changes daily, but make sure you get whatever’s got the ragù in or with it.

6.  Il Giova

This place is not for tourists: the eclectic decor and tightly packed tables don’t call to mind the sort of ambience that many look for when visiting. Il Giova is a family-run local lunch spot perennially crowded with folks craving the daily changing menu, concocted by the owners each morning depending on what’s found fresh at the San Ambrosio market across the street. If you notice the fried porcini mushrooms on the menu, you have struck gold.

7.  Ristorante Buca San Giovanni

When you dine at Ristorante Buca San Giovanni , you're dining underground. Like  stepping into a cave, the restaurant is found  inside a beautiful 1300s church crypt decorated with ragged stone archways and religious imagery. ‘Buca’ in Italian today means ‘hole’, but originally it was a place where pilgrims and knights stopped to eat. It was also a hiding spot for members of secret societies, and we'd say there’s still a certain mysterious vibe to the place. The food served has evolved into fancy twists: expect dishes like risotto with celery mousse and marrons glacés  (candied chestnuts).

8.  Osteria Santo Spirito

This osteria sits right at the corner of one of the friendliest piazzas in all of Florence and one that many tourists miss because they don’t venture far enough into the other side of the river. Osteria Santo Spirito is worth the walk, trust us: the portions are larger than most (half-portions are also available...why would you want that?), the ambience is purely magical, and, most importantly, the sizzling truffle and cheese gnocchi is to die for.

9.  Antico Ristoro di Cambi

Florentines are meat lovers. How could they not be? In the fertile green plains of Tuscany graze premium Chianina cows that make unique, huge thick steaks, which Florentines love (usually opting for rare). The temple of Chianina is Antico Ristoro di Cambi , and a proper Florence experience, with fascinating vaulted ceilings, dangling pork legs and huge wine flasks. The T-bone steak is the centrepiece here: it overflows the plate, and definitely requires two people to finish it off. 

10.  Il Latini

Family run and a local favourite, walking into Il Latini feels like walking into the family kitchen and, well, you sort of are. The traditional Tuscan restaurant tucked into the narrow streets by Piazza Repubblica boasts a full menu of Florentine favourites, from crostini appetizers to a mixed roast platter or Florentine steak. Locals tend to quickly fill up the tables, so it’s best to make a reservation in advance. Bonus points: dogs are treated even more generously than their human counterparts here.

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Condé Nast Traveller's First German Edition Hits Newsstands

The first German-language edition of Condé Nast Traveller will be available in stores on September 6, 2024. Under the title "Arrived!" , the 220-page magazine brings together the brand's international expertise and invites readers to rediscover Germany, Austria and Switzerland as travel destinations. The cover shows an aerial photograph of Thalgau-Egg at the foot of the Schober, from where the view extends over the Salzkammergut, Lake Mondsee and the Fuschlsee region. The region is currently attracting international travelers, but its local peculiarities are largely undiscovered. An editorial highlight is the report on the Ahr Valley: After the devastating flood in 2021, the region is still rebuilding and is consistently developing for tourists. Following in the footsteps of Berlin techno, the editorial team visited its pioneers and their current places of work: some of the best galleries and restaurants in the city. And 20 personalities from film, music, sport and gastronomy talk about the travels that have shaped them. Condé Nast Traveller celebrated the launch of the debut issue on Monday, September 2nd with an exclusive dinner at the Helmut Newton Foundation in the Museum of Photography in Berlin.

“With each issue, on our website and our social media channels, we want to bring our readers closer to the hottest and most inspiring travel destinations in the world. Destinations that inspire us ourselves. Because we only report on what we have seen and experienced on site ,” says Dennis Braatz, Head of Editorial Content, Condé Nast Traveler Germany.

A look at the first German-language edition of Condé Nast Traveller Lake Fuschl is the gateway to the Salzkammergut. The recently opened Rosewood Schloss Fuschl is currently attracting people from all over the world, but the region itself often remains largely undiscovered. Condé Nast Traveller has explored the region with its extensive nature, lakes and numerous adventure opportunities .

14 pages are dedicated to the Ahr Valley: In 2021, 135 people fell victim to the flood, and houses and infrastructure were destroyed. For the report, Senior Digital Editor Lisa Riehl traveled to the region and spoke to local restaurateurs such as Markus Bell, winemakers such as Dörte and Meike Näkel, and hoteliers such as Andreas Carnott about the region's culinary diversity and how they want to not only rebuild the Ahr Valley, but also significantly develop it further with new ideas and approaches.

Condé Nast Traveller traces the history of Berlin techno (which gained UNESCO's cultural heritage status in the spring) in a twelve-page special and spoke to those who have shaped the city, including Dimitri Hegemann (Tresor), Heinz Gindullis (Cookies Cream) and Maria Koch (032c), about what keeps the city constantly changing to this day and how Berlin has found its own way of dealing with gentrification.

Head of Editorial Content Dennis Braatz and Senior Features Editor Kalle Harberg spoke to 20 personalities from film, music, sport and gastronomy about the trips that have shaped them: Zazie Beetz finds the peace and quiet of the Costa Rican sea, Iris Berben looks back humbly on a three-week expedition cruise to Antarctica: "I can't remember ever having such a soft smile on my face, but at the same time so many tears in my eyes, (...)." İlkay Gündoğan experienced the feeling of peace and freedom on a hot air balloon ride with his wife in Cappadocia: "It was an experience that we as a couple will certainly not forget." Tim Raue, on the other hand, had his culinary awakening in Singapore in 2004: "I ate at the Jade restaurant in the Fullerton Hotel. The chef at the time was Sam Leong. The restaurant had none of the attitude of French or German gourmet temples. I decided to adapt this kitchen and create something that would suit me .”

Exclusive opening dinner at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin To celebrate the first edition, Condé Nast Traveller and the Helmut Newton Foundation invited selected guests from film, TV, lifestyle, culture, gastronomy and travel, including Divia Thani, Global Editorial Director of Condé Nast Traveller, Florence Kasumba, Maximilian Mundt and Xenia Adonts, to an exclusive dinner at the Helmut Newton Foundation in the Museum of Photography on Monday, September 2nd. The joint special exhibition "Helmut Newton x Condé Nast Traveller" will also start there on Tuesday, September 3rd. The guests then rounded off the evening in the Berlin Art & Social Club Studio 1111. The launch event was organized together with the Helmut Newton Foundation and supported by Explora Journeys, Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, Maserati and Don Julio.

The Best Restaurants In Florence

photo credit: Sofie Delauw

Coral Sisk & Georgette Jupe

June 6, 2024

Florence is a whole hell of a lot in a very small place. But beyond the main squares filled with perfectly sculpted statues of naked men, groups of camera-wielding tourists, and annoying street performances are a ton of worthy detours, including some of the best food and handmade gelato in the city.

Locals might say that things aren’t the same as they once were. And while that’s true, the city’s food options are better for it. You'll still find classic Florentine institutions serving the rarest and most tender steak you’ll ever have, but nowadays, those spots are around the corner from experimental tasting menu spots and fancy cocktail bars.

When it comes to picking a restaurant, avoid anything that's a stone’s throw from the Duomo. Instead, concentrate on areas like Sant’Ambrogio, or the other side of the river, the Oltrarno, where you'll find a lot of the spots on this guide. And remember: Good places fill up easily for lunch and dinner, so reservations are a must for almost every place on this list.

photo credit: Oscar Covini

Trattoria Da Burde

You’re not going to stumble into Da Burde. It’s closer to the airport than Michelangelo’s David, but it’s worth the trek for some really good Florentine cuisine, unabashedly served only for lunch (and for dinner on Friday). The family behind it has been running the place since 1901, and the current generation is just as feisty as the last. Once you step inside, you’ll be greeted by a delicatessen counter and grocery corner for those who want to drop in for some to-go cured meats, a slice of cake, or some gossip about just how long Florence will take to build their next train line. Go a little further and you’ll enter the dining room that’s full of really old art on the walls and locals snacking on chicken liver crostini. They do hearty Tuscan classics justice, like pasta e fagioli, ribollita, mixed-meat bollito (expect a bit of cow tongue), and pappa al pomodoro.

Alla Vecchia Bettola

Alla Vecchia Bettola is a neighborhood trattoria that feels like a party, and it’s worth going beyond the historical center to have dinner here. We’d like to write an ode to their namesake pasta: al dente penne soaked in a creamy vodka tomato sauce with a spicy kick to it. The crowd is made up of local best friends slapping each other on the back, retirees catching up after summer break, and, naturally, tourists. It’s a fun, chaotic place where it’s easy to linger at the communal tables covered in straw bottles of Chianti. This is also a good spot to get Florentine’s signature bistecca, served rare with just salt, pepper, and a nice crust, and so tender you can cut it with a butter knife.

Vini E Vecchi Sapori

Piazza della Signoria

There are plenty of tourist traps firmly camped out in Florence’s main squares, which makes Vini e Vecchi Sapori a bit of an anomaly. It’s the safest (and best) bet near Piazza della Signoria for both lunch and dinner. This old tavern features walls full of vintage photographs and marble-topped wooden tables pushed close together, and is filled with loud Italians catching up over Tuscan staples. Whatever you do, don't ask for an Aperol spritz—they have a big section on the menu that reads “no pizza, no ice, no takeaway, spritz or cappuccino.” It’s a refreshing departure from the many places in the city that only cater to an Italy that only exists on TikTok. This is a great place to try peposo, a warm-you-up beef stew braised in local wine and slow-cooked with black pepper, but they also do exceptional pasta like paccheri in a sauce of zucchini flowers and saffron or the pappardelle with duck sauce.

Trattoria Sabatino

Sabatino is a bit like your grandpa who still insists on writing checks—they simply refuse to change how they do things (and of course, this is why we love them). The Buccioni family has been running this San Frediano timewarp since 1956 with terracotta floors, a daily typewritten menu, and rusty Tuscan agriculture tools hanging on the walls. If it feels like everyone in the neighborhood knows them, that’s because they probably do. Bankers and construction workers sit next to each other in the cavernous communal dining space, flinging around greetings and sarcasm, and digging into thick-cut slices of Tuscan salami with perfectly ripe figs. Everything is delicious, but don’t expect any fancy garnishes or presentations—dining here is really like sitting down with the Italian family you wish you had. Get here at noon to secure a spot.

Retrobottega

Florence is no stranger to popular sandwich places—yes, we’re talking about All’Antico Vinaio and its lines longer than the entrance to the Uffizi. But for our favorite panino, head to Retrobottega near Piazza della Signoria. Unlike the city’s other sandwich spots, they have (gasp, shock) space to sit inside and a great Happy Hour where you can snack on some crostini and sip a glass of organic wine as you take down an affordable panini. Order the Bambola with salty, crunchy schiacciata and watch them assemble your masterpiece with slices of mortadella, pistachio pesto, and a zing of lime zest. We also like the Sloppy Rob that’s stuffed with delicious pulled beef cooked slowly in red wine and served with crunchy onions and homemade honey mustard.

Trattoria Ruggero

Trattoria Ruggero is just outside the city’s walls beyond Porta Romana. So while it might be a little bit of a walk (it’s roughly 20 minutes from the Ponte Vecchio), it’s worth checking out this rustic Tuscan restaurant where locals have been loudly clinking glasses of wine and shouting over each other for over 40 years. The handwritten menus can be slightly hard to read, so let us be of assistance: start with some classic earthy Tuscan liver pate, tack on an order of carrattiera spicy tomato pasta, and follow it all up with the arista, a huge plate of slow-roasted pork loin with seasonal vegetables. Also worth noting is the very satisfying ribollita—a centuries-old soup recipe that’s made with cabbage, white beans, stale bread, and vegetables. Go during Sunday lunch and don’t be afraid to slurp the broth from your tortellini in brodo amongst all the Oltrarno locals catching up after a long week. Reservations (by phone) are a must.

Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino

Here’s a quick cow stomach lesson for you: Don’t confuse lampredotto, the cow’s fourth stomach and Florence’s famous street food, for tripe. Lampredotto, which resembles roast beef visually and is less chewy than tripe, is typically cooked in an aromatic broth, then chopped up and stuffed in a panino. It's often topped with herb and chili sauce and sold at kiosks around the city. Magazzino is the only osteria in Florence that does this kind of street food in a more formal restaurant, along with some interesting fusiony dishes. Come for dinner to try ravioli packed with seasoned lampredotto and topped with a sweet onion sauce, and bites like tempura fried lampredotto sushi. The restaurant feels like most traditional Tuscan restaurants with rustic furnishings, vintage photos lining the walls, and neighborhood-specific coat of arm-like flags.

Club Culinario Toscano Da Osvaldo

Santa Croce

Club Culinario is the top option near Santa Croce, perfect for either lunch or dinner. They really excel at homey Tuscan food and warm and welcoming service, and it’s not impossible to land a table last minute. This is a special place for hard-to-find salami and delicious cheeses alongside nearly forgotten dishes, like Tuscany’s mountainous chestnut flour pancake pasta with pesto and Etruscan-style wild game meats like tender squab roasted with aromatics. Don’t miss the desserts, either—they do a great classic tiramisu and have hyper-regional sweets like Sardinian saeda pastry pockets dripping with local honey.

Antico Ristoro Di Cambi

This trattoria has been serving comfort food from the Tuscan culinary vault to tourists and locals in the Oltrarno since 1950. And it’s a total crowd-pleaser thanks to its varied menu full of must-try classics like pappardelle with game meat ragu and tender rare Florentine steaks, along with an amazing plate of braised artichokes doused in meat sauce and baked onions swimming in a salty parmigiano fondue. The dining room is huge, which makes it great for big groups—especially when finding accommodation for something like a wedding party or work dinner can be a mission in Florence. There’s exposed brick and wood beams with straw-lined fiasco bottles to match the rest of its kitschy Tuscan furnishings, so it’s the perfect Florentine time capsule to think about when you’re back home.

photo credit: Locale

Experimental

Centro Storico

With themed menus, frescos in a former noble family palace, and a bar with an open-air vertical garden, Locale is one of the more fun fine dining spots in all of Italy, not just Florence. Start with the city’s most unique Negroni remixed with vermouth kombucha and floral bitters poured over hand-carved ice blocks. Be sure to get an order of grilled radicchio, chestnut honey, and giardiniera panini from their bar food menu before moving onto the mains. Everything coming out of the kitchen here is going to be excellent, but nothing feels overly serious. We’ve tried dishes like creamy squid ink risotto, wild mushroom tarts with juniper sorbet, and vegetarian porchetta with beets, rainbow chard, and green apple. You’ll definitely need a reservation, but for a fun experimental dinner, this one is worth the effort.

Trattoria Sostanza

Santa Maria Novella

Sostanza has a menu that hasn’t changed since it opened in 1869, and it’s one of those places that everyone knows, maybe a little too well. But the experience is so Florentine, serving up dishes you can’t find anywhere else, that you kind of have to try it at least once. Specifically for the chicken that's seared in a butter bath over hot coals and served in the steel pan it was cooked in. Plus, they do the staples well, like a Florentine steak served with sage and tomato stewed beans and meringue cake layered with cream, dark chocolate chips, and a scattering of tiny wild strawberries. The tiny space is filled with vintage portraits decorating the walls and marble-topped dining benches, and it’s run seamlessly with proud career waiters squeezing by elbow-to-elbow diners with sizzling pots of butter chicken. They’re only open on weekdays, so book this for lunch, ideally during the shoulder season for a less chaotic meal.

photo credit: Aimee Rizzo

Trattoria Cammillo

Anyone who's been to Florence has likely been to Cammillo (open since 1945), and they probably still remember deep diving into their signature tagliatelle with cream, prosciutto, and peas, or having a long leisurely bistecca lunch. Now, it skews touristy and it’s a bit harder to get into (book at least two weeks in advance), but the charm and quality are still there. The bow-tied servers are as much part of the restaurant’s history and identity as the food itself, and they’ll never pass up an opportunity to tease you if you order a cappuccino after lunch. Focus your attention on the daily specials and don’t miss anything fried, especially the zucchini flowers and porcini mushrooms. It’s pricier than other old-school Tuscan restaurants, but it’s a Florence institution with a superb bistecca steak—rich, tender, buttery—and an amazing tiramisu.

Cibrèo Caffè

Sant’Ambrogio

This see-and-be-seen cafe in Sant’Ambrogio is straight out of a Wes Anderson movie, complete with an aloof staff and red velvet interiors. It’s an all-day establishment, but the action always seems to happen in the morning, which is when you should visit. Join the locals who stop by for creamy cappuccinos and custard-stuffed budino before heading to the nearby market to shop. Lunch on the terrace is also a good option, where you can watch the neighborhood action before digging into some turmeric-infused yogurt pudding dip or a creamy plate of cacio and butter pasta.

Gucci Osteria Da Massimo Bottura

Yes, this restaurant is owned by Gucci and Italy’s most famous chef, Massimo Bottura. And it’s a top tasting menu spot where you'll encounter Chinoiserie porcelain and creative dishes like spaghetti inspired by Sicily’s cannoli with a dreamy pistachio pesto. The food is really all over the place, though, thanks to their current chefs from Mexico City and Tokyo, and they often host dinners with restaurants from around the world. In addition to twists on Italian classics and rotating seasonally-themed menus, expect things like Mexican ceviche tostadas and Japanese pork belly buns filled with Cinta Senese pigs from Siena that have similar levels of fame to the Pope. Even though this is a fine dining spot, it’s not stuffy, but rather cheerful and bright with modern chic plush seating, eye-catching Art Nouveau accents, and green tones everywhere. This is Gucci, after all.

Osteria Dell'Enoteca

Florence suffers from over-tourism, so we can’t really deny (or blame) the fact that restaurants have notoriously grumpy restaurant service. But Osteria dell’Enoteca couldn’t be more different. They serve one of the best steaks in town, all while the staff smiles and cracks jokes when explaining where they source their charcuterie and how proud they are of the wine they carry. Even those who are skeptical of anything liver-related will fight over the buttery terrine with a Vinsanto reduction, and the ravioli with peposo is rich but balanced with hints of thyme. The star of the show is that thick-cut Florentine T-bone steak that’s a couple of fingers high and cooked over an open grill for a few minutes on each side. All they add is a little salt and the result is a juicy slab best washed down with an aged Chianti Classico to cut squarely through the fat. The Osteria is also located near the Boboli Gardens, which makes for a perfect after-dinner stroll.

Enoteca Spontanea

This family-run natural wine bar and bistro isn’t where you come to solely drink fruity gamays or other carbonic macerated pours. It’s a part of Florence’s new wave of modern wine bistros that serve Tuscan food with a sprinkling of French. Think whipped baccala spread on toasted brioche, fresh pastas rolled out in-house and tossed with juniper-accented hare ragu, wine-braised beef cheek, and sourdough instead of the usual saltless Tuscan bread served around town. Spontanea’s warmly lit dining room with eccentric ’70s retro details has a handful of tables typically full of locals laughing, chatting, and knocking back glasses, and it’s generally pretty cheery in here. It works for either a full meal or an apertivo hour—whenever you come by, say hi to Nicola (the owner and somm) and always trust his wine recommendations.

Ristorante Nugolo

Nugolo in Sant'Ambrogio is like a farmer’s market inside a greenhouse—the space overflows with plant life, sparkly lights, and glass jars of homemade tomato sauce and chutneys. The menu ventures off from the Tuscan norm, with dishes like their bouquet-inspired celery root carpaccio over a bed of perfectly spiced red onion creme and served with pomegranate and crunchy hazelnuts. Don’t miss their satisfying menu staple, the chitarra Nugolo pasta starter made with a fragrant and silky tomato pomorola sauce sourced from the owner’s garden and sprinkled with salty ricotta. And the decadent tarte tatin paired with sour cream will have you breaking any promise you’ve ever made to skip dessert. Another bonus is a well-curated wine list made up of hard-to-find small Italian producers.

Giotto Pizzeria

There’s plenty of pizza in town, but Giotto is a standout for the attention to detail in every single pie. They’re very particular about the dough—they use stone-ground wheat germ flour that’s left to rise for 36 hours, resulting in an airy Napolitano-style puffy yet light crust that’s the perfect canvas for the quality toppings. Try and snag a table near the open kitchen where you can get a close-up view of the pizzaiolos sliding each pie into the wood-burning oven. Start with a few crunchy fried appetizers, like the mini pasta frittata and arancini, and then prioritize the Naples to Florence pie—it’s all about the tart combination of the tomato sauce, 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, salty capers, and anchovies, which all get drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. To finish, bite into the aptly named “homage to margherita” which features a madeleine base with buffalo mozzarella cream, tomato jam, basil, and a caramelized cream puff cornice.

You’re in Italy, so of course you need somewhere for pre-dinner drinks and snacks. This former wine cellar turned wine bar in Oltrarno is your spot. The space inside might be limited, but it never feels too overcrowded, and it's about as fun and sceney as Florence gets—couples nudge their way to first base in the corner, and locals spill out of the cave-like dining room into the street, glasses in hand, when there’s no more room. They have interesting wines by the glass from under-the-radar producers, so skip a bottle and try a few different varieties. We love their capocollo and pecorino cheese from Pienza that hits just right with a spicy mostarda. The hearty crostini are also a must, especially the hot cheese and spicy sausage combination that’ll have you ordering that extra last glass.

San Lorenzo

Sure, there are Italy-shaped limoncello bottles and statue of David pasta souvenirs at the Mercato Centrale, Florence’s central market. Avoid all that, the student crowds, and tour groups and head to Da Nerbone for lunch. The casual stand opened in 1873 and is one of the last remnants of old Florence in the market serving street food classics like lampredotto, the city’s famed stomach sandwich, stewed bollito panini, and bowls of ribollita soup. It’s one of the few places where you’ll see local blue-collar workers and tourists together, and it’s worth waiting for any of those dishes in the constant line. They also do pretty good plates of roast turkey and wild boar pappardelle pasta if you don't want to put some stomach in your stomach.

Ara' È Sicilia

Ara’ e’ Sicilia is a fast-casual Sicilian place in Sant’Ambrogio with a small patio on the street that’s good for lunch. You’re coming specifically for the plump arancini stuffed with meaty ragu and melted cheese, plus a cannoli or an icy lemon granita to top things off. You can use it as a spot to refuel after a tour of Florence’s Synagogue or the Santa Croce cathedral since it’s near both, but we like it best to grab some snacks for a picnic at the park just down the street or along the Arno.

photo credit: Aslin Castaneda

Libreria Brac

When it comes to restaurants in Florence, nobody is doing the kind of quality vegan and vegetarian dishes that you'll find at Libreria Brac, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it spot on a small street close to the Arno River. Not to mention also operating as a space that has books, good coffee, and interesting wine. The menu changes frequently, but you’ll always find seasonal pastas, variations on lasagna, salads, and vegan options that pack a punch—their homemade seitan is an explosion of cumin, cloves, coriander, and kombu seaweed. Potato-stuffed tortellini are a Tuscan staple, but Brac makes it their own by adding ginger, spicy tomato sauce, arugula pesto, and plenty of herbs. Snag a spot on the courtyard that makes you feel like you’re on an acid trip or simply miles away from the Ponte Vecchio crowds.

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Florence Is Italy's Cultural Capital — Here's Where to Eat, Stay, and Visit, According to an Expert

This local's guide to compact, walkable Florence, Italy, shares the best restaurants, shops, and museums to visit on your trip.

Laura Itzkowitz is a freelance writer and editor based in Rome. She has been contributing to Travel + Leisure since 2014, when she started as a fact checker before becoming a contributing digital editor in 2015 and going freelance in 2016. She has also held positions as a contributing editor at The Points Guy and the NYC cities editor at DuJour Magazine. In addition to Travel + Leisure , her writing has appeared in Architectural Digest , Surface Magazine , Brooklyn Magazine , T Magazine , The Wall Street Journal , Vogue, GQ, Departures, Afar, Fodor's, Town & Country , Condé Nast Traveler , Robb Report , Hemispheres, and others. When she's not jetsetting around Italy and beyond, she can be found in Rome, enjoying some cacio e pepe or relaxing at home with her husband and two dogs. Originally from the Boston area, Laura moved to New York City in 2011 to pursue a master's degree in creative writing and translation at Columbia University. She also holds a bachelor's degree in French from Smith College. * 10+ years of experience writing and editing * Co-wrote "New York: Hidden Bars & Restaurants," an award-winning guide to New York City's speakeasy scene published by Jonglez Editions in 2015 * Contributed to "Fodor's Brooklyn," published by Penguin Random House in 2015, which won silver in the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism competition * Contributed an essay to "Epic Hikes of Europe," published by Lonely Planet in 2021 * Updated the 2022 edition of "Fodor's Essential Italy"

Best Hotels and Resorts

Best things to do, best shopping, best nightlife, best restaurants, best time to visit, how to get there, neighborhoods to visit, how to get around.

Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure

Capital of Tuscany, cradle of the Renaissance, and one of Italy’s most popular destinations, Florence needs little introduction. A World’s Best Awards Hall of Fame honoree , it consistently ranks as one of Travel + Leisure readers’ favorite cities thanks to its rich history, artistic treasures, and delicious food and wine, much of which comes from the nearby hills of Chianti and Montalcino. Florence is a must-visit destination for a rich cultural immersion in Italian art and history.

Though the historic center is relatively compact, it’s crammed with museums containing priceless works of art, churches that are architectural masterpieces, restaurants, bars, and shops selling everything from gastronomic specialties to handmade leather goods and jewelry. In fact, Florence has always been a haven for artisans practicing traditional crafts, and today, you can still find artisan-made goods if you know where to look. 

It would take years to see and do everything Florence has to offer, which is why we’ve enlisted the help of local expert Mary Gray , the editor-in-chief of Italy magazine who has lived in Florence for more than a decade. “The things that drew me here were the same things that draw all visitors and students here, but what’s kept me here has evolved over the years,” she says. “The city is gloriously walkable and compact while having many of the cultural offerings of a much larger and more metropolitan place.”

Top 5 Can’t Miss

• The Helvetia & Bristol Firenze is the city’s oldest luxury hotel, and after a top-to-bottom renovation, it’s more glamorous than ever.
• The Uffizi Gallery contains some of the greatest works of art ever created.
• La Scuola del Cuoio carries on Florence’s historic leather-making tradition and is the perfect place to buy a high-quality artisan bag.
• A sunset aperitivo at La Terrazza at the Hotel Continentale is the perfect segue into a lovely evening in Florence.
• When in Florence, you must try the bistecca alla Fiorentina; the best place to get it is Regina Bistecca.

The St. Regis Florence

Voted the number one hotel in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards , this opulent grand dame has pride of place along the Arno River. Contemporary art curated by Liquid Art System adds a touch of modernity to the otherwise classic decor. Don’t miss an aperitivo in the Winter Garden.  

Helvetia & Bristol Firenze

With a score of 94.75, Florence’s oldest luxury hotel closely follows the St. Regis in the 2023 World’s Best Awards. A major renovation in 2019 restored this member of the Leading Hotels of the World to its original glory, adding a soothing spa and outpost of Cibrèo restaurant and café. “I love to go to the spa at the Helvetia & Bristol when I’m in the mood to give myself the ‘staycation’ treatment,” Gray says.

Hotel Savoy, a Rocco Forte Hotel

The Rocco Forte Hotels group is known for impeccable design and service, and the Hotel Savoy certainly fulfills those promises, earning it a spot as the third-best hotel in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards. Standout details include colorful textiles by Laudomia Pucci, menus designed by lauded chef Fulvio Pierangelini, and views of the Duomo.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

Courtesy of Four Seasons

More like an urban resort than a city hotel, the Four Seasons Firenze occupies the historic Palazzo della Gherardesca and is home to Florence's most extensive private garden. Original frescoes and period furnishings immerse guests in Renaissance splendor, and a meal at the Michelin-starred Il Palagio is a feast for the senses. No wonder this hotel ranked the fourth best in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards.

Owned by the noble Ginori family, who once used the building as the headquarters of their world-famous ceramics production, Casa G. is a 15-room boutique hotel. A more affordable alternative to the city’s luxury five-star hotels, it offers style at prices that won’t break the bank. 

Admire incredible art at the Uffizi Gallery.

Florence is packed full of museums, but if you only go to one, make it the Uffizi Galleries , which contains a collection from the 13th to the 20th century. Must-see paintings include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus , Raphael’s Madonna of the Goldfinch , and Caravaggio’s Bacchus . 

Learn about Brunelleschi’s masterpiece at the Opera del Duomo Museum.

The Duomo is Florence's most recognizable landmark with its symbolic red terracotta tiled roof and Gothic facade. However, many of the great artworks created for it now reside in the nearby Opera del Duomo Museum . “This is definitely one of the most spectacular museums in the city and maybe in all of Italy,” Gray says. “I always tell visitors that if they’re deciding between going inside the cathedral or going inside the museum, there’s no contest.”

Visit the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

With a history that stretches back to 1221, this is considered the world’s oldest pharmacy , where Dominican friars produced medicinal tinctures and perfumes. It was the official perfumer of Catherine de’ Medici and officially opened its doors to the public in 1542. The brand now sells its perfumes worldwide, but the original shop was turned into a sort of museum worth a visit.

Stroll through the Boboli and Bardini Gardens.

Christopher Larson/Travel + Leisure

Behind Palazzo Pitti, the Medicis’ royal palace, the Boboli Gardens are the archetype of the classic Renaissance Italian gardens, with fountains, grottoes, and statues. The same ticket will grant you access to the Gardens of the Villa Bardini, which has incredible views of Florence and, in the spring, wisteria-covered pergolas.

Explore Markets like the Mercato Centrale and the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio.

Though the stalls outside the Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo mainly sell fake leather goods and cheap souvenirs, the actual market is worth visiting. On the ground floor, vendors sell produce, meat, cheeses, fish, and other groceries, while the upper floor has been turned into an upscale food hall. The Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is a “great convergence point in the city for visitors and residents,” according to Gray. There’s also a flea market nearby in Largo Annigoni.

 Chris Ratcliffe/Bloomberg via Getty Images

La Scuola del Cuoio

Established post-World War II as a way to help orphans learn a trade, the Scuola del Cuoio still teaches students the art of leather-making. You can tour the school, learn about the process, and then buy original bags, wallets, belts, and other leather items.

Scarpelli Mosaici

Scarpelli Mosaici is one of the few remaining workshops that still makes mosaics and inlaid marble items the traditional way. Head to the shop near the Duomo to watch the artisans at work and buy a unique piece. They also work on commissions to make inlaid marble tables and other beautiful objects.

Marina Calamai

“ I’ve always been super inspired by Marina Calamai , who I think of as a true contemporary Renaissance woman,” Gray says about this jeweler and artist. “Her hands are in a ton of different artistic initiatives and green projects around Florence and the greater metropolitan area, but window-shopping her jewelry and art studio on Via Santo Spirito is a regular part of my daily route; I always love seeing what she’s come up with.”

Alberto Cozzi Rilegatore

Gray recommends this family-run shop opened in 1908, specializing in bookbinding, paper marbling, and the restoration of antique books. Stop by one of their shops — located on Via del Parione and Via Sant’Agostino — to pick up some stationary, a leather-bound journal, or have a book repaired.

Pegna dal 1860

“ Pegna is where I go in a pinch when I need to pick up travel-friendly non-perishables to take back to the ‘foodies’ among my stateside family and friends,” Gray notes. “Though it’s a historic local grocery, I do love that there is a range of products sourced from all over Italy, like capers from Pantelleria and Krumiri Rossi from Piedmont.”

Peter Adams/Getty Images

La Terrazza at the Hotel Continentale

It should come as no surprise that one of the best rooftop bars in Florence is run by the Ferragamo family. Book in advance if you want a spot at this small al fresco bar overlooking the Arno River. It’s incredibly atmospheric for a sunset aperitivo. 

Companion Dolceamaro Bar at 25Hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino

Gray likes the 25Hours Hotel for its variety of nightlife options, which includes the lobby lounge, the courtyard, and the intimate Companion Dolceamaro Bar . It has a wide selection of bitters, vermouths, and cocktails, but the most popular option is the Negroni, which has several versions. 

Vineria Sonora

“In Florence in recent years, it’s felt like a lot of venues have tamped down their personalities or strayed from their niches to appeal to more people or just to become more Instagrammable,” Gay says. “I love that Vineria Sonora stubbornly embraces doing its own thing, focusing on fun music and offbeat wines from small, independent producers. It’s perfect for pre-dinner or nightcap, and I love that it draws such a mix of demographics and ages.”

Chelsea Loren/Travel + Leisure

Alla Vecchia Bettola

“There’s definitely more to Florentine dining than steak, but when I’m craving one now and then, this is where I go,” Gray says about this no-frills trattoria with tables crammed together and stools instead of chairs. “I love sitting elbow-to-elbow and swilling back the house wine, but this admittedly isn’t the best place to go if you need to have a deep conversation over dinner —  you’re lucky if you can hear your seatmate over the ruckus!”

Regina Bistecca

For bistecca alla fiorentina and other Tuscan classics, including pillowy ricotta and spinach gnudi, in a more refined but still laid-back atmosphere, head to this lovely restaurant near the Duomo. The building used to be an antiquarian bookshop with soaring arches and the owners have kept the charming vintage vibes.

Borgo San Jacopo

For an unforgettable fine dining experience, book a table at this Michelin-starred restaurant inside the Lungarno Hotel, which is part of the Ferragamo family’s empire. The nautical-inspired interiors might make you feel like you’re on a yacht floating on the Arno as you savor one of Chef Claudio Mengoni’s exquisite tasting menus.

Trattoria Cammillo

“When one of my best friends who traded in Florence for London a few years ago comes back to town for visits we always love to make a splashy Saturday of it and have a special-occasion lunch at Cammillo . It’s a step up in price point from your average shabby-chic trattoria, but still has a soulful, neighborhood feel, which I love,” Gray says.

The Cibrèo family of restaurants encompasses five locations in Florence. There’s the restaurant, the trattoria, the café, the Tuscan-Oriental fusion spot, and a new outpost inside the Helvetia & Bristol Hotel. When Gray used to teach travel writing to university students, she sometimes brought them to Cibrèo Caffè. “This is still one of my favorite ways to spend a special morning out in Florence,” she maintains.

Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure

The best time to visit Florence for fewer crowds is November through March. Summer is hot and crowded. Gray says, “A real ‘low season’ in Florence isn’t much of a thing anymore.” She loves January and February but posits that March is an excellent middle ground because the weather is good, the local event scene tends to pick up after a winter hiatus, and the crowds usually swell around Easter. If you've been dreaming about booking a sought-after room at one of the city's luxurious hotels , this is perhaps the best time to do it.

Easter is a significant celebration throughout Italy, and in Florence, the festivities include the Scoppio del Carro, in which a wooden cart pulled by flower-adorned oxen explodes directly in front of the Duomo. Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is one of Italy’s oldest music festivals. It typically starts mid-April and runs through mid-June, with classical music concerts, operas, and other performances. The city also celebrates its patron saint, St. John the Baptist, on June 24 with a game of Calcio Storico, a mix of rugby, soccer, and wrestling, with participants wearing 16th-century costumes. 

Florence is served by the Amerigo Vespucci Airport, which is about half an hour from the city center. It’s also easy to get to Florence by train from elsewhere in Italy. High-speed Frecciarossa trains run frequently from major cities like Rome, Milan, Bologna, and Venice. The Frecciarossa takes about 90 minutes from Rome, two hours from Milan, 40 minutes from Bologna, and a little more than two hours from Venice. The central train station is Firenze Santa Maria Novella.

Duomo: Also known as San Giovanni, the part of the centro storico that covers the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria is the very heart of the city. This area is packed with sites, including the Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Repubblica, and the banks of the Arno.

Evgeniya Vlasova /Travel + Leisure

Santa Croce: Just east of the Duomo, Santa Croce is known for the Basilica di Santa Croce, which contains incredible frescoes by Giotto and the tombs of Michelangelo and Galileo. The neighborhood is home to the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, which, according to Gray, is a hidden gem.  

Santa Maria Novella: Santa Maria Novella is the neighborhood where you’ll find the train station and basilica of the same name. The western part of the neighborhood beyond the train station is primarily residential, but the area around the basilica is home to some upscale hotels, restaurants, and bars.

San Lorenzo: The small area between the train station and the Duomo is San Lorenzo, the city’s central market district. Beware of the stalls selling fake leather or souvenirs made in China. On the other hand, you’ll find vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat on the ground floor. The upper floor houses a food hall selling local specialties like lampredotto (tripe sandwiches) and schiacciata (a Tuscan flatbread).

Oltrarno: Literally ‘across the Arno,’ Oltrarno is a more laid-back, slightly bohemian area. Gray, who has lived in Oltrarno for the entirety of her time in Florence, says, “I’ve watched it change a lot over the past decade-plus; artisan studios and workers’ neighborhood trattorie are being replaced by generic Aperol Spritz spots and run-of-the-mill shops, but if you know where to look (and hint: it’s not where the long lines are), you’ll find Florentine traditions and long-standing independent shops quietly humming on.”

The historic center of Florence is compact and very walkable. Much of it has been pedestrianized or is part of a limited traffic zone. A car is a hindrance rather than a help, but taxis, buses, and trams are available to transport you to or from the airport or train station. 

Autolinee Toscane: Autolinee Toscane runs the buses and trams that connect Florence with the greater metropolitan area. Tickets cost 1.70 euros if you buy them in advance at ticket offices or ticket machines or 3 euros if you buy them on board.

Taxi: There are two taxi companies in Florence: Taxi4242 and Taxi4390 . A trip to or from the airport costs a flat rate of 22 euros (plus possible surcharges for luggage), but usually, fares are calculated based on the time and distance traveled. Use the itTaxi app to hail a taxi.

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Where to eat in Provence

Pascal Arvicus and I are standing in his patch of saffron crocuses, a splash of lilac amid the green oaks and vines, hidden well out of sight of the road to Entrechaux. I can hear birdsong, running water and the buzzing of unfeasibly fat bees. I smell honey. I am back in the Vaucluse.

Arvicus used to work in the vineyards of Gigondas, but an injury to his hand lost him his job. Disillusioned with the wine world, he turned to flowers. 'Where there are vines and olives, saffron will grow,' he says, stroking one of the blooms. 'So how many kilos do you produce each year?' 'Kilos? We made 600 grammes last year,' he says with a laugh. There are easier ways to make a living. It takes several hundred flowers to make a pinch of saffron.

Persuading chefs to part with £25 for a single gram of anything is always going to be a struggle, not least because adulterated saffron abounds (the real stuff leaves a yellow stain - not red - on your fingers, says Arvicus). 'And the more Michelin stars they have, the more difficult it is,' he grumbles. There are some exceptions: 'Laurent Deconinck at L'Oustalet doesn't discuss price. He just wants the best.' I make a note of the name.

We think of Provence as an abundant larder, with its orange-fleshed Cavaillon melons, coal-black olives from Nyons, the courgettes, the apricots, the cherries, but the truth is it's remarkably difficult to eat well in the area I think of as 'my Provence'. This is the western part of the Vaucluse, the former papal territory for 500 years known as the Comtat Venaissin or simply 'the Comtat'.

'It is a wasteland for restaurants,' admits Walter Wells, formerly of the International Herald Tribune and a part-time resident of Vaison-la-Romaine, in the north of the region. He has three decades' experience of the area - twice mine - but I am determined to snuffle out the best that this 'forgotten' part of Provence has to offer the serious eater and prove him wrong.

Vaucluse means 'closed valley', and you get a sense that life is still lived here in the shadow of that Tour de France icon, Mont Ventoux (which stands at 1,909 metres), as it has been for centuries. Horses still plough between the vines (kinder to ancient roots, you see), goats are still herded in the hills and, as the sun sinks and wood smoke spirals from stone chimneys, it means that the daube - the classic Provençal stew with its fall-apart beef and tang of citrus - is gently simmering over the embers.

My wife and I set off over the next few days, ricocheting from the olive mills of Vaison to the chocolatiers of Avignon, the confiseries of Carpentras to the winemakers of Gigondas - and everywhere else in between - following a relay of recommendations, like greedy truffle pigs chasing an irresistible scent.

'Actually, truffle-hunters don't really use pigs. They always try to eat the truffles,' says Florence Plisson, marketing director for Plantin, probably the world's largest truffle wholesaler. Based on the outskirts of the village of Puyméras, north of Vaison, Plantin is a truffle-lover's heaven, handling around 16 tonnes of the elusive fungus every year. This was a tip-off from Wells, as it happens: Plantin, which was founded in 1930, supplies his wife Patricia's annual truffle workshop, as well as the holy trinity of France's greatest chefs: Ducasse, Robuchon and Savoy.

In Plantin's reception area I am assailed by a pungent scent: is that mushrooms, nuts or stable floor? 'I don't smell it any more,' Plisson says. The aromas are even more overwhelming in the processing room, where workers are busy weighing, filling jars with off-cuts and, rather unexpectedly, X-raying. 'It's mainly for the mushrooms,' Florence explains. 'Sellers sometimes try to increase the weight by filling the morels with stones or metal.' Truffle farmers are not averse to similar tricks, of course. 'Sometimes they try to tape two together to make one big one,' Plantin's chief buyer, Eric Hinterlang, tells me. During the season, from November to March, it is Hinterlang who visits the local truffle markets in Richerenches (Saturdays) and Carpentras (Fridays) and receives the steady procession of weather-worn men with string for belts who turn up bearing sacks of the stinky black tubers. The current price for winter truffles is about £1,050 per kilo, says Plisson.

'The Vaucluse is the best place in the world for truffles. Prices are highest before Christmas, but actually they are ripest in January and early February,' says Laurent Deconinck, chef of L'Oustalet, a one-room restaurant in the hillside wine village of Gigondas that is recommended by many as the best in the region. With its bare wood tables and minimalist floral displays, it wouldn't look out of place on the Left Bank, and has fed visitors to this bustling little wine mecca for half a century. Three years ago it was taken over by Francois and Jean-Pierre Perrin. The brothers are major names in the French wine trade as owners of Château de Beaucastel and numerous other domaines, not to mention as managers of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie's vineyard, Château Miraval, north of Aix. They had fresh ambitions for the restaurant.

'The idea is that we develop dishes from the wines, instead of the other way round,' Deconinck tells me after a perfectly executed lunch of langoustines, pink veal and wild mushrooms. 'The Ventoux lamb, for example, is classic, but we have added pine nuts to give that fatness that helps develop the flavours of the wine on your palate. Or beef with fresh juniper - that goes well with a grenache.' He serves local truffles with cod: 'We salt the fish for a few hours, then flake it with truffle. There's a wonderful earthiness to the dish.'

Behind L'Oustalet's kitchen is an excellent cave , or wine shop, overseen by sommelier Gabriel Danis, whose CV includes the Orrery in London. He shows us the compact, swish accommodation recently built above the shop, incorporating a three-storey wall of wine. 'Gigondas is getting better and better,' enthuses Danis. 'There's a new generation of winemakers here now. It is easier to be organic or biodynamic because the Mistral wind dries out the fungus and it is quite common to have very ancient old vines.' Swathes of France's vineyards were eradicated by the phylloxera outbreak of the mid-19th century, but in Gigondas some vines that were not grafted on to American rootstock to combat the plague survived. 'You can really taste the difference with pre-phylloxera wines. They have an incredible freshness. The minerality is very high because the roots take up their richness from deeper in the soil.'

The base for our tour of the Rhône wine villages - Rasteau, Sablet, Séguret, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise - on this western side of the region is La Mirande hotel in Avignon, where, according to owner Martin Stein, more than 3,500 people queued to get into our bedroom. This happened last year, I hasten to add, when conceptual artist Sophie Calle took up residence as part of the Avignon theatre festival, held every July. The walls of room 20 were hung with her work, and she invited visitors to sit beside her on the bed 'and whisper me your story'.

'The festival is a real carnival. Everyone gets involved,' Stein tells me. 'I like the mix between this Gothic city of the popes, the culture, and the roughness of the place today.' It's true, Avignon has an edge to it, but his hotel is one of the most captivating in France, with its Roman foundations, lavish, 18th-century-style decor and treasures hidden in plain sight, such as the Impressionist paintings which hang here and there. Squished against the mighty walls of Le Palais des Papes, the 14th-century building has been home to a rogues gallery of cardinals and mayors over the centuries, until reopening as a hotel-restaurant in 1990 following a two-year restoration. There is also a well-preserved 19th-century kitchen in the basement, the venue for cooking courses and intimate dinners.

We dine in the ground-floor restaurant, serviced by the kitchen of chef Jean-Claude Aubertin - my kind of French chef. 'No one knows how to turn vegetables any more,' he sighs, when I compliment him on the perfect, rugby-ball-shaped potatoes. 'I have to teach them when they arrive in my kitchen.'Of Avignon's many charms, some are sublime (the Musée Angladon, with its exquisite collection of Impressionists), and some are ridiculous (Un Peu d'Ô, a shop dedicated to fancy loo paper and bathroom accessories). But I regret to say that its restaurants are resting on their laurels: the food at one supposed highlight, L'Isle Sonnante, is almost aggressively lacklustre, while the service at La Fourchette, a Michelin-starred stalwart, is comically bad (50 minutes after being seated, our order still hadn't been taken).

More happily, the city has one of the best young chocolate-makers in France. 'My chocolates are very simple, like me,' Aline Géhant tells me when we chance upon her shop one afternoon. I know from experience that creating glossy ganaches like hers is anything but simple, as is pairing wine with chocolate, another of her specialities: Rasteau wines are a particularly good match for her signature lavender and thyme ganaches, she says.

From Avignon we motor north to the hilltop monastery, Abbaye Sainte-Madeleine, in Le Barroux. While browsing the monastery shop's excellent collection of foods produced by different orders around France - Augustinian jams, Benedictine honey, Trappist beer - we fall into conversation with one of the 51 monks who live here, Jean de Dieu, who tells us that they also make breads, cakes, olive oils and an excellent wine.

We continue our journey onwards to visit a winemaker intent on rescuing the reputation of the much-maligned Ventoux appellation, dominated by large cooperatives selling bottles for as little as a couple of euros. 'The dodgy reputation is changing,' Corinna Faravel assures us, as she pours generous glasses of her elegant 2011 vintage. 'There is still so much prejudice against Ventoux wines, people don't realise there are great terroirs here. The soil is very ancient in Le Barroux.'

Faravel, originally from Düsseldorf, took over the Martinelle vineyard in 2002. 'A lot of people came to see the young, female German winemaker. I think they imagined I'd employ someone else to do the work, and watch from a sunbed,' she says. Her first two years were wipeouts due to terrible weather, but now even her husband, a Gigondas winemaker, appears to approve of her wine: 'He's never told me frankly what he thinks of it, but I judge by how much is left in the bottle.'

We return that evening to Vaison on a tip from chef Deconinck: the Bistro du'O, recently taken over by a young couple, Philippe Zemour and Gaëlle Renard. I ring Walter Wells, triumphant, to invite him, but of course he is already a regular. We dine in a room with a vaulted ceiling, once the bishop's stables, on pigeon and an excellent spelt risotto (spelt has been grown in the region for thousands of years).

There is something about the Vaucluse: fall for its charms, and you tend to fall for good. The place does seem to inspire a kind of dogged commitment. Faravel bought a vineyard here, as did Walter and Patricia Wells. Isabelle and Philippe Lichtenthurn, and their dog Ulysses, moved here from Switzerland and renovated a four-storey, 17th-century townhouse in the quiet village of Méthamis, 30 miles east of Avignon, turning it into a contemporary maison d'hôtes called Metafort.

'We were looking for a place with lots of air and space,' Philippe, previously an executive at watchmaker Omega for 25 years, explains as we look out at Mont Ventoux from the attic room's terrace. 'It took us two years to restore. We wanted to use original materials as much as possible, but to contrast that with contemporary furniture.' As a result, with its bare stone walls and mid-20th-century Scandinavian furniture, Metafort has a fresh, uncluttered feel.

That night, we open the sliding glass doors to the rooftop patio, slowly push the bed along its rails outside, and sleep beneath the stars in the shadow of the blue mountain.

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WHERE TO STAY

La Mirande A 14th-century mansion with 26 rooms. Avignon (+33 4 90 14 20 20; www.la-mirande.fr ). Doubles from about £365

Le Château de Mazan , a former home of the Marquis de Sade, is now an appropriately theatrical private hotel with restaurant (the infamous marquis held France's first theatre festival in the dining rooms). Mazan (+33 4 90 69 62 61; www.chateaudemazan.com ). Doubles from about £95

Metafort A contemporary, Scandi-chic maison d'hôtes east of Avignon. Méthamis (+33 4 90 34 46 84; www.metafort-provence.com ). Doubles from about £115

WHERE TO EAT

Bistro du'O New restaurant in old bishop's stables. 1 Rue du Château, Vaison-la-Romaine (+33 4 90 41 72 90; www.bistroduo.fr ). About £70 for two

L'Oustalet Fêted one-room dining room. Gigondas (+33 4 90 65 85 30; www.loustalet-gigondas.com ). About £70 for two

Le Pont de l'Orme is an exceptional-value, pretty restaurant run by the Girard family in their home by on the outskirts of a popular jumping-off point for Mont Ventoux cycle tourism. Malaucène (+33 4 90 46 17 50; www.lepontdelorme.com ). About £28 for two

WHERE TO SHOP

Truffe Plantin , Route de Nyons, Puyméras (+33 4 90 464 144; www.truffe-plantin.com )

Pascal Arvicus For saffron. L'Or Rouge des 3 Rivières, Le Jas Nègre, Entrechaux (+33 6 15 81 21 01; www.or3r.fr )

Abbaye Sainte-Madeleine Hilltop monastery shop. Le Barroux (+33 4 90 62 56 31; www.barroux.org )

Martinelle Wines , La Font Valet, Lafare (+33 4 90 65 05 56; www.martinelle.com )

Aline Géhant Chocolatier , 15 Rue des Trois Faucons, Avignon (+33 4 90 02 27 21; www.agchocolatier.e-monsite.com )

Fromagerie du Comtat , run by Claudine Vigier, was recently voted one of the 10 best cheese shops in all France. 23 Place de la Mairie, Carpentras (+33 4 90 60 00 17; www.facebook.com/fromagerieducomtat.vigier )

Silvain Frères Traditional nougaterie. Route de Vénasque, Saint-Didier (+33 4 90 66 09 57; www.nougat-silvain-freres.fr )

Le Vieux Moulin Artisanal extra-virgin olive oil from local groves. Quartier Maupas, Puyméras (+33 4 90 12 02 57; www.vieuxmoulin.qc.ca)

Peyrerol One of the region's finest pâtissiers. 7 Cours Henri Fabre, Vaison-la-Romaine (+33 4 90 36 04 91; www.facebook.com/pages/Peyrerol )

Confiserie Clavel For traditional fruits confit, as well as chocolates, jams and ice creams. Place Aristide Briand, Carpentras (+33 4 90 29 70 39; www.clavel-confiserie.com )

This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller August 2014

A poppy-strewn olive grove near Beaumes-de-Venise

Chef Jean Claude Aubertin

Candied fruits from Confiserie Clavel in Carpentras

Vineyards near Metafort

Selection of cheeses at La Fromagerie du Comtat in Carpentras

The Chinese Cabinet room at La Mirande, with 18th-century handpainted wallpaper

A starter of beef on a sauce of fresh herbs at L'Oustalet

The best brunch restaurants in Beirut

With an abundance of fresh Mediterranean cuisine in countless variations, Lebanon is an unmissable destination for any and all self-professed foodies. Indeed, eating together with friends and family is a – if not the – cornerstone of a healthy social life among the Lebanese. From coffees or cocktails to big breakfasts and long restaurant lunches, any excuse to grab a bite is an opportunity for catching up and indulging a little. It should come as no surprise then that Beirut does brunch well. Here's our guide to where to find the best brunches in Beirut.

Meat the Fish is a welcoming restaurant with a creative menu

Meat the Fish

Meat the Fish – found in Beirut’s Saifi Village neighbourhood – has a fun, welcoming vibe and friendly staff that instantly make you feel welcome in their quirky, intimate venue . Split between farm-fresh egg dishes, sweet or savoury options, everything on its brunch menu goes that little bit further, thanks to a touch of fusion cuisine creativity. Particular treats include their loaded breakfast tacos, bacon and eggs kaake, great sourdough toasts and pancakes. And, for the truly ravenous, there’s the titanic steak hache and fried eggs, boasting a 200g chuck beef patty, served on a bed of hand-cut fries.

Bachig Sur Mer serves both traditional Lebanese and Armenian cuisine

Batchig Sur Mer

In a casual setting, Batchig Sur Mer offers a huge variety of home-style specialties, blending influences from both traditional Lebanese and Armenian cuisine in a delicious smorgasbord of fresh salads, dips, hot and cold mezze and more. There are several variations of Lebanese manakeesh and Armenian khachapuri, scrambled eggs served with basterma (Armenian cured beef), soujouk (spicy Lebanese sausage) or kawarma (Lebanese lamb confit), and an amazing sahlab perdu dessert (a twist on a traditional Middle Eastern milk pudding). Batchig Sur Mer is a great way to enjoy some less well-known – but nonetheless delightfully delicious – dishes. Another plus: it is accompanied by a gorgeous view of Beirut’s bustling Zaitunay Bay.

La Degusteria melds a casual atmosphere with a gourmet menu

La Degusteria

Located in Beirut’s smart Badaro neighbourhood, La Degusteria successfully melds a casual atmosphere and a serious gourmet menu. Styled as a craft coffee bar, this delightful brunch spot has something for everyone. You can keep it light – but still delicious – with options like fresh fruit salad or opt for something a little more indulgent like the truffle croissant burger or charcuterie sandwich, washed down with a delightful Garden Spritz.

Cantina Sociale is self-service wine shop, bar and cafe in one

Cantina Sociale

Cantina Sociale is a self-service wine shop, bar and cafe concept offering a wonderful Saturday brunch experience. Based on the Italian notion of a cantina sociale (a kind of winemaking cooperative where local vineyards come together to share resources and knowledge as a community), guests can choose between al fresco dining on the tree-shaded terrace, or cosy interior seating. The menu emphasises simple but flavourful fare, from healthy yoghurt and granola bowls to grilled halloumi, rich shakshouka, a fantastic spinach mushroom quiche and French toast for dessert – its even pet-friendly.

Amar Seaside sits right on the beach

Amar Seaside

Sitting right on the beach, just off Beirut’s coastal highway, Amar Seaside is a true fine-dining experience that combines traditional Lebanese flavours with an extensive seafood menu in an elegant, Mediterranean-style setting. Dishes of octopus provençale, fattet shrimps (layered with fried bread and aubergine, and coated in a rich, tangy garlic yoghurt sauce), calamari and fresh seasonal bizri (fried whole sardines) make for an incredible alternative brunch to share with friends.

An all-day breakfast restaurant in Beirut's upmarket Ashrafieh district

The Sage Parlour

The Sage Parlour is an all-day breakfast spot in the heart of Beirut’s upmarket Ashrafieh district. Its menu has all the tentpole dishes you might expect, like avocado toast and eggs benedict, all of which are beautifully plated and taste as good as they look. However, there are also plenty of unexpected surprises, such as the lamb merguez labneh tartine and curried eggs – incorporating roasted potatoes and rocket with a creamy, spicy coconut sauce – both of which are must-orders.

Le Trottoir De Paloma is a stylish venue in Gemmayze neighbourhood

Le Trottoir De Paloma

Found on Pasteur Street, part of Beirut’s famous Gemmayze neighbourhood, Le Trottoir De Paloma's stylish interiors are worth a visit alone. Taking the form of a spacious, high-ceilinged conservatory filled with tropical plants, it's a setting ideal for a group looking for a more memorable brunch, washed down with one of the impressive signature cocktails. Dishes range from those designed for sharing like edamame and truffle fries to mini-burgers and fresh salads to the more gourmet beef carpaccio and salmon tartare.

SuperVega is ideal for a health-conscious brunch stop

For the more health-conscious among us who still want to enjoy a tasty weekend brunch, head for SuperVega in Badaro. This cosy restaurant sources as many fresh, organic ingredients as possible – working with local farmers and artisan producers – and makes almost everything on its menu from scratch. Pancakes, hash browns and savoury waffles all offer great, filling flavours for mid-morning, backed up by a fantastic assortment of homemade juices, smoothies and desserts. There’s also a dedicated brunch cocktails list, just in case you want to wash everything down with a Bloody Mary or Aperol Spritz.

The CO's serves an affordable and delicious buffet brunch spread

While it is a seasonal offering, The CO’s Saturday all-you-can-eat brunch buffet in Downtown Beirut is worth its hype. For $20 per person, guests can choose from an incredible spread featuring buttery pastries and croissants, cold-cut sandwiches, pizza, salads and plenty more. There are live cooking stations with fresh pasta, homemade juices and cocktails, and enough crepes and waffles to satisfy even the most demanding sweet tooth. The hardest part is choosing what you want to try first, before you settle in to enjoy some live entertainment.

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The oldest country in the world is this microstate tucked inside Italy

What is the oldest country in the world? Depending on who you ask, you’ll get a variety of responses. Some might say it’s a country like China or Greece, where you can visit ancient cities that date all the way back to the second, third, even fifth millennium BCE. But borders and cultures have always shifted—and will continue to to shift—throughout history, and as a result, most of our present-day nations are actually quite young.

For example: Today’s Russia was born out of the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991; its current constitution is only 20 years old. Modern Iran—officially the Islamic Republic of Iran—is turning just 45 next year; it wasn’t a republic until 1979, after the Iranian Revolution . And sure, Rome itself was founded in 753 BCE , but the Republic of Italy, as we know it today, is only about 60 years old. It was founded in 1946 after a nationwide referendum, in what was once the Kingdom of Italy, replaced the monarchy with a republic . The People's Republic of China was proclaimed in 1949; modern Greece—officially the Third Hellenic Republic—began in 1974, after the abolishment of the monarchy.

Empires rise and fall, but San Marino, a small enclave of a country in the middle of Italy, has withstood the tests of time since the year 301 thanks to its diminutive size and political savvy. Eager to learn more about it? Here’s an introduction to the titleholder of the oldest country in the world: the tiny, “most serene” republic of San Marino.

The oldest country in the world is San Marino

What is San Marino? If you’ve never heard of it, that’s no surprise. San Marino is the third smallest country in the world, with a land area of roughly 24 square miles—bigger than both the Vatican and Monaco (the world’s two smallest countries in terms of area, at under one square mile), but smaller than Liechtenstein and Washington, DC. It is a self-governing country within Central Italy , sandwiched between the Italian regions of Emilia-Romagna and Marche. The country’s western border is just a 20-minute drive away from the coastal Italian town of Rimini, off the Adriatic Sea. You can also take a day trip to San Marino from Bologna, which is just under two hours away by road.

In the middle of San Marino, the imposing Monte Titano towers over the landscape with three medieval towers that crown its three tallest peaks: the Cesta, on the mountain’s highest point; the Montale, on the smallest; and the Guaita, the oldest fortress of the three and perhaps its most famous and well-photographed. On the western slopes of Monte Titano stands the walled City of San Marino, the nation’s capital. The city’s historic center, as well as Monte Titano itself, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

The fortress of Guaita, on Monte Titano in San Marino

What is the history of San Marino?

If you know a bit of Italian, you can guess this country’s etymological origin: San Marino was named after, naturally, Saint Marinus . Originally a stonemason from the island of Rab (found in what is now modern Croatia), he and fellow Christians escaped religious persecution at the hands of the Roman Empire and settled on Monte Titano, where he built a church, out of which grew the community that would become San Marino. The nation’s official founding date is September 3, 301 CE.

Over the years, San Marino held onto sovereignty thanks to its isolation, and well-fortressed mountainous landscape. Political maneuvering also helped to maintain its relative independence : In the Middle Ages, when the Malatesta family, rulers of Rimini, encroached upon the territory of San Marino, its people were protected by the rival Montefeltro family of nearby Urbino. In the 18th century, Napoleon acknowledged San Marino’s independence during his campaign into the Italian peninsula and, in fact, offered to expand its territory. And in the 19th century, San Marino offered asylum to revolutionaries part of and sympathetic to the Italian unification movement , among them Giuseppe Garibaldi ; soon after, the new nation of Italy confirmed San Marino’s independence through a friendship treaty signed in 1862.

San Marino shares similarities with a country like Switzerland in its comparatively small size, mountainous isolation, and habitual political neutrality. Nearly two thousand years of relative stability has led the country to also be called the Most Serene Republic of San Marino. Here’s how to visit; use the menu below to jump to the tips you’re looking for.

How to reach and navigate San Marino

What to speak in san marino, what to see in san marino, what to eat in san marino, where to stay in san marino.

At first glance, San Marino might resemble any other Italian commune on the peninsula: Its main agricultural products are wine and cheese; its national language is Italian; its currency is the euro; visitors can freely cross the Italian-Sammarinese borders without paperwork. That said, its unique history and culture can still be found and experienced when you look more closely.

Though San Marino is part of neither the European Union nor the Eurozone, it uses the euro as its currency. Coins with San Marino’s designs on the national side are highly sought after by collectors; you can find them exchanged locally, especially at souvenir shops. Another thing you can collect when you visit the country: passport stamps. Since landlocked San Marino doesn’t have an airport or a train station (the closest ones are in Rimini), the only ways into the country are land routes from Italy via car or bus. And because Italy has open borders with San Marino, Sammarinese passport stamps have no official use. However, they’re a fun novelty and available for purchase at local tourist offices .

Italy ’s influence is apparent in the language of San Marino, where the official language is Italian. But among the 47,000 citizens of San Marino today, roughly 83% speak Sammarinese, a variety of the Romagnol language historically spoken in the region of Emilia-Romagna. It’s spoken mostly among the local elderly and classified as endangered ; barring active conservation and education, Sammarinese may go extinct after 2040. If you decide to visit San Marino, bring along your best Italian and you will go far: buongiorno for “good morning,” per favore for “please,” and grazie (“gra-tsyeh”) for “thank you.” That said, if you’re keen, an Italian–Sammarinese dictionary was recently published. Pick one up, try and a phrase or two, and make a Sammarinese nonno or nonna smile.

The Palazzo Pubblico at the Piazza della Libertà in the historic center of the City of San Marino

Sightseeing in San Marino can be done in one long day (but of course there’s also merit to staying overnight, if you can). The country’s tourism revolves around the City of San Marino, where you can find most of the restaurants, cafés, hotels, and shops catering to tourists. For an expansive view of the country and the Adriatic Sea, take the cable car that climbs Monte Titano and connects the Sammarinese commune of Borgo Maggiore to the city’s historical center. There, check out the Palazzo Pubblico in the Piazza della Liberta—literally the ‘public palace’ in the ‘place of liberty,’ fittingly named sites in this Most Serene Republic. The views from the piazza are truly awe-inspiring: green hills roll into the horizon and as flags of San Marino fly in the breeze, their two bands of white and light blue representing peace and liberty. The Palazzo too is beautiful, but what's especially cool is watching the ceremonial changing of the guard, the Guardie di Rocca, who wear distinctive green and red uniforms as they patrol the nation’s borders.

From the city center, you can easily visit all three of San Marino’s towers, which are connected by a pedestrian path with panoramic views of the country. The interiors of only Guaida and Cesta are open to the public, but you can still take photographs of Montale's exterior. As for museums , San Marino is in no short supply, befitting a country that has lived for nearly two thousand years: check out the Galleria Nazionale San Marino (exhibiting contemporary art from the 1950s onward), the Museum of Ancient Arms (weapons and armor through the ages), and the Stamp and Coin Museum (self-explanatory).

San Marino’s food scene might seem familiar at first glance because of its deep ties to Italy. In addition to its small wine and cheese industries, San Marino is well represented on the Italian plate—quite literally. Two of its signature desserts, the Torta Tre Monti and the Torta Titano, are hazelnut, chocolate, and cream cakes inspired by their namesakes, the three towers of San Marino and Monte Titano, respectively. That said, much of San Marino’s cooking is strongly influenced by the cuisine of the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna; the Sammarinese piada, a filled flatbread dish, greatly resembles the Italian piadina. (On menus in San Marino, you’ll alternately see piada and piadina —or the plural piade and piadine .)

As for where to eat, many of the best restaurants in San Marino offer not only the local cuisine, but sweeping views of the surrounding landscape too. Ristorante Spingarda overlooks the western side of San Marino, where the land just rolls endlessly into the horizon. The restaurant prides itself on a zero-kilometer approach to its cuisine, using only products like wheat, milk, and wine from San Marino or the lands that border it. For a good time, Guaita will keep you entertained well into the night; their extensive piadine menu is the perfect pairing with its music and DJs. But if you’re in-and-out of San Marino, the piadine at takeout joint Strapizzati come hot, fresh, and fast. And on your way back to Rimini, be sure to stop by Antica Enoteca Giulianelli in Dogana, right on the border with Italy , where you can pick up wine and other grocer goods, including a Torta Tre Monti to take home.

The Guardie di Rocca, literally Guards of the Rock, who patrol the borders of San Marino

Most tourists just hop in and out when seeing San Marino, making the days in town busy and lively. But if you book a hotel for even just a night, you can really maximize your sightseeing when you don’t have to rush elsewhere: Go hard with the hikes to the towers of Monte Titano, scaling the hilly city, and have as much Sammarinese food as you can get—then crash right where you are at the end of the evening. The City of San Marino has a fair number of options, like the Hotel Titano, right behind Piazza della Libertà. There’s also the Grand Hotel San Marino down the road, where it has a restaurant L’Arengo , open for lunch and dinner, with fantastic offerings of Sammarinese wines.

On top of the comfort a hotel stay offers, walking through San Marino on a quiet night is a real treat. When the sun has set and all is quiet, when most of the visitors have returned to Rimini, Bologna, or even Florence , stroll through those stone streets and take in that delightful stillness in this old city, this ancient and proud nation. It’s as close as you might get to time travelling in the oldest country in the world.

First published on Condé Nast Traveler US

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This Phoenix restaurant was named among the best new hotel dining options in the world

Conde Nast Traveler released its list of The Best New Hotel Restaurants in the World on June 4, and a Phoenix restaurant made the cut.

As a companion piece to their list of best hotels in 2024, Conde Nast editors decided to focus on the hotel restaurants, stating that "we rarely spotlight the spaces  within  the hotel that make the property shine."

Thea, the rooftop restaurant at restauranteur Sam Fox's The Global Ambassador was listed shoulder to shoulder with restaurants in hotels in Paris, London, New York and Mallorca. The hotel, which also made it to the Hot List of the best new hotels of 2024 , opened in December 2023 and is is Fox's first foray into hotel business.

Thea's Mediterranean menu reflects a collection of favorite dishes from Fox's travels to Europe, with a focus on lighter fare like Burrata di Bufala ($18) served with pesto, milled tomato, pistachio dukkah and arugula. Or a collection of dips ($13 each) like whipped ricotta with stone fruit and urfa honey and hummus topped with olive oil, za’atar and green zhoug. Mains include sushi ($18-24), flatbreads ($17-24), pasta ($26-38) and grilled meats like steak, lamb chops and salmon ($38-87).

The dish that wowed Conde Nast's editors was the Spring Tabbouleh Salad ($18), made with ancient grains, stone fruit, pomegranate seeds, snap peas, cucumber, mint and a preserved lemon vinaigrette. They called it "fresh and flavorful."

Details : 4360 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix. 480-800-2211,  globalambassadorhotel.com .

'This is what I love:' Meet Crystal Kass, the Phoenix pastry chef making Arizona history

Reach the reporter at   [email protected] . Follow @banooshahr on   X, formerly Twitter .

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In Armenia, Chefs and Restaurateurs Are Putting Heritage and History on the Plate

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I first tasted lavash in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia , at a restaurant named after the flatbread. Bakers rolled out huge ovals of thin dough, slapped them against the wall of a clay oven called a tonir, and, after leaving them inside for a minute, pulled out delightfully blistered bread. Pliable and paper-thin, lavash in Armenia is ubiquitous and versatile: For lunch, it can be stuffed with cheese and pickled vegetables; for dinner, it is often served with a barbecued meat called khorovats, the smell of which perfumes almost every street corner in Yerevan. Mine came with an omelet topped with blades of tarragon—an ideal summer brunch.

Though lavash was added to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List a decade ago, Armenian food has yet to break onto the global scene in the same way as the cuisine of neighboring Georgia. There are similarities, but Armenian fare is distinctly its own, combining the flavors of the South Caucasus (think heady wines, preserved local fruits, and exceptional dairy) with recipes from Armenians who have long resided in nearby Iran , Syria , and Lebanon .

Breakfast at Lavash, a popular spot for morning meals

The staff at Aregak bakery in Gyumri, Armenia’s second most populous city

To taste this heritage, stroll through Yerevan to find cafés with herb-filled flatbreads called jingalov hats (“bread” in Armenian, pronounced “hots”); bakeries with gata, a cake that pairs well with afternoon coffee; and bars with complex red wines from the nearby Ararat Valley. And on every table, always fresh lavash.

“Making lavash is a form of worship, a spiritual experience,” says Artak Zargaryan, whom I meet at a restaurant called Tsaghkunk in a village of the same name. He developed the place as part of The Cradle, an NGO that restores ancient Armenian sites. A few years ago nearby excavations uncovered a small stone-built home from the 18th century with two original tonir ovens, now kept behind glass for protection. There is a sense of sanctity to the dark, quiet space. “When women baked here so many years ago, they would have also been praying,” Zargaryan says. “Now, guests can come and see this place to sit in silence and feel the history.”

History and food are entwined, too, at Zanazan , near Lake Sevan, where chefs are bringing back dishes that were lost during the 1915 Armenian genocide across the border in Turkey. These include lentil kufta; bulgur with local spices; and spas, a soup made with shelled wheat, onion, and mint. There are also dishes that recall Persian cooking, like pumpkin borani. To feast here—sitting outdoors and watching the vineyards turn amber as the sun sets—is a divine experience, made even more so by the scent of lake-caught trout cooking over charcoal.

Armenia's food scene has grown more diverse in recent years thanks to chefs and restaurateurs from Lebanon and Syria. Many Lebanese Christians, linked to Armenia by ethnicity, religion, and language, have come to Yerevan (some say “returned” to the homeland) to flee Lebanon's economic collapse. They're joined by Armenian Syrians who have fled the war in Syria. Together, these groups have been opening kitchens and cafés that celebrate their heritage on the plate.

At the Syrian restaurant Zeituna , in Yerevan's central Missak Manouchian Park, diners spill into a courtyard where tables bear the finest falafel imaginable; lahmajoun with pomegranate sauce; freekeh and lamb topped with cashews and almonds; and little open-cased meat pies called semsek—all preferably washed down with ice-cold Jermuk, the local mineral water. Over on Tamanyan Street, at a low-key place called Beirut that has sadly since closed, I eat labneh, hummus, and the red pepper and walnut dip muhammara, scooping it all up with, as ever, lavash. Sitting outside and watching the street's crowds, I recall an Armenian saying Zargaryan shared with me: “To eat is to eat bread.”

Inside Vostan, housed in a 19th-century building designed by the architect Vasili Mirzoyan

Where to eat

At Lavash , the eponymous flatbread is the star. Diners can observe bakers prepare dozens by the minute in the tonir or sit on the terrace watching passersby on Yerevan's Tamanyan Street .

Syrian home cooking meets Armenian dishes infused with Middle Eastern flavors at Zeituna , a verdant space in Old Yerevan.

Heritage Armenian fare like khorovats and gata find a fitting home in a historic building at Vostan , near Yerevan's Republic Square.

Café Merhatsy is run by Beirutis near the Yerevan Cathedral is a must for a Levantine salad called fattoush.

In Gyumri, Armenia's second largest city, Aregak is an inclusive bakery, which proudly employs disabled youths and their mothers, has excellent bread and pastries.

In the village of the same name, Tsaghkunk is a former canteen for Soviet workers and serves traditional cuisine with a modern twist, like amich (stuffed poultry) with bulgur and preserved fruits.

Caroline Eden's latest book is Cold Kitchen: A Year of Culinary Journeys . This article appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of  Condé Nast Traveler.  Subscribe to the magazine   here .

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